About 3-4 hours of peering through a 157 page thread a 9 page thread from someone with a blown motor and various other threads need some advice on the best premix combo to use.

I am currently in the middle of doing some overdue maintenance/repairs to my 05 rx8 at 117000+ miles on the original motor(as far as i know im not first owner)

I am trying to currently extend the life of my 8 as long as possible till i get some more cash in hand for either a rebuild or i shall import a 20b cosmos and start gathering parts for a 3 rotor swap which ever i have the cash for(job owes me strike dues/retro pay but could take a while to get it)

Currently looking to do these steps along side of my repairs.

1: BG44k on full tank to shock clean
2:Premix either using a combination of 4oz idemitsu + 2oz fp+ or a combination of 4oz idemitsu + 2oz mmo

Now through all these threads i never found a clear answer on ether mmo was bad or if fp+ is better.
Trying to get a clear concise answer on this without starting another overly long debate.

 

"According to an NTSB post aircraft accident investigation published in 2003, a Marvel Mystery Oil sample tested was composed of 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard.".....N5428H Incident Report Narrative NYC02LA181. National Transportation Safety Board. October 17, 2003.

The fact that you are even considering MMO indicates that you should update your tech by about 70 years, most manufacturers stopped using lard in WWII.

Find a good 2-cycle oil that burns clean (JASO-FD rated, or better) and relax.

 

Six ounces of this per tank, and stop worrying:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-1...XKE3DM06XQS9VP

You can make your own MMO. It's just mineral oil, mineral spirits, and bacon grease.

 

What would be considered better than FD?

 

The people who dreamt up this magical elixer crap up all came and went, so did their engines too.

 

Dont know if this is good or not, Im using Idemitsu FC Semi-Synthetic 2Cycle oil. Not much difference after/before premixing. but i heard it's for the longevity of the seals. so.. yeah. Put roughly 200ml after a 50liter fill up.

 

i have idemitsu premix here already just trying to not only help the seals last longer but reading a million threads here seen some people mix in lubecontrol fp+ if that helps or not. Want to try and see if can stop part of the carbon build up. After using bg44k want to start premixing and if fp+ and idemitsu is a good combo

The worst thing about the forum is that finding good information is hard when there is so much strife in half the threads.

 

Idemitsu is not FC rated.

This should be in the new and potential owners thread.

 

There is no real scientific data that proves premixing does anything to prolong the life of a Renesis. The engine is faulty from a engineering standpoint. But for me, it makes sense to run a SOHN because cool two stroke of the latest design that is supposed to be burned is much better than used engine oil. Premixing the fuel with a good Jaso FD rated 2 stroke oil can't hurt either.

 

Exactly, hence this reply ...

Which it seems like you didn't get the message since you're still talking about using fp+ and so on. I never used any of that stuff and never knew or heard of any pro Renesis engine builder who did either. My personal recommendation for gasoline street fuel premix is and has always been Amsoil Saber Professional. If you are catless then you have more flexibility on how much can be used.

AMSOIL SABER® Professional Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil

 

As did most chefs.

 

Their product sheet claims it exceeds FC...
http://4imgs.com/1086/IRO_premix.pdf

 

Yeah it does but yet it's not FC or FD rated. Turtle Wax also claims that Marvel Mystery oil extends spark plug life and improves MPG.

 

Might try amsoil next after idemitsu easier for me to get a hold of since local shop gets all amsoil stuff easy

Cooking with lard is fun who needs there arteries not clogged anyway

How do u know its not fc/fd rated checked the jaso site and saw many different idemitsu entires but not sure if one is the premix or not and where does all this weird as info come from. How did turtle wax come by that assumption

 

I simply change my oil in my Series II often at 1000 mi with high quality SAE SN-rated 5W30 and I use 0.25 oz/gal of Jason FC rated Lucas 2-stroke semi-synthetic in me gas tank.

Now for that "Marvel Misery Oil" comment above...I wonder if it cleans the carbon buildup in my.....

 

If it were JASO FD rated (or older FC rating) it would state so and have the seal and all that Jazz.

 

Not the real ones, same for butter :-)

 

Here is my .02.


I run 6oz per tank with no cat convertor. I run 2 cycle oil through the OMP as well. I run Motul 710 which can premix and be injected and is JASO FD. I bought a bunch through a person who was paid with the oil for his work and wanted to dump it for cheap.


I think keeping the engine cool is the most important thing for engine life. ensure you have good cooling capability to keep the engine under 95C if you can. Make sure you have a well ducted radiator and control over temps.


I also think its important to run the thinnest oil at cold temps as possible. I am a fan of synthetic 0W-30 in these engines. Most wear comes from cold engines running so you want the highest flow at cold start ups.


I also think maintenance in terms of good spark will prolong engine life. ensure good coils/ and plugs.


Proper warm up and cool down of the engine. and every oil change run some water through the engine to decarb it.


Change the coolant out every couple of years to ensure the seals don't get eaten.


I am at 130K on my engine.

 

I just use 6oz of Lucas 2-Stroke synthetic and go on with my life knowing it's gonna need to be rebuilt eventually. Use what you and want and stop worrying so much.

 

The Lucas Semi-synthetic has been a winner for me. Affordable ,meets the specs and does the job.

 

This is actually a very good point. Premix is not on the JASO certification list. It could be said that idemitsu did not want to go through the process but still met the specifications. The fact that they have various other JASO certified oils though pretty much discounts this entirely. Them claiming FC compliance and yet not having it stands out as a major red flag to me. Obviously they are familiar enough with the certification process, if it was compliant they would've made it official.

 

So the thing about Lucas, as I just found out myself, is it's not actually JASO rated anything. Have a look : http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_EV_LIST.pdf

Apparently, the story with JASO is you can pay to have it tested by the certification body, or you can just do your own testing to the same standard and call it good. Kind of how car manufacturers do their own EPA fuel economy testing. I don't know what the test entails, but it would be worth finding out.

 

You're right about Lucas and the way the API and JASO approvals are granted - Lucas (& Amsoil & RedLine) have always stated that their product 'meet and exceed' the standards, but they refuse to pay extra to display the marks on each label.

So there's no 'starburst/circle' saying Service SN or Certified, you just have to trust the company.

Another reason to not stamp your bottles would be the Royal Purple example - when the 5w20 SM SN standards came out, it specified that oils had to reduce the amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), an extreme pressure lubricant, because it was implicated in long-term cat failures.
Many manufacturers opposed the removal because it would lead to more internal friction/wear. Royal Purple just refused to comply, so their oils can't be advertised as SN, you just have to trust their integrity.
Quaker State also rebelled, but they just added the high zinc 'Defy' line of oil and left it as an SL qualified oil.

Getting back to the JASO tests, they are quite fascinating - they torture motors on leaner and leaner ratios until they seize, measuring smoke, torque, deposits and ash in real time.

The standards are strict, with an FD oil allowed only half the deposits and smoke of an FB.....

The old API 'TC' standards are 1960's technology, when most 2T oils were based on a heavy oil called 'bright stock'. Today's oils are more additives that oil, many based on isobutylene, a super-lube that burns completely and leaves no trace.

 

Is there much evidence that premix kills cats?
I bought a case of the US idemitsu, as everywhere in oz was oos of sabre pro

 

I don't see how it would, it burns up fully. That's the whole low ash thing. The reference to catkilling above was about zinc in engine oil. So technically, using the stock oil injection is more likely to kill the cat than premix/sohn adaptor injection.