wise up on your oil technology doofus, ...then come and tell me about it!

 

From time to time there are morons like you, shows up, post a bunch of crap. then finally disappears. Either got banned, or disappeared cuz they were just full of crap with nothing to back up.

lets see how far you can go. enlighten me with your superior knowledge plz ? (or u dont have any?)

 

Yes...
You should read and use a lower profile when making assertions you don't even care to explain further.

 

Dont waste your time my friend.

He is probably rxrocks, trying to come back for more "banned" title

 

He's from Malaysia, I doubt thats him.

 

If his ip is from Malaysia, what about Onyx57 ?

 

A non-zero amount would be nice.

 

Good to see this thread has made zero progress in the 7 years it's been going.

 

I thought all the morons lived in NYC...

 

OOooooo WHAT A COME BACK? OMG ! Should I cry ???

yep, no doubt, its the know-it-all Onxy

Took u long enough to figure how to open another account. sad.

Time for another ban?

 

could be rxrocks......or anyone else that disagrees with the almighty nycgps.

 

You can doubt me, or anybody. but you'll need facts to back it up.

you got nothing. Full of ****. as simple as that.

what a waste of everybody's time.

So Long sux0rz !

 

wow,

missed the last stuff.

simple comment. the teams that race the rotarys on track. premix..

kinda simple..

beers

 

I wrote a nice insulting reply here, but I deleted it, he's so dumb I don't think he would have read it all, too many words with more than 4 letters.
So how about you just go away?

 

So after reading 18 pages of the 51 I dont feel like reading the rest. I dont use synthetic because thats what my owners manual says I should do. But based on this thread mazda only says that because they haven't experimented with it yet. Does synthetic oil really actually help? I was thinking that pre-mixing with synthetic oil was good enough....

Any insight that may help me understand this better?

 

I ran RP for a few months - I don't think there's anything wrong with doing it - but I switched back to conventional oil because I was changing oil so frequently I didn't think I got any value out of RP.

My logic is that since crankcase oil is injected into the motor, the most important thing you can do (to prevent carbon buildup) is to change your oil often, so why bother running synthetic?

Now, if I were doing lots of track days or running forced induction or other extreme duty, such as extended stop-and-go driving in a hot climate on congested freeways, I'd probably run synthetic and change it often.

So, my conclusion, right or wrong, is to run a quality conventional oil that is on the thick side (I'm running Rotella 15w40 right now) and premix with something good, like Idemitsu or Redline.

 

I tried to read into this thread but there is soo much data, so tl;dr.

I'm going to be rebuilding my motor (75k mi and compression loss) in a few months. I was thinking about switching to synthetic oil, specifically Royal Purple. I also plan on hitting more HDPE's as well as getting a daily driver. I am already premixing with Idemitsu.

Would it be beneficial to switch to synthetic after my rebuild? Or should i stick to regular oil (Was running 5w20, going to use 5w30 for the next oil change)?

 

I would use a 5w-40, RP fades after about 2k miles, it did for me. 5w-20 too thin!

 

Just to add to the discussion, my last oil change at a MAZDA dealer, the receipt shows they used Castrol GTX 5w30. so I figure if I use the same oil that a MAZDA dealer used I should be fine if there are any warranty issues. I also log all maintenance at mymazda.com.

I don't track/race and the car is completely stock. I "premix" using Lucas UCL.

In our 79 RX-7 I use Castrol GTX 20w50 and "premix" with UCL and it has over 160,000 miles on the orginal engine and it still runs strong.

 

Yeah we have a local member here who is a tech and the dealer he works at use Mobil Clean 2000 or some ****, and the dealer I frequent uses Castrol, so each dealer uses what it chooses amongst the available Dino oils.

This was on the tank behind the service bay

 

Ironically enough 5W20 wouldn't be too think if all you did all day was keep the engine at high rpms and loads such as on a track. It's daily driving where the engine is held at lower rpms but at higher loads such as accelerating from a stop that is harder on the oil. It sounds very backwards but your oil needs change with rpm and load. This is one of the revelations I had while talking about oils with a Castrol engineer at work one day. There is no one right weight oil for all situations and higher rpms. Higher operating temperatures also don't need thicker oils. They need thinner. The hardest thing you can do to your oil is to lug the engine along in 6th gear at about 1500 rpm cruising down the street. This puts more load on the oil than full throttle at 8K rpm! For daily drivers that don't ever get up to those rpms, a thicker oil is recommended. Ever wonder why diesel engines typically run thicker oils than their gasoline counterparts? Take a look at their rpm range. These are low rpm engines intended to be used at high loads.

For normal street use a XX-40 may be a good choice. The only way an oil is too thick is if it can't get to all of the locations that it needs to. A sign of this would be seen on stationary gears. If they have little to no wear on top of the teeth but the bottom of the valleys are worn, it had too thick of an oil. You really don't ever see this as being an issue though.

All oils feel different after a couple thousand miles. I've noticed the same thing in oils of different weights and brands. When I tried Pennzoil 5W20, it felt smooth for about only the first thousand miles. Havoline 20W50 felt good for about 2000. No oil feels the same after several thousand miles.

 

RG - I think there's two issues being crossed here.

For lower rpm chugging along, I understand that you need more wear protection - hence the higher weight oil. For high rpm engine racing, you want the engine oil to be as lubricative as possible - hence the lower weight oil.

But what about the oil shear values? I understand that synthetics recover from shear much better than dino. However, I think most people in this thread are calling for heavier oil not based on lubrication, but based on the engine oil shearing at higher temps in our engine.

I don't know how true that is, but that is what I think is of significance amongst a lot of the people posting here.

 

Don't pay attention to bottle numbers so much, after 1000 miles it means little.

 

Oil shear is not only affected by oil weight. Formulation has the largest role. It is a mistake to assume that a thicker oil will shear less. Not necessarily.

 

Alright - thanks for that info!