Ah, true.

 

Sorry.
Check the ground of the sensor at first!

 

I used a good, clean ground so it's up to rewiring eveything. That's why i hate you all! Now let the tiny emogay inside me cry for a while will berewiring the car and checking the sensor
At least water and oil temps ar rock-steady while cruising from the day of the install!

 

It's been stated several times in this thread that many components have not changed over time, and that's valuable information.

However, if I am not mistaken, one item that did change, at least from older engine designs to the Renesis, is the shaft itself. The tolerance between the shaft and the bearing is a critical part of the equation from a design-tradeoff persepective and can affect, I do believe, the optimum oil choice.

Do we know if the diameter of the bearing surface on the shaft has changed, when comparing the Renesis to earlier engines, or the S1 to the S2?

 

There are Pulley and Belt changes between two Series RX-8's also, and some parts have remained unchanged, without the 4 belts in my hand I can't tell you the difference (I am thinking length not profile), they are new part numbers that don't supersede.

So what has changed..
Both Rib Belts, E Shaft Pulley,Water Pump Pulley, Alternator Pulley.

What has remained the same..
Air Con Compressor and Pulley, Idle Pulley.

Remember the RX-8 has No Mechanically Belt Driven Air Pump like all other RX's.
So there is actually less 'Drive Load' on the RENESIS.

 

This is a "recording"
All internal engine Parts including E-Shaft are the same between S1 and S2 RX-8's. (Except Oil Pump and related)

I would also bet my ***** that the actual E-shaft Journals (diameter) are identical to all other rotaries ever made from 1969....so the "tolerance/clearance/ or gap" between the Journal and the Bearing Shell (where the oil goes) is the same..

 

I hope for your sake that's correct :P

 

The maximum oil pressure will change slightly with viscosity due to the pumping losses through the bypass valves, however, the main change is of course lower down in the range., same as changing the oil viscosity in a damper.

 

i posted some oil analysis results in the oil analysis thread
od

 

In response to the couple of zinc/phosphorus comments, Valvoline's race oils (dino, and syn) (http://valvoline.com/products/consum...ing-motor-oil/) supposedly have high zinc and phosphorus content. I'm currently using their dino 20w-50 oil because of the additives, as well as it's low ash content. Oh, and it's pretty cheap.

 

20W-50 synthetic?

 

To be fair, it doesn't appear that the valvoline synthetic is group IV, or V, so some wouldn't call it a synthetic.

 

Valvoline's "so called Synthetic" are Group III.

I wouldnt pay a premium for some "fake" **** like that

 

Ah I see. Is there a list out there of all the "true" synthetics?

 

i dont think so.

gotta do the research on your own

(found out from the hard way )

 

But you did all the research already.

 

Anything that is a 0w oil is going to be a true Group IV or V synthetic. Some of the 5w stuff is hit or miss. IIRC, all of Eneos, Royal Purple and Redline's product lines are true synthetics.

 

I want some Eneos.

 

Let me know what you want. I can get it for you!

 

flash answered the question

Eneos ... very temping ...

 

Yes, I've been eyeballing some eneos 0w-50.

Doing a quick google search of any oil in question usually turns up the group it belongs to.

 

Interesting thread. I've switched to dino 10W-40 since my 30K tune-up from 5W-30. Maybe I'll go full synth Redline/RP the next oil change.

 

ive been using 5w20 i guess i should switch 10w40 or 20w50. Im also confused about using regular oil or synthetic.

 

it has nothing to do with oil weight, you're all so far off base you might as well be pitching tents on the moon

 

Yeah it appears it could be Oil Pressure, via the oil pump control/relief valve spring as it is S1 RX-8 specific.

Or the other possibility Mazda publicised the wrong PSI Figures, but I somehow doubt this as this means they made a mistake on more than one occasion...

On the oil pressure thread of mine "Nubo" found a link back to 2005 where a guy and an FC RX-7 used in motor-sport modifies the Oil Pump Control Valve SPRING by adding 2 x 5 mil Washers to tension/compress up the spring and improve Oil Pressure.

They leave the rear by pass valve as it is which is the same as the S1 RX-8 as is the Oil pump, chain, and drive gears, the only difference is that SPRING!!

More to come..