Well I drove 250 miles or more in 105 degree heat. The next day I drove another 125 miles
and Auto X in 108 degree heat.

Filter is still clean. No oil residue.

 

Just looked in my intake yesterday and found it to be a oil filled, the air filter had a large patch of oil right in the middle. It is a mess. I ordered a catch last night and will have it in this week end. I'll post pictures of before and after.

Any increase in mileage with a drop tube?

 

good info in here, I took my car in for the same oil in the intake problem last week, well I actually took it in several times for them to fix it.

On normal driving conditions, the car works great.. but when it is extreamly hot...and driving a bit hard WOT..by the time I get home.. almost a 1/2 Quart of oil. is in my intake..no matter how short the run.

when I was at my dealership for the last time, they told me that madza said they would change my engine the next time I bring my car in again.....do you all think it is worth it? by this I mean I am reading the fix being done here with the can...or my over oil blow off.. is def a problem....thank for your input..

 

If the new engine has the 06 breather then that might solve the problem, I haven't seen one yet but have read Mazda redesigned it.

 

don't flaim me for this question.. but does anyone know aprox. how long it takes to do an engine swap? I know everywhere is diferent...I am just wondering how long they will keep my car for..

 

What's up bro!

I've read on here that someone was getting an engine swap and their car was at the dealership for about 2-3 weeks.

Is the engine swap the greatest solution? hmm, not really sure... BUT... if Mazda is willing to do it since you're leaking so much oil then I think you might as well go that route.

P.S. You're leaking oil all over my intake?! haha, just kidding bro. You know I don't care...

 

ha ha don't worry jedi I will wipe it all clean for you, I did not take the car in yet, since I got it back I drove it in the same manner I did to see if the problem would repeat it self. but I have been so busy with work I did not get a chance to open up the intake to see if I can take it back now. The dealership wanted to keep the car, but mazda wanted them to move around the hoses to the intake"big joke" to see it that would help... ha ha....

I will cal you later...

 

the only thing i can think of think of the pcv valve as a vacuum diaphragm that opens n closes, u might just have a bad diaphragm, that doesnt close or close all the way when its supposed too............take ur 8 to mazda n let them check it out.....or just take out the pcv valve, put a breather filter over it n cap off the valve on the intake.........n f*ck emissions lol

 

Let them fix it.

With the number of miles you drive everyday to SD, it would be worth starting over with a new engine.

 

Installed the Greddy catch can today.

I used the area that Supergoat pointed out except mine can sit horizontally

Stealth's place on the stock air box is great too. I know eventually it will be coming out though... for forced induction...

 

Wow, the Greddy can looks really macho in there. And what's with the mongo braces? It looks like you're ready to go bash into walls or sumthin.

 

nice Greddy can . goes well with the blue stainless look you have going on. Now off thread but color the greddy name in blue.
Glad a lot of people are on to this. I really think it does help some cars. Dont forget also to use a long neck funnel when pouring oil down the filler pipe.
olddragger

 

:D Thanks Paul!
The brace is real nice but lacks the master cylinder brace
We will be working one to add to it.
The brand is Revolution Motoring Communications I believe it is made in Japan.
Couldn't pass it up when I saw it. Matches up looks with the rear Mazdaspeed brace. It is much more rigid too. I noticed a difference in steering when I added it.

That's a good idea olddragger.

 

Ok so I took a few pictures of my 06 Rx8 today.
I dont know how the older models are piped but they are suppose to be differant I hear.

So this is what I'm GUESSING is differant.



The line goes down the past the SSV .



Breaks off into a T



and plugs into the intake runners below the SSV.
I couldn't get a good picture where it plugs in at cause its to dark and cramped plus I used my camcorder to take the pictures :P



The red circles show right about where they plug in.
Is it differant on the older models?

 

So they now decide to burn up the gases in the exhaust instad of recycling into intake.

 

That is the intake.
It just looks like the are piped to the very bottom of the manifold to avoid it running down into the filter

 

so the new system goes to a 'direct" type. There sure is a lot more vacumn there than where it is on the older models. looks like mazda recognized potential problems in this area. Maybe all that we have been speaking off! That is a much better system.
OD

 

i was having a problem with my 8 prior to the engine being warmed up. if i accelerated to anywhere above 4k it was like my rev limiter was kicking in and the car would buck me until the engine would just start to warm. As long as the engine was warm i never had a problem. i know you guys may flame me saying... you need to warm your car. blah. anyway i removed the line from the oil fill neck and replaced it with an Autozone stainless steel filter and put a bypass cap and tyrap on the Intake nipple. this may sound crazy but now i can rev it to the beeps even when the engine is cold, and no more embarrasing cutback for me. if you guys experience the same cold engine hesitation probs id be interested to see if this works for you as well. The Autozone filter cost me 14.99 and the bypass assortment caps cost me 2.00. well worth it in my opinion

 

I doubt the change effected your cold reving...

I'm not going to chide you for reving the engine while it's cold. You'll know if you made a mistake when your engine starts leaking coolant. I'd prefer it if you had to pocket the expense instead of mazda though.

 

The ECU is programmed to cutout when a person revs and the car is still cold. To protect from accidentally revving the car and causing damage.

I don't drive my 8 till the idle drops to 1500 rpms. It doesn't take long and then I don't go above 4k till it has been up to temp for 5 minutes. This is especially important in the severe cold.

 

I would think that the top of the oil filler gets most of the water condensed when outside is cold. As the engine warms-up, that water evaporates and gets sucked into the air intake, causing bucking. The shock sensor would kick in and cut power - not the rev limiter. The mod above moves that water into the filter, hence engine is drier until is fully warmed-up.
However, high RPMs when engine is cold is a very, very bad idea. As 4ytsp mentioned, that is the way to do it properly. Sitting in the parking lot until the engine is fully warmed-up is safe but overkill, plus it wastes a lot of gas.

 

Heres some on Trade me in New Zealand (hope these links work)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=104787191

The above tank I'm think about getting or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...628217.htm?p=1

For the GREDDY style tank.

 

I bought one exactly like the one pictured in that link from a guy on ebay. Even the hose is the same. Problem is that the lid doesn't seal, and it had all kinds of goo on the inside. It really really stinks. I tried to seal the lid on but I made a bigger mess and some of the lid bolts didn't fit back on. I ended up tossing it and getting a real greddy catch can (they're only about $80...)

 

Thanks for that info. saves me having the same prob's. Theres aways some type of tank on Trade me, will keep looking cheers

 

still not even a drop of oil in my intake after 2 years