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-   -   Attention Experts: Break In Oil. Needed or no? (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/attention-experts-break-oil-needed-no-224565/)

nycgps 10-24-2011 09:15 AM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4108393)
oil filter--used a series 2 oem mazda filter ONLY. The by pass valve has changed and I know Rob has increased the engines oil pressures. You do not want to be bypassing your oil filter.

hmm, if it's FD regulator then ... not much point to use a different oil filter ...

sauceyI986 10-24-2011 12:27 PM

this is good to know before i dump dam near $80 in oil just to dump is out again

olddragger 10-24-2011 01:30 PM

Huh? What do you mean?
The filter by pass only is affected by the oil filter mediums response to the engine's oil pressure. If the oil can't get through the medium fast enough and pressure builds the by pass valve pops open to insure an adequete oil flow.
The S2 model oil filter bypass valve changed to one with a higher pressure valve. I remember that you are not supposed to use a S1 oil filter on a S2 model per Mazzda.
If you have placed a modified oil pressure regulator into the s1 model you should be using the S2 oil filter.
This is old stuff?

TeamRX8 10-24-2011 10:17 PM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4108864)
well--heck I have to be known for something?

i was referring to the OP. However, I now feel much better knowing that he relies on an expert like yourself over his engine builder.

http://www.oceansbridge.com/painting...ian-Vrancx.JPG

9krpmrx8 10-24-2011 10:30 PM

:lol: I am relying on my builder. He recommends good old 10W-30 Dino oil for break in so I picked up a couple of gallons of GTX. But the fact that the made specific break in oil was new to me.

TeamRX8 10-24-2011 10:47 PM

yes, formulated for reciprocating engines with a camshaft valvetrain ...

However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go


.

Brettus 10-24-2011 10:52 PM

I recommend changing the oil at 1/4 mile intervals for the first 10 miles then move on to every second tuesday .

9krpmrx8 10-24-2011 11:41 PM


Originally Posted by TeamRX8 (Post 4109608)
yes, formulated for reciprocating engines with a camshaft valvetrain ...

However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go
.

That would be sweet.


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4109613)
I recommend changing the oil at 1/4 mile intervals for the first 10 miles then move on to every second tuesday .

:lol: Don't temp me.

Easy_E1 10-25-2011 12:18 AM


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4109613)
I recommend changing the oil at 1/4 mile intervals for the first 10 miles then move on to every second tuesday .

:SHOCKED: I thought it was every 1/8 mile and then every second Wednesday till Labor day on leap years. Otherwise Columbus Day on the regular calender year. Unless it falls on a Thursday. Then you can only change the oil between 3:00 and 4:00 am. :dunno:

ASH8 10-25-2011 12:50 AM

I was told if you boil new engine oil first for a minimum of 15 minutes and let it cool you remove all the nasty hydro percolated synthesized carbon molecules (known as HPSCM) which will prevent the oil from suspending fine engine metal particles. The boiling allows all metal particles to sink to the bottom of your oil pan where it won't be disturbed until the next oil change.
Then any unwanted matter is flushed out at next oil change.

laythor 10-25-2011 01:06 AM

I just drilled a hole in my oil pan and keep a 50 gallon drum of oil in my trunk with a hose snaked through the cabin to a hand crank. Yeah, it's a bitch.. but my oil is so pristine. At least the trail i leave everywhere looks clean.

nycgps 10-25-2011 01:15 AM


Originally Posted by laythor (Post 4109689)
I just drilled a hole in my oil pan and keep a 50 gallon drum of oil in my trunk with a hose snaked through the cabin to a hand crank. Yeah, it's a bitch.. but my oil is so pristine. At least the trail i leave everywhere looks clean.

it sounds like it might be cheaper to just run the engine until it burns all oil eventually kill the engine than doing what you just said ...

Brettus 10-25-2011 01:46 AM


Originally Posted by Easy_E1 (Post 4109650)
:SHOCKED: I thought it was every 1/8 mile and then every second Wednesday till Labor day on leap years. Otherwise Columbus Day on the regular calender year. Unless it falls on a Thursday. Then you can only change the oil between 3:00 and 4:00 am. :dunno:



my apologies , quite correct . What was I thinking :banghead::banghead:

laythor 10-25-2011 02:34 AM


Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 4109696)
it sounds like it might be cheaper to just run the engine until it burns all oil eventually kill the engine than doing what you just said ...

dont be silly, this thread is all about using the right oil. Cause it's out there!

as we all know, the oil we each individually use is the best. The oil everyone else uses is crap

REDRX3RX8 10-25-2011 03:49 AM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4108864)
well--heck I have to be known for something?

But concerning the oil filter-- I am right my friend:)
The bypass valve in the oil filter changed to a higher opening pressure for the S2.
On cold starts with the S1 oil filter and a 40wgt oil--the by pass valve will open.

Some of you guys are much more versed in oil pressure conditions than me, but I do know that the Mobil 1 0w40 has the same flow rate at 41 deg f as the Mobil 1 5w20 at 32 deg f.

Some people using as daily driver might have to start way lower than freezing, but I use as my fun car, and I haven't ever started below 40 deg f which we are told is the summer tires limit to have traction.

That's why I'm a 0w40 fan instead of 5w40, 10w40, or15w40.

There's a cool graph at Widman.biz oil calculators that you can play around with to check oil flow of different oil against each other.

shadycrew31 10-25-2011 11:54 AM

I changed my oil at 500 miles then 1000 then 3000.

Then I didn't change it for 8 months, that was 2 weeks ago!

My advice, don't follow my advice.

olddragger 10-25-2011 12:16 PM

yall are right--never seen an oil related failure anyway. Just a few front bearings that were worn some--thats all.
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing

shadycrew31 10-25-2011 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4110031)
yall are right--never seen an oil related failure anyway. Just a few front bearings that were worn some--thats all.
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing

Lets do it!

why are we boiling the oil though?

olddragger 10-25-2011 12:29 PM

cause ! Purify it and piss off the neigbors!

Actually I have heard good things about the Mobil 1--0/40 wgt euro spec oil --may try that!

shadycrew31 10-25-2011 12:39 PM

You should smell the M series oil for BMW its made by castrol...

That stuff is wicked.

9krpmrx8 10-25-2011 01:38 PM


Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4110070)
You should smell the M series oil for BMW its made by castrol...

That stuff is wicked.


:lol: That reminds of the thread that was started about foul smelling oil.

olddragger 10-25-2011 07:48 PM

even my dogs wont go around that stuff--old motorcycle days--hah

nycgps 10-25-2011 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4110043)
cause ! Purify it and piss off the neigbors!

Actually I have heard good things about the Mobil 1--0/40 wgt euro spec oil --may try that!

Sorry od, u r 2 yrs late into the game. Lol


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