I am planning on using the regular schedule. I am on schedule 2 so that means replacing the oil at 24 months or 30K miles. Having the free maintenance also means they get to do the change but I have to supply the RedLine :D .

On schedule 1 it would be 48 months or 60K miles.

 

so what are the different products? Can someone post links to each product?

Are they all on this site?

http://www.redlineoil.com/

 

how about this site?

http://www.paragon-products.com/Visi...tore_s/226.htm

 

You should use the Red Line MT90 (API GL4) in the tranny, and the GL5 '75w90' (not the 75W90NS, which is for diffs with no LSD) in the differential.

S

 

Does anyone have experience with NEO oils? Ive read a couple places (including www.mazdatrix.com) that seem to prefer it...

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/

 

Picked up my red 8 in April, noted that my gearbox seemed a bit noisy especially when cold.
I decided to check the level of the MT , to my surprise found it to be 1/2 quart low. This a brand new car right out of the dealerships lot.. I'm not surprised seems nothing is done right anymore.

 

It is a free item, but not until a couple of years down the road.....
I think they are scheduled to change it at 36k miles? :o
.
.
.
doc

 

I have 4800 miles.....I did my Red Line changes last night using jack stands. Great transmission just got better. Until you try this stuff you just can't imagine the difference. It has made a sweet ride soooo much sweeter. Thanks all for the product recomendations!

 

do we have to use mazda's crush washers, or can we go to a local hardware store and pick up something similar to the size? Also does anyone have the size of the washers? I know i can get any size washer from this one hardware place, just need the size of the washers. thanks

 

Gordon,

excellent instructions and advice for what SEEMS like a real simple something to do. this especially

take it from someone who has gone the laying-on-your-back-in-the-driveway-and-f&*(*)@ing-with-a-messy-suction-pump route before (on another car). try getting Lucas and 80w gear oil stains ans smell out of the driveway, your clothes, your carpet, and your hair. just TRY.

 

I just did this today. All the crush washers are the same size- 18mm.

 

I just ordered the oils and crush washers from Rosenthal to do the transmission and differential change this weekend. I noticed that they sent me 4 crush washers all the same part number( 9956-41-800). After looking at jdl's DIY at http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/ I saw two different part numbers for the tranny and diff. I contacted Rosenthal and they were unable to give me an answer since the parts tech was gone for the weekend.
Anyone use the same crush washers to change both the transmission and rear differential. Some posts stated that they were the same diameter, but a different thickness and material, is this correct? Should this make a difference in the seal?

 

Let me guess. The washers you got are the generic-looking aluminum thingys? Well, don't fret, they will do just fine. I went through the routine of explaining to the parts guy that the washer/gaskets were "special" ones for the RX-8 and if he didn't have them would he please order them. He did, I picked them up, removed the plugs and noticed that some of the washers that had been installed at the factory were different from the ones the part people gave me. So I reused some of the old washers and used the new ones where they looked the same.

So, I changed the tranny and differential oil on my RX-7 the other day and used some of the generic aluminum washers I had on hand (probably some of the ones I didn't use on the RX-8) and they worked just fine. As long as they fit, they will crush and seal. Make sure you torque the plugs to spec--especially the drain plugs.

 

Pardon my silly question, but I have to do this again because Mazda replaced my transmission. This time I think I may try Royal Purple, as I did Red Line last time. Would I use the same weight oil (75w90) in the transmission and the differential, or are they different? I know red line was mt-90, but I'm not sure what it would be in royal purple language.

 

MaxGear 75W90 is what you want.

 

Thanks man.

 

I've looked at RP and Red Line, the dealer wants to use BG. Does anyone know anything about BG? Any thoughts?

 

I have BG Syncroshift II in the trans and BG Ultraguard (75W-90) in the Diff.

Syncroshift II is a little thinner fluid (70W-80) than is spec'd by Mazda. If this makes you uncomfortable - you can do a blend with Ultraguard or pure Ultraguard as it is both GL-4 and GL-5. My preferrence is to stay with a pure GL-4, like Syncroshift II, as it works much better with the syncros as some GL-5 additives are hard on the syncros and can increase wear over time.

With pure Syncroshift II, my trans shifts buttery smooth and it has eliminated the inherent whine this trans notorious for having. The diff is also doing great, though it was generally quiet anyways.

Highly recommend the BG Products as I have used them in several cars with excellent results.

 

If anybody's looking at picking up some RP 75W90 right now. I just ordered some from americanmuscle.com. Price is $8.99 per quart with FREE shipping. Also use coupon code "mustangboards" for an additional 6% off!

4 quarts cost me $35 to my door. Tough to beat!

 

ok, so i just bought my 8 and i'm under the impression that the previous owner did not change these fluids. in any event, i'm looking to change them out for piece of mind. my question is, do i need to completely clean out the "pans" before adding the red line in? or will i be good just letting both "pans" drain out for a good 10 mins and then close up and fill with the new synthetic? the local "auto parts guy" told me that it would be bad if i didn't clean out the areas first and just mixed syn with the OEM fluid from before... any advice is apreciated!!

Jesse

 

There's no pan in a manual transmission. Your parts guy must be thinking of automatics.

There is a very good thread on changing transmission and rear end oil in the DIY section. That should tell you everything you need to know - and then some.

Ken

 

i thougth this was a thread where i could ask this type of question... anyways, i'm not referring to a pan... just the "housing area" when the fluids go into it. regardless... do i need to flush out the old fluids before putting in synthetic?

 

shouldn't need to. just open both drain and fill plugs, let it sit till it's empty, plug the drain plug and fill up.

 

always open the fill plug first!!!!!

 

I open them at the same time, just to be different.


Also as someone mentioned previously, americanmuscle.com has pretty good prices for rp - with free shipping:

Ordered: 4 45003 Royal Purple Max Gear 75w90 Gear Oil $8.99
================================================== ================
Product Total: $35.96
Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $0.00
Discount: $0.00
Surcharge: $0.00
Grand Total: $35.96