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Another A/C thread...

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Old 03-30-2004, 10:26 AM
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Another A/C thread...

I know this has been posted ad nauseum, but seeing as how things are starting to heat up again in Houston, and summer's just around the corner, was there ever a definitive answer for the A/C cycling problem? I've heard that it's a PCM issue, but it doesn't appear that the L reflash addresses it. I'm sure the dealership is gonna go with their standard "well I cain't help ya buddy... that's just the design on this here car..."

I've also heard of people recharging the freon on their 8s, but that seems like a rediculous fix for something that should be within factory specs. I dont intend to change the amount of the A/Cs working fluid until I know for certain that's the issue - that and it's rediculous to even have to do any of that yourself when the car only has 12K on the odo.

Anyways, I'm seeking some input - I'm taking it to the shop on Thursday for the cupholder fix (they actually believed there was a fix when they had the part number and internal service bulletin handed to them...) , and I'd like to get the ball rolling on this issue.
Old 03-30-2004, 10:51 PM
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Booze, I'm in Houston as well, you hang out with the Houston rx club? I'm thinking of trading my 6 in this year for an 8, so I'll be curious to see how the a/c is works out as well.
Old 03-30-2004, 11:28 PM
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My salesman told me it was common to a rotary, this was after i bought the car of course.

BTW, what cupholder TSB are you referring to? Maybe one that accounts for the fact my NAV controls are SOL because a drink flew out of it under heavy braking?!
Old 03-31-2004, 09:26 AM
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Brillo - I have done some stuff with the Houston RX-7 club in the past, but I don't ever seem to find the time to get out there very often. I'm going to try and make next week's meet on the north side of the loop - if you're interested, there's more info in the Gulf forum...

Epitrichoid - I was referring to the "internal" bulletin about insulating the cupholders to put an end to the Easy Bake Oven in my console. There's no TSB about it, but on their system that apparantly can only be accessed by service managers, there is another set of what amounts to non-public TSBs for when Joe Shmoe (me) complains about things such as said coffee warmer, they don't just stare at me with those goldfish eyes. That being said, my service adviser didn't know what I was talking about until I brought in a part number and left a printout for the service manager.

I don't think that'll help your quest to fix your nav controls, but you could say that the sliding door didn't catch on it's stop when you stopped hard, jacked your drink over, and ZAP! I've had my lid replaced once for that reason, but happily it didn't do more than dent a few styrafoam cups and upset some coke cans.
Old 03-31-2004, 09:37 AM
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My AC blows much too cold. I am constantly moving it from 1 to off. Anything more than 1 and i'm freezing. Most of the time I just drive with the windows down.

Although, I have to constantly wear a leather jacket at work.. they keep it much too cold here too.. like 72F
Old 03-31-2004, 10:16 AM
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A good problem to have... do you know when your car was built?

I've heard that new 8s don't have the cycling issue, but who knows at this point.
Old 03-31-2004, 10:49 AM
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Yes, I have the coffee warmer installed too lol
Old 04-01-2004, 07:49 AM
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Mine was built in August..

Originally posted by Boozehound
A good problem to have... do you know when your car was built?

I've heard that new 8s don't have the cycling issue, but who knows at this point.
Old 04-01-2004, 10:45 PM
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I had the cycling A/C issue today for about 20 minutes. Then it blew cold the rest of the afternoon. I am bringing my car in on Wednesday for that A/C issue as well as Hopefully the L or M flash as well as my freakin squealing brakes. I don't want to leave the car but I need to get this stuff done. The loaners I get suck the big one. I got a Taurus last go around.
Old 04-01-2004, 11:25 PM
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Boozehound,how's about a copy/link of that memo regarding the EZ-Bake effect,it's fix and part number?

I like to dummy-proof it for the service dept

I go in for service on Monday and would like documentation to take with me,can ya help a bro' out?

Thanks!
Old 04-01-2004, 11:26 PM
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I appreciate it,btw.

Old 04-02-2004, 12:09 AM
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Originally posted by epitrochoid
My salesman told me it was common to a rotary, this was after i bought the car of course.
Your salesman does not know what he is talking about. The functionality of the A/C has absolutely nothing to do with it being a rotary engine.

The system is just downright insufficient......PERIOD! I burnt up in my car all of last summer and I am not looking forward to it this year.
Old 04-02-2004, 08:17 AM
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Preacher - I think this is what you're looking for:

The following is not an "official TSB" but apparently an issue that has been identified and a fix applied. Notice the part number below, this was originally posted by a member who has contacts and/or some association with Mazda. BTW, the cost is covered and will be done under warranty.

=================
=================
FRONT CUP HOLDER / CENTER CONSOLE BECOMES HOT
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 40113124

Some customers may complain of the front cup holder area of the center console becoming hot after extended driving, causing cold drinks to warm. Due to the heat from the exhaust system (catalyst), the center console (cup holder area) becomes hot. This is due to insufficient insulation between the floor panel N cup holder. A insulation pad is available to reduce the heat transfer to the center console. 1. Remove the upper panel, hole cover (cigar lighter) and storage box from the vehicle. (See WSM 9-17-8) 2. Remove the six screws from the upper panel and remove the rear console. (See WSM 9-17-8,9) 3. Attach the heat insulator pad to the bottom of the front cup holder in the rear console removed at the above step #2. NOTE: Be sure to attach the heat insulator pad so that the bottom of the cup holder is wrapped. 4. Re-install the parts reverse order of removal. Parts information: F151-55-161 Heat insulator pad
=================
=================

Just copy that into word, print it out and they should know what to do.


I got my car back yesterday from the shop and the insulation helps, but it doesn't cure the problem. Now when I pull my cell or wallet out of the closed cupholder after my commute home (1 hr), they're warm, not hot.

I also had them check out the A/C and I got a big fat "operating within factory specs." Losers. Are there even real honest to goodness specs on this? Sounds more to me like "It's not something we want to tear into because no one told us what to do if it is a problem."

Got me a wicked Malibu "classic" to drive in the meanwhile <looking for someone to high-five>, and I have to say I'm thinking about trading my 8 in for one of those awesome machines. I couldn't keep the ladies off me when I was rollin' up 15 deep yesterday...

Last edited by Boozehound; 04-02-2004 at 08:19 AM.
Old 04-02-2004, 10:08 AM
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Ok... more research has revealed that there is a performance test for the A/C. It goes something like this:
1. Roll up all windows, shut doors blah blah blah
2. Get ambient temp reading outside the car
3. Put A/C on blower speed 3
4. Turn on recirculate
5. Temperature setting at the coldest.
6. Put dry bulb thermometer in center vent
7. Wait for temp to stabilize (yeah right - but the manual says this state is indicated by the compressor cycling off/on repeatedly)
8. Verify with chart to make sure it's in the zone.

I'm lazy so I'll just tell you what the chart says [temps in F and (C)] -

Ambient Temp range: 50 (10) - 86 (30)
A/C Temp range: 43 (6) - 46 (8)

Ambient Temp range: 86 (30) - 104 (40)
A/C Temp range: This one's a bit tricky, but the line on the chart is linear between the two endpoints of the ambient temps 86 & 104. @ 86, it should be between 43 (6)-46 (8). @ 104, it should be between 50 (8) - 46 (10).

Clear as mud?

Anyways, whenever I find a thermometer that can adjust to the temp differences quickly, I intend to do my own performance test to see if my car really is in spec. Maybe if we can get some more people to do a little data gathering, we can put together a more comprehensive idea of what's going on.
Old 04-02-2004, 12:30 PM
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Mines in the shop getting the A/C cycling fixed (along with L flash and other stuff). This is my first time I have had warrenty service on the car, but my initial impression is that they bend over backwards to help the customer. I will report the results.
Old 04-02-2004, 01:53 PM
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That's great news that they're fixing it. If you don't mind, when you pick it up, if you could find out exactly what the problem was and what the solution is, that'd help quite a bit.
Old 04-02-2004, 08:39 PM
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Originally posted by Boozehound
Ok... more research has revealed that there is a performance test for the A/C. It goes something like this:
1. Roll up all windows, shut doors blah blah blah
2. Get ambient temp reading outside the car
3. Put A/C on blower speed 3
4. Turn on recirculate
WTF? I don't want to have to rely on my blower blasting on 3 to keep me cooled down. I had a Millenia before the 8, and I would be cold with the blower at 1 on the hottest day of the year. That blower was silent too....no noise whatsoever.
Old 04-02-2004, 09:13 PM
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I dont know if that's the requirement to stay cold (b/c 4 sometimes isn't enough in my car in the summer), but I think it's more or less just the performance test in the service manual.
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