seems to be running a lot better after the full tank of premium i guess i was just suckin some trash up in the tank or something... still struggling a little to start compared to what it used to be but it does start so i probably need to clean something in the fuel system. battery voltage before starting in the morning was 12.2 and while running was 14.3 so i think thats all good

still have abs and traction lights seems to be the last thing to solve. may try switching back to my original module but maybe get the locksmith back out to try again on it

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...716dc36574.jpg

Dumb question: Have you done the steering wheel reset procedure? It's never worked for me when I had issues, but can't hurt to try...

ive always heard "there are no dumb questions just dumb people asking questions" lol .. seriously tho im just happy for any response or feedback... noones perfect it could very well be something simple i overlooked so i appreciate it

i have done it a few times but i dont get a confirmation maybe im doin it wrong? DSC light never comes on or functions just the abs and out of control car light .. and they randomly went away one morning until i hit about 30mph

i just got another system too lean p0171 code today even though its running better now i feel like there is definitely still something clogged so i may be taking the fuel pump out soon ugh.. also gonna swap rear o2 sensor just in case

i just dont understand what else could be interfering with the abs lights other than program issue even though its the one that went with the ecu it may have been a bad module from the parts car. nothing was able to be tested on it

oook so im replacing a dead fuel pump... gave her straight 12v and no dice.. spare pump goes with same 12v

is there anyway to drain the tank with a dead pump? im over half full and dont want it to squirt on me :(

after a fun day of playing with gas and tearing apart two pump assemblies and all three cars.. she is back! :D

i first put in the 04 silver MT parts cars pump and housing because its the spare one i had out that worked on 12v.. after putting it in the nipple was leaking so i took it back out

next i put i took the pump assembly out of the red shinka i had been driving for 8 months and put it in... didnt get any action on it for some reason after putting it all back together.. so i took it back out..

next i disected the good pumps housing and once i figured out how to get it all the way apart i found out ITS A WALBRO!! but someone installed it with no o-ring and didnt drill the siphon.. so i went to ace and got the o-ring and drilled out the siphon to 1/8

after swapping the good pump into the good housing with good nipple, cleaning the sock (very dirty ), and reinstalling with the smaller o-ring from ace, new ss clamps on the hoses, and wiping it all down its finally acting normal and started real fast!

after testing the shinka pump outside the car it works fine for some reason never worked in the car.. maybe my battery was just too low?? now i will put it back in and glad i just purchased the stupid removal tool kit from autozone.

currently she is doing ok i drive everyday to get some coffee or food, but im still having some kind of fuel issue.. the idle is kinda rough sometimes hunting between 700-900 and stuttering while at idle. The fuel tank is making some kinda clunking noise constantly at idle after the operating temp gets to normal

Im thinking i have a siphon tube problem or was not supposed to drill the siphon hole (read mazdamaniac guide that said to drill the siphon pickup tube to 1/8" ) the fuel pump makes a different noise everytime i engage it sometimes is like a hydraulic noise like its charging pressure. The car always drives normal and usually idles but has stalled before

The ABS system has been attempted to reprogram to my ECU again but the locksmith could not programmed the mismatched module. The module from the parts car seems to think i have a left rear speed sensor wiring problem but i checked the wires and seem fine. I have got this module to clear when the locksmith was here, until i put it into the cradle that holds the unit and bolted everything back then it didnt work. I played with a bunch of wiring under the dash that has the speed sensor wires in it and saw the DSC light flash for the first time, did the steering wheel trick , and lights cleared!! As soon as i hit the DSC off button to test it the lights came back on and l havnt been able to clear again. Im assuming i still have a wire shorted somewhere and am gonna run to separate wires to the speed sensor today .

She is so close! main goal is to get it running right for BOTD meetup next month at deals gap if anyone wants to join :)

well after a lot of frustration with the donor MT abs unit , the original AT abs unit, and forscan diagnostics i have determined that the MT abs unit has a shorted out board or pins for the LR speed sensor.

i will be ordering a new MT abs unit from ebay and hopefully theres nothing wrong with it...

the original AT unit shows the speed sensors working thru forscan live data just fine

no way i wire anything will the MT unit clear the c1175 code even if i use the other rear sensor/wiring and even if i tap the other rear sensor wiring right at the connector. it will show intermittently working while im driving but never while stationary which will never clear the light.

also had a random sensor power supply failure code at some point so adds to the bad unit diagnosis.. its not giving power to the sensor therefore not getting data back

for some reason when i try to program the original AT unit with the MT asbuilt data it got as far as telling me to turn the key off and on the first time, but every try after that tells me "vehicle conditions incorrect" and now shows random asbuilt data is read when i load it none of which are oem data. cant get the oem MT data or AT data to load.

I would be grateful if anyone knows how to get this unit programmed (also have a nonDSC unit at junkyard available and another AT unit here i could try ) im using an OBDlink SX cable and the newest beta of forscan

only other problem im having at the moment is the RKE module is showing low voltage code b1318 continuously and i have confirmed the units are not interchangeable from 2004/2005 to 2006+ for the RKE

today was my first day with no lights!!!

installed the ebay module which was actually from an automatic but was an 05. seems the 06-08 are different wiring even? i can see the connector has different wires for the yaw sensor and brake pressure sensor... hoping they go to the same places but have gotten a c2778 code for yaw sensor before.

the first try in forscan worked on the programming! my theory is it messed my asbuilt hex up the first try because it told me to turn key off and on but didnt say success then showed weird hex data after and never would program to MT data. possibly because its from an 06-08 car (the original 07 AT one for the car) so i think thats trash now with the other MT module that was apparantly bad.

i think i might install the other cars yaw sensor or atleast compare them just in case they are different but i get a lateralG reading in forscan. no yaw reading i dunno what it takes to change the yaw reading while driving

last thing after this is trying to get the RKE working and ive tested all the buttons thru forscan im gonna play with it some more. The code i got says there is a software incompatibility with the instrument cluster . maybe have to upgrade to 06 cluster?

I switched the red shinka RKE module into it for a test because that car had a card key as well and that one worked. I got about 5 codes saying theft detected and immobilized i thought i was done for... switching back out reset to normal luckily DO NOT DO THIS LOL

yea been there lol if the key, key ring, and rke don’t match she don’t do shit 🤣 props tho, very impressive work and documentation, def went the hardest way possible but it led to more understanding of the car so I think that’s great. I think Rx8s are in general kind of rough at idle especially when they aren’t in great shape or have been modified a lot. I haven’t owned that many so I can’t speak for too many, but I’m sure some other members can confirm. I think the best solution would be to get tuning software like VersaTuner, its what I use, or I guess MazdaEdit is pretty good too. You can adjust idle speeds in general as well as the adjustments the car makes for various conditions. You can also do a little with the DTCs as far as reading and disabling but you might get more out of Forscan I’m not sure. From what I understand VersaTuner is more for the ECU engine management and Forscan is better suited for the cars other systems so with both you can probably get to pretty much everything. Other than that I think your best bet for compatibility is to try to use as many of the control modules as you can from the same donor car so they have the matching programming or get reprogrammed if possible. Sensors however are usually meant to be replaced and I would probably go with new ones if possible just to be safe.

thanks for the reply! yea i definitely went the hard route but thats ok like you said ive learned everything about the car and it needed gone thru bad.

everything is driving and working now with no lights on the dash except the airpump cel! i even checked forscan codes and got an all clear on all the modules once but i know there is an RKE code saying software incompatibility with cluster.

The only other module that can be switched is the TPMS which seems to be exactly the same device. I have a few times seen the tpms light flash after a 20 mile drive but it never stays on like it should with 2 tpms missing.

Here is a screen grab from forscan showing the module data. here you can see everything matches the 2004 pcm except the newer RKE which i guess the instrument cluster doesnt know how to read? all lights/keys/immobilizer works fine but havnt tried programming a key card yet $$
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...dc399f3f00.jpg

Can you provide a basic shopping list to complete this project?

1. appropriate year MT parts car
2. good locksmith
3. two t-taps

Damn .... I just read everything you're doing or did and that's pretty cool !!! Props to you!!

I've been doing quite the reading about swapping as well cause i have a 05 Mt base model , but i want a cw just cause they look so good lol but also would like to have sunroof and the extra fancy interior 😅

I found a stupid cheap 06 cw with 63k on it , but it's Auto and even tho I would be throwing a REW motor in it , I'm not sure if I'd be able or what would I need to transfer from my 05 6sp Mt to it to make it work.

Been waiting for a blown manual cw with low miles to pop, but nothing yet 😅

Thanks for the compliment. I still cant seem to get cruise control to work and the keyless module system doesnt work so i have to use the key from the card like a regular old key. If you have a regular keyless system not the advance you wont have any issue there, but if you do make sure the parts car does as well. The cruise control worked for kevin so maybe mine is just because the cluster is old or from one without?

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ything-274079/
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auto to manual rear plate
 

Apologies for the necro.

This may be a dumb question but - I found out today just how different a 6port automatic vs a 6port manual rear iron is. The auto has a very different starter bolt-up configuration (bolts go into iron perpendicular to the iron, vs. the manual starter bolts up like the transmission does - longitudinally).
I searched but no luck - is there any sort of conversion plate to enable using a manual starter on an automatic rear iron?
Can't remember if the US ever got 6 port autos (6spd), but they are the majority of what's available from the JDM import stores right now, as 6port 6 spd manuals are rare and usually $600+ more.

Regards,

sil80

I have fitted an engine with a auto rear iron into a manual ...no problem at all. You end up one bolt down which doesn't create an issue. Just made up a panel to cover the hole left where auto starter goes.

yes you can use the same 6port motor from AT to MT. Like brettus said its just gonna leave an open hole above the MT starter you can cover if you want

Thank you both for the confirmation. Trying to look for a pic, so there is still a bolt hole or two to be used on the trans to bolt to?