Why can't I remove those 2 bolts?


I've seen a DIY video wheer the guy hits the screwdriver on the screw with a hammer. I don't have any special screwdriver but I tried to hit my normal screwdriver with hammer but the screw is extremely tight. No way to remove with my hands.

 

He is using an impact screwdriver like this:


It's not a normal screwdriver. It has angles and twisting capacity so that when you hit the back with a hammer, it transmits a portion of that hammer's force into a rotation. I've got one, and the only time I've ever used it is for those screws. You can pick them up for pretty cheap from most auto parts stores. It really is the best / cheapest option I've come across for getting the screws out.

 

Those screws where a great idea from the factory, but years later they strip easily and are not worth the hassle I had to drill one out, and I have never replaced them since.

 

Clear enough guys, Thanks. So, job is postponed for this weekend.

 

I wonder if antisieze would work on those? Or would something like that just cook out from the heat?
I've had vehicles with the holes that required bolts to get them off, but not retaining screws.

 

There are some screwdrivers with hex shanks near the handle that can be used with a wrench. You can put your weight beyond the screwdriver while turning it with the wrench.

 

I hate those.

Impact driver them out (as stated above), or move on to drilling, and never replace them. They are unnecessary.

 

Just pointing that out in case someone has one in their toolbox & didn't think about it. I have some Snap-on ones. There are other brands that have it.

 

*Moment of Honesty*

I severely bruised the bone in my left thumb and fractured my wrist using a dead-blow hammer on *this* tool for *this* job. It would have been well worth the money for an air compressor and a pneumatic driver to save me the several months of pain and inability to fully use my left hand. Also, it took me about six months to get back to the car after the incident. Gloves won't help. Just food for thought.

 

I just drilled em out and never replaced them. Like stated above they're unnecessary. The wheels holds the rotor on by compression anyway.

 

I think a deadblow would not be as effective as a normal hammer or maul.
I personally like to use whatever OEM design features that were engineered for my car, even if they appear unnececessary, unless I think they are an actual hindrance.
I would do everything I can to retain them, even if it meant drilling, re-tapping, and replacing them.
I'm not disagreeing, I'm just weird that way.

 

The only reason I've ever seen for those screws that makes sense to me is that they are used to hold the rotors in place on the assembly line due to the transfer distance between when the rotors go on and where the wheels go on.

 

I've used a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" socket, and a phillips head insert with success before. Maker sure it does not slip or the heads will strip.

 

It's a minor thing, I like the stability of the rotor while trying to mount the bracket and screw in the caliper bolts.
Like I said, weird.

 

that's exactly what that's designed for, on assembly line, so the rotors don't fall off

other than that, it's completely useless and create problems.

I always remove them Whenever I see them. and tell the owner the story, some believed me some thought I'm nuts. but meh, not my car, if you want it to seize on you one day I am more than happy to leave it alone/put it back on for you.

 

When I've encountered those (not yet on my 8, but coming soon) the seizing seemed to be on the tapered back side of the heads. After drilling the heads off and removing the rotors, the remaining threaded part screwed right out with my fingers.

The screws themselves have a second purpose on some cars. On the Accord I used to own the rotors had two sets of holes. One set was to hold the rotors in place on the assembly line. The other set was threaded, and tightening the screws into those helped push the rotor off if it was stuck. Never had that problem, though.

Ken