Code P-0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low Bank 1a
 

This is not common because most 8’s had a recall fix for the milky residue on the oil dipstick that replaced these solenoids already and it appears that the replacement ones are of better quality. I have read the sticky and all the other posts that come up when you search regarding the RX-8 code p0661, which will give you a CEL. None of them gave me direction and location enough to fix it myself. That’s not to say their not out there, just that I didn’t find them. So I am writing this as a way to help the next guy and spare them the hassle and BS I dealt with.

Code ‘P-0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low’ will usually have a 'Bank 1a' or something after it. I was originally informed that ‘Bank 1a’ referrers to the #1 rotor. Later in this thread I learned that is not true so I have edited this first post with the updated info. P0661 refers to the solenoids, but they are not rotor specific. the banks are solenoid specific. One is for your SSV, one is for your VDI, and one is for your air pump. It will make a difference in the part you work on since there are three of solenoids, all right next to each other. The code is for a valve solenoids on the intake manifold. They are not easy to get to but if you are mechanically inclined then you should have no problem. You will need to disconnect the throttle body and remove the extension manifold. This will give you access to the three valve solenoids.
From what I have learned it's a dealer item (KL01-18-741) and cost about $100. If you can find it cheaper post it here for others. The three solenoids are color coated Blue, White and Black. The mechanic at my dealer stated that the valve solenoid that corresponds with ‘P-0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Low Bank 1a’ is the White one. But he is also the one who told me that the banks were rotor specific so don’t take anything for granted. I hope this helps

Your timing is perfect! I've been trying to track down what this meant and although I saw other threads discussing CEL issues; Yours is the first post I've found that dealt directly with this particular issue.

Manythanks!

BTW: Here's a link to a PDF Shop Manual that illustrates the location of said valves relative to the intake. Between this and the information you posted; It should be easier to keep the service manager honest .( a forlorn hope at best but who knows?)

http://www.mazdarx8.org/wp-content/u...ine-Manual.pdf

your welcome

bla bla bla bla blab.....

Thanks for the link. I haven’t been able to get my printout in a small enough form to upload it to this post, but I'm still working on it.
Just a little something to think about,,, since the solenoid is hooked up to a vacuum line it would be prudent to check the line for any crack or breakage and to also check the electrical connections as well before purchasing one and replacing it.

here is the parts print out I got from the dealer. it shows the valve selonoids in relation to the rest of the parts in the manifold.

Thanks again. I've already traced the vacuum lines and electrical connections to the farthest extent possible short of dis-assembly ( currently living in a downtown hi-rise condo with sufficient underground parking to accommodate 1 car & 1 motorcycle ; I already get disapproving looks whilst cleaning the cold-air intake filter at the wash rack).

Although I found nothing. That doesn't preclude the possibility that I've missed it. Potential causes remain: 1). Vacuum leak, 2). Bad electrical connection , 3). Bad Actuator, & 4). Bad Solenoid.

Intuitively speaking , the 'low voltage' code implies problems of an electrical nature.
But, I can still use this info to try and keep the Service Advisor honest.

I checked over everything as well, cleared the CEL and then parked my 8 for two days while Sandy was here. After, I ran it for two days and have not gotten another CEL. Had to park it again due to a shortage of high test here on the island. Hoping it was just the connections but only time will tell.

I am just getting this code for the first time. After reading a few posts I am thinking a little in the vacuume line might help. If the valve is sticking and functioning part time that will suck it through the valve. Any thoughts on this? I don't imagine a few drops of triflow could hurt.

go to another thread then because this one is complete BS as pointed out by nycgps

the OP is using a generic OBD2 code reader which does not provide the correct info and is the only one responsible for blah-blah-blah cluelessness

Turned out it was the solenoid. $ 300.00 parts & labor. Problem solved.

Damn, $300 for parts and labor? I paid $40 for mine and even made the DIY to removing the UIM.

Great info , after the fact. Don't know that I'd have attempted it ( limited shop facilities at the condo). Too bad the Trolls were more interested in slamming 'newbies' than offering any coherent information

In any case , I was able to use Titanium Grey's info to reduce the cost from $475-600+ ( from the DIY thread) to $300.

Too bad the Trolls were more interested in slamming 'newbies' than offering any coherent information



Alas, twas always thus.

Grace Excel.
Thanks for the help. Hope I can return it sometime.
I read your post and although the code was different I'm wondering if the part you needed was the same? And, if you can you let us know how you got your part for $40, My dealer wants way more.

Seems like my CEL is back and I will have to do more then just rescuing connections and lines. your post helps.

What other thread are you referring to?
My code reader is generic, but my dealer’s is not. Sill, thanks for that little tid bit.

from the shop manual;

DTC P0661: SSV solenoid valve control circuit low

The PCM monitors the SSV solenoid valve control voltage when the PCM turns the SSV solenoid valve off. If the control voltage is less than 5.8 V, the PCM determines that the SSV solenoid valve control circuit voltage is low.

since the PCM grounds the solenoid, this means that for some reason that the PCM is not seeing power FROM the solenoid. its a fancy way of saying there is a problem in that circuit. its either a bad SSV solenoid, connection, or wire to or from the solenoid.

thank you for this help.
it will save people from going over unneeded areas.
is the shop manual posted here or anywhere that you know of.

Angelo

do you realize you have posted 11 times in this thread?

Every Mazda I've owned in the past 5 years has had a p0660, which is closely related to this. I've yet to find out what the problem is on the other cars. It will not illuminate the MIL, but it's always there. It's annoying just knowing it's there. I'm an ASE certified tech and have yet to find an actual problem. I haven't actually checked the DTCs with anything other than a code reader, but if I do and I retrieve this code, I'll be pissed because I'll start spending a ton of time looking for a solution.

if you see Bank 1 or 2 it means you don't have a fully compatible OBD2 scanner for this vehicle, trying to assist someone with a generic scanner is an even longer shot than the typical intrawebz analysis

My dealer tech told me the banks (1+2) repersented the rotors.
And has been who I have checked everything with, I have found thus far.
Up till now I had no reason to question him.
I will have him put my 8 on his mazda scanner before going any further.
and I will look into getting the proper scanner for myself.
thanks for the info.

Just found this by accident and it really made a difference in the search results. forgive me cutting it down to fit here, but I thnk it needs to get out there more.

if it is actually P0661 it has nothing do with being either rotor

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1356924676

I found this and the pics on other threads. hope they help.

I have the new solenoid but have yet to put it in because I am not having any issues with performance, except for the CEL. my 8 still runs the way it always has. I am not getting any power loss, rough idling or flooding issues. Since I found the better way to search I have gone from finding 3 threads on the subject to 25 threads. at first I thought I was bound to find a definitive answer in one of them. what I have found is that most threads end when people find there fix but they seldom log back in to let people know if they work. I have checked all my connections and yet my code keeps clearing itself for a few days and then comes back. I'm thinking it could be a chafed or partially cut wire in the harness. as long as my 8 is still running fine I will wait till I have warmer weather to start taking it apart. I will post what ever I find

I keep getting this code recently. The majority of my valves are disconnected by the tuner due to the supercharger.

It seems to appear when I start the car after it has warmed up. when driving from a cold start it generally does not come on.

Generally the car drives fine and reuns really well at the higher rpm. Idle can be lumpy some times however good 90% of the time.

I have also noticed a odd crackling sound coming from the throttle body which is intermittent.

CEL caused by bad solenoid
 

FWIW: The problem has not resurfaced since I had the solenoid replaced @ 4 months ago.

That’s great!
Personally my CEL comes and goes with the same code periodically, and with no other symptoms like rough idling. I did notice, yesterday, that my auxiliary port in the center consol has no power. Don’t know how long it's been out or if it has anything to do with the CEL and code. I don't really think so but who knows at this point. I still have no operational symptoms so I have yet to installed the new soleniod.
Glad things worked out for you.

IMHO; It's a function of operating efficiency. I noticed no difference in drivability before or after the repair. Puts one in mind of the check engine light on 80's BMWs which came on regularly( to be reset at the dealer for a fee ) that reset tools were offered in the back pages of Road & track or Car & Driver! ;^))

All the best

Gentlemen,

There is a bunch of wrong data in this thread. You're right, P0661 refers to the solenoids, but they are not rotor specific. the banks are solenoid specific. One is for your SSV, one is for your VDI, and one is for your air pump.

And the only attachment in the thread that illustrates it is a thumbnail, WTF?

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...-locations-jpg

Your SSV opens with your secondary injectors. The VDI is an air resonance thing that kicks in way up around 7000. Air pump only fires on cold startup.

There ya have it. Nothing to do with rotors.

I suspect somewhere in the numerous posts that were pruned from this threat that these details were alluded to in one fashion or another.

Please try to be a little more responsible about what you post. Frothy / milky substance on dipstick TSB has absolutely nothing to do with your solenoids. It's primarily a vacuum routing change for a completely different set of vacuum lines.

The rotor info was straight from the dealer’s tech, so it was thought to be beyond reproach. Always good to replace wrong info with correct. Thank you. The pruning you referred to was that of other members, trolls as they were called, who ranked on us for being wrong but wouldn’t share how or why. It seemed that were more interested in slamming people then helping. It got so bad that a moderator stepped in, and is the reasons I haven't bothered with the site for help much any more.
this makes much more sense, as the boost of power at high RPMs is not consistent in my 8.

oh man, coming from someone who claim he found the "complete" solution ... but then when it's not, what to do ahhh shoot ... post removed/edited and act innocent ? :lol:

SPOON FEEEEEEEEEEEED ! PLZ !!!!! :)

That was your first mistake. Hopefully you've learned from it.

It's because you refused to do a simple task such as research real root cause. It took me 20 seconds to find the full image diagram. Someone even posted early on the actual mazda code description but you ignored it to it seems.

forget it ... he found the complete solution ... not

but his ego ... grr :)

You are partially correct in the reason nycgps began bashing my threads; it was actually on the preceding thread which was eventually deleted because he harassed every one who posted on it. However, I had spent hours researching the code, and I came up with nothing helpful. It wasn’t that I wasn’t making the effort. I was doing it wrong. But he didn’t allude to that fact so I had no clue and could not understand why he kept flaming every post. Finally I just considered him an ass and tried to ignore is posts because I recognized that he never offered any help,,, just BS and criticism. It was not until deep into this thread, and continuing to try to research that I stumbled upon the post that tells us how to search this site correctly. I also ,then, found the diagram you posted above. you will find it earlier in this thread. There were so many posts I still haven’t gotten through them all. I still haven’t found what I am looking for, and to tell you the truth, his repeated harassment stopped me from bothering with this site anymore. I log in only when I get a reply to this post. The posts a moderator removed were all his. I never claimed or deleted any claim to have a complete solution or resolution. Otherwise I wouldn’t still be looking. I posted info I have found and hope it helps some one else, that’s all. I have no problem with being wrong and welcome correction and new information. The goal was the solution. I never got there. Most people report having idling problems with this code and replacing the solenoid seems to have worked. I don’t notice the same problems so I haven’t installed it yet. Your info helps and sends me in a new direction. Not saying its not already out there. Maybe I mist it or maybe I just never found it. Anyways, thanks for taking the time to post it.

Sorry dude, I don't do "wall of text" posts. I had to stop somewhere around line 3 because my brain was starting to spasm.

You really should reconsider your stance on nycgps. He's one of our most respected members and does a lot to help out his rotary brothers.

Like any other brotherhood he does set a bar for entry.

The monitor who removed his posts from this thread said similar things about him, but still agreed that he was out of line.
He and I have gone at it since he flamed me with his first post, but mostly because he flamed any others who posted on that thread. His posts are all I have to view him with and they are no help and all flame. When he gives me something else to consider him with I will gladly do so. However, I don't think it is My opinion of him that is the problem.

Sorry for the "wall" I try to be through.
I have corrected this threads opening post to reflect the info you offered.
Thanks again.

You've got it backwards... he owes you nothing. On the other hand as an inactive, typically non contributing, member the owness is on you to distinguish yourself from the sheep.

Something that this thread certainly didn't reflect when I stumbled upon it the other day.

I don't see any objection to how the OP has handled this thread, as he hasn't been asking to be spoon fed and has been respectful. Once pointed to the best search method, he took everything in hand, found a solution, and followed up in his thread posting his solution. At no point has he been disrespectful or inflammatory. He is even responding to the harsher side of existing members a fair bit more calmly than most do, and more calmly than most of the people targeting him would.

It appears that the people that have a problem with him only have a problem with the fact that he is at the beginning of his self education. You can choose to either assist that, ignore him completely, or slam him for what he doesn't yet know.

Continuing to pursue the latter will not go favorably for anyone here.

Fair enough, RIWWP. I'm certainly not one to stand on a pedestal and judge.

Hello everyone

Will this let's say let your car overheat.
I've had this code for couple months today was 102 outside.
Driving home from work in traffic it started to overheat if the valve doesn't make the intake open or close then would this help car overheat.

On way down from little hill Heater was on full blast an coasted in neutral it went back to normal.
Then turned on the AC again and it was fine all the way home.

So will this cause that?????

^^Tell me how does an intake valve not opening can cause a car to overheat. You have a bigger problem than ur valve not working, might wanna flush ur cooling system with higher distilled water content.

For the record, op didnt solve anything, when me other member told him he was wasting everyone's time, he start talking crap, obviously he was wrong and wouldnt man up afterwards, Blah

If the valve is closed and not enough air is getting into where it needs to go no air flow will cause an overheat. Just curious if anyone else has had that problem.
It was driving up a hill with AC on in traffic then got the RPM's up to pass people and the temp was getting higher.
Once at the top turned on heaters and it cooled down then put AC back on and it was fine all the way home. That code listed here is the only code i have and my coolant was changed with a new radiator from dealer last summer and new overflow tank. only thing not changed was the thermostat. Which I have never put in yet.

I changed the top Sol valve but need to do the bottom 2.
It controls the intake valve if its closed then no air looks like to me........

:eek:

*facepalm*

all your questions will be answer IF you can study your car a bit more.

All I have been doing is studying my car.
The overheat only happened one Time before going up hill when it's hot Lake Tahoe .
The next Time was that a couple days ago.
It was only 2 times in a year.

It has been fine ever since with AC on and everything. That's why I asked on this thread since its the only code I have. Was thinking about thermostat next it's original????

Start your own thread, cuz i can tell you your issue has NOTHING to do with thr code you have.

YOu will get more answers that way

well at least your consistent. you keep harping on me being wrong but never once have you explained how or why. Still, I am willing to listen if you would just explain yourself and leave out all the antagonizing slander and hype.

Finally got around to doing the wrench work and installed the solenoid. reset all codes after and waiting to see if they come back.

just replace the solenoid, i have been seeing them fail quite a lot recently.

they only fail when you test then with the engine/solenoid fully warmed up, if you test it while the engine is cool it will likely pass but barely leaving you thinking it is a simple wiring issue which it isn't.

the part is about $125 and usually is in stock at your local dealer.

His last post commented that he installed it already.