https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...50157&posted=1

Most if not all engine oils are suitable for temps around -20-30c.

 

rxrocks,

I don't know if swoope and nycgps in particular provided specific documented facts in this increasingly galvanized thread, but I think you're too hung up on documentation by "authorities". You're really stuck on the idea of 5W-20 being the be all, end all, due to it's documented recommendation by MUSA. But what of the recommendations for the rest of the world of 5W-30 or higher? Obviously, the U.S.A. isn't a frozen continent unto itself, so if Europe is recommended to use a thicker weight oil, it stands to good reason that, yes indeed, 5W-20 is recommended due to strict emissions and 100k mile guarantee and MPG reasons in the U.S., despite the fact that it's not what's best for the Renesis engine.

Really, you need to stop blindly trusting documentations and recommendations from corporations and governments as though they have your best personal interests in mind. Humanity is basically evil, and when corporations and governments have consolidated and protected power, they become corrupt. That's not to say that they're rotten to the core, (although they may be), but it's to say; "Love your country, but question your government". In my opinion, a Patriot questions his government, whereas a Nationalist follows it blindly.

 

Troll

Someone shut this idiot down.

 

Whew! For the "record"; as per the owner's manual: 5W-20 is recommended, where synth/semi synth is not recommended.

Since the temp range of 5W-20 (-20 to 120F) covers most of North America, it works for me. Higher temps could use 5W-30 or 10W-30.

Some reading material that may be of interest. http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

 

 

wow,

great info, those links and the owners manual.. who would look in that place?

here is my take.

in 120,000 miles with two motors i have run one all syn and one on dino..

premix on both with lots of different stuff.. so if you have a question about something that works or does not work send me a pm..

second motor is coming out soon.. btw, neither has failed.. both were running strong..

hey, but what do i know?

beers

 

You see swoope ? Like I said, We're wasting our breaths on a complete retard.

Obviously he has a reading problem.

As for the "Show me proof that the japanese is for stock engines"

lmao.

gg, yeah now you can go die with your full of ****.

if you dont understand Japanese, thats yours problem. I know what Im reading and for the record, yes they're selling it at ANY MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR STOCK RUNNING RX-8 YOU STUPID FUXKING IDIOT.

God ...

oh one more thing, my manual never said a word about "no no" synthetic, so you failed.

and to make 5w20 possible, there HAS to be Synthetic stock in there, again, you dont know **** about oil, failed again.

You simply ignored all the research people has done to Rotary engine for the past 40+ years. and Mazda "borrowed" a lot of ideas from the community. but I guess you dont understand those either.

Like I said, Talk about "Mazda recommended" only when you perform all work on your car @ a Mazda dealer 4 life, otherwise. Please stfu.

Why am I wasting time talking to a retard ... **** ....

 

So how bout that 0-50 Oil? like where can I get some

 

Eneos

Amazon sells it. cheaper if u get lower grade like 5w30. the 0w50 cost about the same as Red line's 20w50

 

I'm trying to find 0 for the winter months. I'm going to look around at some auto stores and see what I can find.

 

I'm still waiting for my results.


Also, does anyone know if there are any test or data that compare Mobil 1 and Royal Purple? I will wait to get the results fo my GC 0W-30 but I shopped around a bit today and found Mobile 1 and RP 0W-40 are pretty available but the RP is $4.00 more a quart. I just question if it's that much better than Mobile 1 or GC 0W-30. But if the GC 0W-30 is truly really a 40 then I will stick with it. Freakin' test results take forever.

 

^What is the margin of error?

 

Why everyone keep typing "Mobile 1" ?

Anyway, People have been saying that Mobil1 will degrade to something like 20w or lower after 1000 miles. not sure. I never test mobil1.

I think to get a more "accurate" test, send a "fresh" sample of Brand A out first, get the results back, drain & fill the car once, run the engine for maybe 10 minutes until it warms up, drain and fill again, warm up, drain and fill again. Run it for 1000 miles. drain it, do the same from Brand "B".

its gonna be expensive () but this is probably the only way to get a "better/more accurate" results.

 

I have put alot of thought into what would be needed for a true oil test will need to really solve alot of these questions, and would love to see it happen...but I don't think anyone has the ~$100k+ it would probably cost.

 

there WILL be dumbasses like rxrocks who just gonna ignore any facts and be like "MAZDA SAID THIS MAZDA SAID THAT !" at all time.

 

Royal Purple doesn't release any information directly about their additive package as I've tried asking them about their ZDDP content in the past. I was pretty much told they don't release numbers because they didn't want people to get hung up on them.

German Castrol isn't a 40w, it's a very high 30w oil. Since there is a range by which an oil falls into a particular viscosity rating you can have oils which are close to 20w or closer to 40w but still considered a 30w.

I wouldn't believe what people say oil does. I've seen UOA's showing that Mobile1's (did I get it right?) 0w-40 tends to lose it's viscosity and dip into the 30w range after about 3,000 miles. I've not tested that oil on my own car so take that with a grain of salt.

In terms of testing oil the only good results you're going to get is running it to at least 3,000 miles. After 3,000 miles is when you start to see big differences between oils in terms of any viscosity change and wear on the additive package.

The testing process will take some time. Just do your normal change intervals and simply get a sample when you change your oil.

 

Hey Flash how much do you think shipping time, etc. effects the results? Also, my sample was taken warm (not hot) so does that matter you think?

 

From the information that blackstone provided me there isn't any effect in regards to shipping time. The main thing is to make sure the container it's in is sealed as that will preserve the sample.

Whether the oil is warm or not I don't think matters either. The main thing is to not sample the first stuff coming out of the pan as it will likely carry anything that was settled at the bottom with it skewing the results.

Let it drain for a few seconds and then grab a sample.

 

One of the things I like about RP is thier claim that their additives form a film on metals that provides protection above and beyond typical hydrodynamic lubrication. My hope is that this will help reduce seal wear on our unique engines.

I don't know if RP's claims are true, but this is an interesting article that seems to validate RP:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

I'm not saying the above is a definitive test of the oil's effectiveness within an engine (clearly it is not) but, again, it seems to validate that RP's additives do work.

 

I also just read some UOA's a guy posted using redline and the wear was twice as much as it was compared to his UOA's when he was using Mobil 1. This was on a C6 Vette.

 

First, in the pre 2009 manuals(maybe 08), there is nothing about synthetic oil. Second, the manual says 5w20 recommended not 5w20 required. So how does this prove anything?

Basic english will get you a long way my friend.

 

Can you provide a link?

 

Yeah let me find it. It's in the Bob The Oil Guy forums (which has the worst BB software ever).

 

He also misses the part of "not recommended"

not recommended != prohibited

this dumb n00b has a lot to learn.

Ahh I know he gonna be like Hey NY 11,xxx post hurrary! Thats his best come back, seriously

 

Guys, please tone down the attacks.