That was my intention to share results. To up load the document they send me with the results. If this works out, it would be interesting to see the arguments line up no matter what the results show us. It's the nature of things.

 

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9...eniawankel.jpg

 

That looks edited. But yeah the info is well known.

 

Quick review: I changed from stock spec dino (installed by dealership that sold me the car a week ago) to M1 0w40 (European blend) along with an M1 filter and was very surprised to notice a smoother idle and generally smoother power delivery. Car also warms up a bit faster. Based on used oil analyses I've read through on this forum, coupled with the good initial results I've experienced, I would highly recommend this oil! And it's readily available OTS at any autoparts store.

 

Nice its a very good oil. Just keep in mind its still not a replacement for regular oil changes. Not many oils can take the rotary heat. I just switched from M1 0W-40 to Rotela T6 and will be posting the UAO results.

 

I ran T6 in my old JCW Cooper and several bikes - good oil. I just didn't see as much feedback on it on the forum so opted for M1 for my first change. I intend to top off every week and do full changes at 3,000 mile intervals. These cars are awfully easy to wrench on.

Next stop: resonated mid pipe and AEM or RB intake, flywheel, and AP tune.

 

Good luck with mobil1.I'd never use that oil unless i had a sohn adapter.
The reason can be found on this board, with a search.

Besides, it's a shitty oil that doesn't really protect the bearings at high rpms.

 

I searched quite a bit and couldn't find what you are referring to - care to point me in the right direction?

In my experience with many other high performance cars - M5's, M3's specifically - it's a great oil. And a lot of people would find trouble with your contrarian dogmatism on the subject.

 

I can tell you that I liked Mobil1 on piston engines as well, untill a friend that races lotus cars in the uk told me that most team drastically reduced the number of in-season engine rebuilds after switching to other makes. Of course a road car has other needs but the bearings on a 13b msp might be a cause of concern, especially with the stock oil pressure regulator.

Search for posts made by rotarygod that included the word mobil 1 and valvoline together

 

There is nothing out there that supports his theory, it's just a personal opinion, so don't bother searching for it. Look at the used oil analysis threads and look at the Mobil1 reports and come to your own conclusion.

 

Opened engines aside nope, nothing to support my theories. I already posted about them as well years ago but i value RG's opinion above mine.

 

Thanks 9K

 

Considered switching from T6 to M1 0w40, but I guess ill be sticking to T6 as its a few dollars less and there's no real benefit of M1 over T6 I've figured from reading. I've read Rotella and most other diesel oils are now being produced with less ZDDP and zinc additives to be more Eco friendly.

Anyone here use any sort of ZDDP oil additives to boost Zinc levels in their oil for better lubrication? I'm considering a few off the shelf additives that claim their "Zinc substitutes" since I can't really find Zinc additives alone.

 

T6 has the coveted JASO cert, which is why I ran it in one of my triumph race motors (wet clutch). It's a fantastic oil. Had I known it was cool to run in the RX-8 I would have used it instead of M1. I literally have gallons of it in the garage...

 

I sent both in for testing and the Rotella T6 did very well. Others have tested it as well and it has done great.

 

I have a Sohn adapter installed. I run Amsoil Saber pro synthetic 2 cycle oil in the tank and run Amsoil 10w-40 Signature in the crankcase.

 

It would be really intresting to see your UOA tests. I wonder how the Amsoil is holding up.

 

To be honest I've never checked my UOA's. I just change it at 3000 miles and go on. Who do you used to test your oil? Do they send a kit or something?

 

Blackstone labs, 25 bucks and they send you a kit in the mail.

 

They send you the kit for free, the 25 is mailed with the sample.

 

How does fuel react within oil of a crankcase when cooled? Does it eventually float on top like it does on water? If the oil system is closed, how can the fuel escape even if it does evaporate? Would it be beneficial if you have fuel leaking into your oil to leave the oil cap off overnight on occasion to allow the fuel to evaporate and dissipate?

 

RotartyG, when you say that gasoline is just dirty dirty stuff that doesn't burn fast enough, how does that correlate to the recommendation of using Premium gas in rotaries to avoid pre-combustion due to higher octane having a higher flash point? Also, what are your thoughts on the use of diesel oil like Rotella, which has a higher concentration of detergents which would help clean the combustion chamber via the OMP injections on a non-SOHN mod car?

 

I've always run Castrol 10w40 and Rotella 15w40. I can't always change at 3k on the dot so I've leaned mostly to Rotella the past couple of years since getting my reman installed. Pep Boys was out of Rotella yesterday, so I made the jump to Mobil 1 0w40, on my reman w/ 22k. The car seems to be very happy after the change, but I find that with every change no matter the oil.

I like the Rotella for the extra detergents, but I'm always wary about not pushing the RPMs high until the oil is at operating temp. which I try to set at 10 minutes of driving since I don't have a guage installed. What I'm hoping is that the Mobil Euro will provide extra protection at cold. Can anyone tell me how much quicker Mobil 1 0w40 gets up to safe operating temp for high rpms vs. Rotella 15w40?

My inclination moving forward is to do a blend of the two oils. That way I have the detergents from the Rotella to help reduce carbon buildup, while also providing protection in the opposing viscosity breakdowns since synth and dino oils breakdown at opposite ends of the cold/hot spectrum.

 

If it won't evaporate out at 200*F under a slight PCV vacuum, then leaving the oil cap off, cold, won't do it.

(also, the octane rating of gas has zero to do with it's flashpoint, but that's a different rant)

 

^^ this thread isn't about making sense ...