my point is, I can get the same Red Line oil online @ much lower prices.

I just got myself 3 gallons of 10w40 couple weeks ago, used 1 gallon on my last oil change already , for like what, maybe 70 bux ? 3 gallons = 12 quarts. get it from summitracing or amazon. about the same price. sometimes one is cheaper than the other. check back often

 

Wooh post #800!

Ok guys I have read most of the thread and am still slightly confused on something things. I am getting my 30k service done tomorrow for my '04 Touring AT with 40k miles, at a local Rotary shop (Rick's Rotary Performance). I was thinking about changing the oil to Redline 5w-30 synthetic and changing the tranny fluid to Royal Purple ATF or Redline ATF. Will these be fine for a daily driver? I don't want to shorten the life of the car. I do some spirited drives, but not very often. The other fluids I will just let them be changed to Mazda's factory specs. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

I've been using Royal Purple 5w-30. I don't know much about oil, but once in a blue moon I poke around the BITOG forums to see what info I can pick up. Today i found they don't seem to like RP too much at all.

Some blame it on a very vocal minority who like to trash RP. Others point out that RP shears very, very quickly. What is the truth? I used to like BITOG, but today it really reads like an Amsoil vendor forum, and not an unbiased source at all. I know Jax hangs out there, maybe he can explain what is going on? I started using RP since some of the well respected (and knowledgeable) folks here use it. Now I'm wondering if I should change, and to what?

Another question from my day at BITOG: After Amsoil gets recommended 50 times (by people who conveniently sell it), they also say Pennzoil Platinum is a good choice. It's cheap too. Anyone here have an opinion on this oil?

 

Use Redline.

Amsoil makes good oil too.

I cant say about RP cuz IMO its really good oil, I switched to use Redline cuz for just little bit more, I would rather get Redline.

I wouldnt use Pennzoil Platinum tho. for the same price I pay, I can almost get myself some Redline. Pennzoil is hydrocracked oil. grp III, not a true synthetic

 

BITOG suffers from the same problem every other forum suffers from and that's personal bias. As with every other forum most of the members don't really know much. There are always the few that do and then there are always those that appear to know what they are talking about who really don't. If you are on there to learn, it's hard to tell who the smart people really are and who those are who think they are smart. There is just as much lousy information there on oils as there is any other forum. There is alot of crap rotary information on rotary forums. There is alot of crap Honda information on Honda forums. You get the idea. BITOG may be an oil forum but by no means is it a be all end all source for good oil information. It's good for some. I'm sure those guys would throw a fit if they read this but tough. It's true. Most are idiots. Some are smart. That's life.

 

Word!

 

ThecdnRX8

Ish, your just doing 300km... thats what I do in winter, I thought I had it bad with 350km per 50l.

What do you do in the winter?

BTW, to stay on topic... I've switched to Esso Extra XD-3 full synthetic 0w-40 and so far, nothing bad to say about it, due for another change, got a couple of 4l jugs for 22$ each at Wall Mart.

Does its job. I thinned it slightly as I was using the 0w-30 Castrol Syntec to top up, but its been good so far.

Im thinking of running that Esso oil all year long. No reason not to in my case.

 

Found this reading around some forum...

http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts...e_renesis.html
this has been around some time.

says its 100% fully synthetic 0w-30 based from Polyalphaolefin(pao), and something about specially formulated for renesis to prevent gas-seal failure due to carbon deposit or build up. I guess it has some strong cleaners.

The bottom picture says, left other brand synthetic oil, and the right sythe-renesis oil.

Pretty expensive though.

 

Interesting I also note that there is a Mazdaspeed 5w40 for the RX-8 as a Sports OIL...scroll down.. also a 10w40 for RX-7
http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts/oil/03.html

 

Also note in this link the correct meaning for the grade of oil...
the W in oil numbers meaning the Winter Temp (C)..
http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts/oil/index.html

 

it says the MSsports oil A-spec 5w40 is targeted for reciprical engines only, motors with pistons. and on the bottom it says not for use with diesel or rx8, funny how they specifically say "RX8s", not like all rotary engines. bummer

this has nothing to do with synthetic oil but i just got my oil changed today and I went from the usual 5w20s to 5w30s, and the car seems to run cooler.
The reason I say this is because my mazsport low temp fan switch barely turned-on on a 100+*F day, when its pretty much on all the time.
The weight must of absorebed more heat.

 

Thanks for that, you can read Japanese, it is interesting that the RX-7 REW uses the 10W40. IMO it would also be fine in a RENESIS.
In passing I have always thought that your rated 5W20 would not be acceptable in high temp days, where a W30 or W40 would.
Your experience goes to prove this, I will also go out and confirm what I have always thought a few years back with all the engine failures (particularly Nevada) in your hot summer was due in to this grade of oil, and I still believe a W40 is better than a W30 at temps around 105+F.

 

Hey guys, I'm new here. I just picked up an 06 RX8 with 26k miles on it. The warranty says I need to use 5w-20 but this seems stupid to me. Nevertheless, I just picked up a quart of RP synthetic 5w-20. Is there any way to use 5w-30 but not void the warranty? Like change the oil a month before service is due? Also what's a recommended synthetic I can pick up at O'Reilly or something? Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Qoute - R.G. - "There is just as much lousy information there on oils as there is any other forum. There is alot of crap rotary information on rotary forums."

But when you get oil FOR rotaries info on BITOG, the REAL crap comes out.
When oil myth and apex seal mis-information meet, look out......

S

 

RP 5w-30 is a very good choice. Synthetic will not void your oil unless Mazda were to prove that it specifically caused the failure. The dealer won't know that your using synthetic unless they test your oil. The purple color doesn't last.

 

This might be a little off the subject but I thought I ask anyways. I've looked through all the post here about synthetic oils and seems that everyone uses about the same preferred brands. But I haven't seen anyone use brands like: Trust, Greddy, HKS, Speedmaster. I've use Trust F2 in my previous Accord...would you guys recommend using these in our 8? Since I'm in Taiwan and it get very hot and I have a failing engine with compression problems do you think I can use 5W50 or 5W 60?

 

I will tell you why, thats simply because all oils you've mention is NOT easily available in the North America Market or its simply not worth it, I'll tell you why

Trust/Greddy - Rebranded from probably Nippon, or Idemitsu ?
HKS - Same as above.
SpeedMaster - Oil in Japan.

You can use 5w50, but make sure you ride her(your car) HARD !

 

I have switched to Esso Extra XD-3 full synthetic 0W-40 for the last 2 oil changes and havent noticed any change in fuel economy at all.

Maybe something you want to give a try, especially with the colder months comming.

Which 0W-30 where you considering ? Castrol ?

 

wow this thread goes back to beg. of 04? lol

 

If using 50 or 60 will MPG suffer a lot, or it depends on the setup of ever car?

 

i have a question, my rx8 was recently dynoed i have an 04 grand touring 6spd, and i got chassis dynoed by a dyna pack protable one, (yes i know they are not that accurate[/i]) but, i lost a significant amount of power. I saw online on my fone at myrotarycar.com stock was running 178.4 hp, and 134.4 torque. My numbers were quite dismal with 148 hp to 128 torque. There is oil in my intake filter, but when i took out my intake filter i was still running consistant numbers. I was told to get a compression check done, but i was told it is probably not the case, i was also told that my CAT's could be bad and are impeding flow into my exhaust so i might need a whole new cat and a catback, but i am still not able to figure out how oil is going into my intake. Can anybody help me out? Tips? Advice? I ran synthetic in my car but i called up a mazda dealership nearby and they said "run regular oil, its a rotary, just run normal 5w-20" and i told them that one of their techs told me that i could run my car on regular but the guy at the dyno said just run premium, and that I'll get better curves and it'll unclog my injectors. Heres the low down on my car.

2004 Mazda RX8 6MT
stock, except for clutchmasters FX100 clutch.
Regular gas, and synthetic (which i plan on changing to regular)

 

 

the service guy doesn't know what he is talking about

and u should stop going to that the dyno cuz the guy there is full of **** as well

oil in intake? I should really take u to search, but Im in good mood today, oil in intake means the guy who changed ur oil OVERFILLED it. drain it, clean it, and u'll be fine.

 

the bottom pic saids

*left* using Full synthetic oil u can buy on the street

*right* using Synthe-Renesis Full Synthetic oil.




AHHH NO U DID NOT SAY THAT ! MAZDA SAID NO TO SYNTHETIC OIL ! THAT PICTURE IS FAKE ! THAT OIL IS FAKE ! AHHHHH !!!!!

Hey, whats this link down there ?

http://www.mazda.co.jp/service/parts...e_renesis.html

Its PAO based. which means Group IV. and its 0w-30 based (whoever said 5w-20 is good enough please come out)

I knew this engine oil long time ago, but its like japan only product

 

I don't know a dealership that says no to synthetic but it'd make for some great stories if those that do would make wallet size prints of that picture and whip it out for their service managers.