ASH8

And AFAIK was installed in the US, not Hiroshima....
Anyone want a new free Mazda OEM filter and box.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Speedsource uses the OEM airfilter on their GrandAm GT cars. I've seen a stack of them setting on a shelf at Daytona this past year. They do not use the same air box however.

There is a gap, unless you cut a piece of the VFAD off then it seals up nice.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Or unless you buy a $6 4" dia rubber plumbing adapter which matches the RB duct perfectly and to the stock airbox with a little effort. The air ducts come for sale in partouts pretty often, so you can get by for ~$90.

SARRAS

Yep I'll take it - tell me how much to get it sent to Sydney

gwilliams6

It does make a difference to have the Mazdaspeed CAI, and have it fully warranty covered.

It actually makes a greater improvement than any ram air intake. the ram air intakes are short and still get their air from warmer engine bay area. While the CAI have longer pipe and get their air from cooler air OUTSIDE of the warmer engine bay. The ram air has slightly quicker response with shorter air route, but the CAI will ultimately make better horsepower with cooler air.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

so do u mind to explain what is the different between stock and AEM/MS CAI then ?

if what you said is true (which mostly are) then What exactly is the point of having MS/AEM other than sound ?

gwilliams6

The stock air box uses a much baffled (for noise reduction) route into a paper filter (not as efficient with breathing) and the air it intakes is full of the warmer air inside the engine area. The AEM/MS CAI provides a longer, but straight path to much cooler intake air from OUTSIDE the warm engine bay (the air comes from in front of the engine bay, and from a lower position) (remember hot air rises). And the air comes through a much more efficient high performance wire mesh fabric air filter) . The engine breathes better, the air charge is cooler and denser and therefore combustion is improved, providing a gain in performance and even a slight gain in fuel mileage from the engine burning fuel more efficiently.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

You do realize that the stock system pulls air from about the same spot don't you?

gwilliams6

It is a different spot that the air is drawn from. And the CAI and its more efficient filter is at the front of this straighter pipe system in a lower cooler position.

By the time the air to the stock system has gone through its baffles, the friction has raised the air temperature, and the main part of this stock airbox with its multi-layer paper filter system is higher up and closer to the engine and its higher temperatures. So the stock system delivers quieter, but warmer air to the engine.

The CAI was specifically designed to give the engine cooler, denser air. That is its only reason to exist. Whether dyno or street or track tests, the CAI does give a horsepower and efficiency boost.

You can debate all the fine points, but the fact is that it does safely make a RX8 or Mazdaspeed3 faster. More so in the Mazdaspeed3, less so in the RX8, but still a noticeable difference in the RX8.

I own both and have driven them before and after the CAI were installed. The CAI made an instant difference. The cars perform better.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

I'll leave you to your cool-aid then. The two inches lower it sits behind the bumper and the two 90 degree bends make all the difference.

You should post your before and after dyno numbers to rub your knowledge in our faces.

rx-8ripper

Any suggestions about the weapon r intake? Or which intake is best? And what are the best things to get in the beginning for the best performance gains?

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

Has this thread told you nothing? There's a reason all the guys who have been here for awhile are all joking about it. Buy the full RB intake system or (arguably) the MS/AEM or leave it alone. Nothing else works.

Period.

gwilliams6

I have had the Mazdaspeed/CAI for years on my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition and it is been bulletproof and works well. It is a few more hp and safe for the engine. A better ignition system like the BHR (coils wires, and new plugs added at the same time) with its hotter and higher voltage spark can give a slight boost to performance of the Renesis engine. BHR is coming out with a new exhaust system that I hear may be tested to deliver 15-20hp ( I have seen no official figures from Charles of BHR yet, but he makes great stuff). A good catless aftermarket exhaust (less restrictive on the exhaust end of the Renesis) is the only other truly safe way to get more hp out of the Renesis engine which is pretty much tuned up to its limited. There are exhaust threads here, and in new owners stickies that will guide you on that. FI can be done but is risky and very expensive and will always shorten the life of your engine. FI adds greater compression to all the internal engine parts, and the Renesis is already the highest compression NA Rotary engine Mazda has made, and it was NOT designed for FI.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

I think you got answers.. I pulled the VAFD stuff off. Intake air temps dropped 10 degrees. I am still about 15 above ambient. I expect to fix that when a RB duct comes up locally.

And, yes, in Florida, the MAF read air team was a minimum of 25 degrees above ambient with the VAFD installed.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Your following the path I took 4 yrs ago. You can also pull out the barriers in the bottom of the air filter box and remove one of the screens to increase your air flow. I never measured my AIT's to check the temperature drops.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

MS CAI and I read 3-5 degrees above ambient. MY engine bay runs higher than most NA cars as well, I would look into that route. Charles always has good deals on them as well.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

@ Carbon... Where does the MS CAI intake get the air from? 3 to 5 is a great number. I am still the 15 degree range when things warm up.

shydevil

its seem to be interesting on R.B duct and stock box combo but i live in Ontario do my front lic plate will bock up the cold air duct???

Setre

I use the AEM CAI and it really worths the money... I can go faster than the guys with headers and k&n kit combined rx8's. And it looks cool... And also it really gives the power they told. A friend of mine bought the AEM CAI and BHR Ignition, he got 10 more whp from both of them at the dyno actually.

gwilliams6

Thanks for posting this. On my 40th AE RX8 I also have both the BHR ignition coils and wires, the racing nippon denso plugs ( a little better performance than the NGKs) and the Mazdaspeed/AEM CAI. I can easily tell the increase in hp but had not done a dyno test to compare whp before and after.

gwilliams6

Finally had a chance to do a dyno test with the BHR ignition and Nippon Denso Racing plugs and the Mazdaspeed/AEM CAI and got a healthy 9 whp more than my early dyno test back when car was stock.
My next hp bump will be with the new BHR exhaust system being currently tested by Charles on my buddy ' Pistonhaters' 40th anniversary edition RX8 in Arizona.

LittleAngleFromHell

Im wondering, as it is my first rx8 (2004) and my first time dealing with a CAI, if its worth upgrading my radiator, since ill be playing in that area, i was thinking might as well ? Any advice, personal experience

Thanks in advance

NotAPreppie

It won't hurt to upgrade the radiator but whether or not it's worth it depends on your budget and what you do with the car.

If you just daily drive the car and have a limited budget, BHR coils are probably a better way to spend your money.

If you track the car then cooling upgrades are VERY important.

gwilliams6

LittleAngelfromHell, I second what NotAPreppie advises. Get the BHR coils, wires and new plugs first. The BHR coils will last the lifetime of your car, no need to change every 20k-30k miles. I have almost 50k miles on my BHR kit, and still running flawlessly.
https://black-halo-racing.myshopify....nition-upgrade

But, if that radiator is original 2004 , then yes it would be wise to upgrade. A reasonably priced and quality upgrade choice is the Koyo. I have it , it performs great, and it was recommended by many other experienced RX8 owners.
http://www.importtuned.com/6512-koyo...zda_rx_8_04_08


If you haven't already, read through this thread for new owners:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

LittleAngleFromHell

Awsome ! Thanks
I've already changed the coil, plugs and wires when i firts purchsed the car, im trying to built a drift missile out of it, and was looking into Koyo Radiators (the only one i found is a V2695 36mm core for 2004-2008) from reading on the forum it fits and performe great for the price !