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removed mine today, had to do like the OP in the 1st post, im unable to remove the 2 bolts on the header with my tools...bolts are rusty too and my 10mm box slips on the nut...
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Where do you buy this Air Pump Delete plate?
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You can buy it from Racing Beat. I made my own bracket to fit over the top of where the solenoid goes alike to the OP since I couldn't remove the nuts below down on the exhaust. It's up for a few bucks in my FS thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/%2Afeeler%2A-aftermarket-parts-more-partout-231541/ |
Found it. Should have searched a bit more before I asked.
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Originally Posted by ZacZapper
(Post 4239216)
Found it. Should have searched a bit more before I asked.
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Since I installed an OBX header, I am guessing I have no need for the air pump and just remove it and that would get rid of the CEL. That is what I am gathering from reading the whole thread. Thoughts please before I move forward.
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Just because you have an OBX header doesn't mean you don't need the air pump. You will still get the CEL if you remove it.
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The air pump is for emissions and improving the life of your cat, those of us without cat's have no need for it.
A header has nothing to do with the airpump's purpose. |
The OBX header has no holes for the air pump. Oh I also have a RP high flow cat. Hmm..
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Disconnect the air pump at the connector closest to the side of the car, it is a red connector on my car. Air pump is in box in garage, has been for some time, no CEL. The tip is buried in hosts here, I did not invent it, I just followed it.
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If you simply unplug the air pump and remove it you should get a CEL (unless you are tuned VIA a COBB AP and it's blocked), if you do not then you are just lucky.
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Air pump works when water temp is below 35°C.
Before you reach 35°C, car is in open loop and very rich, like 11.0 AFR when idle, so air pump helps burn all that fuel. When water temp reaches 35°C, air pump shuts down and car goes in closed loop. If air pump is working, then front lambda sensor reads a "false" AFR of 18.5 - 19.0, cause pump is throwing air just before the sensor. If ECU sees this "false" AFR, then it knows that air pump is working, so no CEL. If air pump doesn't work, lambda reads "true" AFR, like 11.0 as I wrote... ECU then sees this "true" AFR and if AFR stays near 11.0 for a bunch of seconds then ECU says "too rich, air pump isn't working" and throws CEL P0410. Sometimes if doesn't throw the CEL simply cause you start the car, put in gear and go immediately. Engine gets obviously a little more air than idle to burn fuel, AFR goes up a little (like 12.0-12.5) and ECU does not think that air pump isn't working. Bye and sorry for using Celsius ;) |
^ what he said :fruit:
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4276382)
If you simply unplug the air pump and remove it you should get a CEL (unless you are tuned VIA a COBB AP and it's blocked), if you do not then you are just lucky.
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But the worst part is you will not have the airplane jet-engine start-up anymore :tear:
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Thank you everyone for your input. This is why I love this place.
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I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL. just saying.... |
Originally Posted by 04Green
(Post 4276905)
I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL. just saying.... You are running a MM tune so it's blocked, all emissions related codes are blocked IIRC. From day one mine was pulled completely removing all the wing back to that red connector and I had a CEL since day one until I blocked the code(s) on the Cobb. |
3 Attachment(s)
I just did my pump delete yesterday at work, it's not the prettiest cover plate, but it works.
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anyone have a step by step with pictures on how to remove this?
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Originally Posted by izombie
(Post 4331428)
anyone have a step by step with pictures on how to remove this?
1) remove everything in box #1, and parts 7,8,9,10. 2) replace part #10 with a block off plate. |
My take:
Custom Fuel Pump Resistor bracket https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...68836642_n.jpg Custom MOP driver bracket https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...56222073_n.jpg Yay https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...25550507_n.jpg |
Upon removing the pump, is it advisable to put a vacuum cap on the nipple where the hose connects to the engine?
I noticed in OP's picture the hose is just chilling there open... |
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