ah, neato, didn't know there was a PPF difference in there. i did this on an 04 4 port 4 speed auto.

i did this work solo. i jacked up and applied holding tension under the auto trans, then loosened the PPF nuts on the trans. i put a 2x6 block of wood between the rear diff and the cradle, then removed the PPF nuts all the way, which tensioned the block of wood. after that, unbolted the PPF out, lowered it onto a creeper, and wheeled it out from underneath the car.

for reinstallation, i jacked up the manual trans as far as it would go in the trans tunnel. slightly loosely bolted the PPF to the rear diff. then, held up the PPF, releasing the block of wood. holding it up where i guessed it would be in line, i slowly lowered the manual trans until the trans studs went through the PPF. loosely installed the PPF nuts, then relaxed the hardware on the rear diff that was holding the PPF. after all that, followed the FSM guidelines for tightening the bolts, setting the pitch/angle with the trans tunnel brace, then final torque.

wow thanks so much for the replies! i indeed am trying to put a 2006 PPF on and it is definitely close but just not quite there.. i have probably taken 20 ppf's out and installed 10 and never had this issue but also never really had the car sitting like it is on blocks. i had to completely dissasemble the rear subframe and i know sometimes the ebrakes will hold a preloaded angle on the diff until you let them go, but im hoping the 2004 PPF i have coming from the junkyard is all i need because i am tired of messin with it haha..

I will try again today just for the hell of it since i have to put the shocks in the rear but i am confident ive got them as close together as they can be . Ive held up a tape measure from stud to stud while raising and found the closest together points and its still a half inch from goin in the holes at all and the marks from previous tightening are way off

The good news everything electronically seems ok except the starting because i am gonna tap that wire for the clutch today but i think it will be fine. worse case i have the immobilizer from the other car but no blinking keys or anything atm!

So lots of issues trying to get it started today but finally got a wire ran from the white/blue ignition wire to the ltgreen/red starter relay trigger.. but not until grounding the relays ground... which is maybe not right but its trying to start with the key now

ABOUT THE PPF!!! ive spent a lot of time trying to get this thing on and its finally on but ive bent a few of the studs it seems and its really tight on the driveshaft it barely spins.. but its on...? is there something else wrong or is there really a longer ppf on the earlier ones? so frustrating im about to drill out these holes bigger lol

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b69974e205.png
this is what my research is turning up. F151-39-710K, which supersedes the ones previous in F151-39-710, is applicable for all standard power [automatic/manual], and high power [manual]. FE92-39-710B, is applicable for high power [automatic]

the high power automatic was introduced in 2006 model year. if you are working with a 2006 high power automatic, then, per these parts number breakdowns, you have a different PPF.

guess most of the other conversions that have been going on have been standard power [4 port] automatic to high power [6 port] manual. and this may explain what is going on with you. from this table, it would be "later model automatics, you need an earlier model automatic or a manual PPF".

hopefully you can sort out the bolts/studs, and wait for your 2004 PPF to arrive.

[ease of searching: F15139710K F151 39 710K FE9239710B FE92 39 710B]

just... lol

i also found those two part numbers but almost zero info and everyone on earth says they are the same. yay me

junkyard ppf be here on tuesday or wednesday

since you will be in a position to do so...when the other PPF arrives, can you please measure PPF lengths and bolt hole offsets from ends? hopefully we can provide some critical information that could help someone else.

oh absolutely because its apparantly something never been done haha.. is it really that none of you guys have had a 2006 car you are swapping? i hope the keys dont give me shit because the systems are diff

i called the dealer today and after basically forcing him to help me and asking about 7 different times i finally got a confirmation on different part numbers but nothing about whats different or lengths so i guess ill still be getting the junkyard frame and praying to the rotary gods

i tried a few times to start it but sounds like no fuel or spark yet.. gonna check spark with my inline light and maybe its been flooded from all the key on stuff or disassembly but we are almost there..

I guess im not really doing what everyone else is doing not many would go thru all this work just to have a manual trans.. i already had 6 speed and 6port on two cars but both auto . so if you are doing this in the future make sure you get a 2004/2005 PPF or any year manual i think. the 6spd trans must be whats different i wish i had a 4spd to measure the tailshaft...

some teasers ;)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1d8e0e6557.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6b929f3590.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4193d921c2.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9bebdac17a.jpg

Finally got the other frame in today and its definitely longer by an inch!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b9a24a95d6.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...087bfe79c1.jpg

after battling wiring issues for 3 days i finally re-read the thread and saw that it wont start on the MT ECU and though i thought i had the right one in there i had the ECU from the red shinka in there and not the one from the white car originally an AT as well. i dont think many would go this far for a swap but i am taking a good motor out of the shinka AT 6spd 6port and putting it in the white car which also was 6spd 6port but bad motor. ive taken 3 cars and made one with all the best parts but i got confused on which original ECU it was.. SOOOOO IT STARTED TONIGHT!! for a brief second then i turned it off and will probably have everything wrapped up tomorrow suspension wise /wheels/ bumper and i think shes ready !!!

i dont think i will have the same injector issue because it used to be a 6port car right? still gotta run the violet wire for the clutch sensor tomorrow as well .

also: i measured the two transmissions and everything... the driveshafts are still the same length and transmission overall length is the same but the bolts/studs are located and inch further on the 6spd AT trans confirmed for why the PPF is shorter

finally got her running today !! i got it started last night but instantly shut it off because it was late and well... flooded real bad :(

so after all the usual attempts and draining all my batteries i finally took it down hill and dumped the clutch for a while in 2nd gear and she finally puttered to life

after nearly dying goin down the driveway with no brakes i hopped across the street for the gas station and gave her a little premium. immediately was followed into the gas station and asked how much to buy it lolll (thought of the F&F meme)

so tomorrow gonna throw some fresh plugs in and get the trans fluid changed and go for a few test drives before a dealer visit i guess and alignment

Ok well at the moment she starts and runs fine with the original ECU , but definitely in limp mode of some kind. I cannot get the dealer here to help me with it and every locksmith i call has no clue so what are my options for getting the manual flash ecu working ?

I have 4 DTC which i assume are from the wrong ecu being in but maybe not.

p0335 - crankshaft pos sensor A circuit
p0171- system too lean bank 1
u0101- lost communication with tcm
p0301- cylinder 1 misfire

Can i buy a versatuner or something to flash it like the cobb or something?

Racing Beat flashes ECU's. I have no idea how involved they get with it, but I'd imagine they could probably at least point you in the right direction.

Congrats on getting the car running though. That's no small feat. Definitely more work than I'd be willing to do.

im pretty sure the codes are a limp mode caused by the OMP removal , luckily i kept the wiring and will just hook the old one back up i guess today. (two of the lines broke)

i have ordered an obdlink sx cable and will try to flash this ecu i guess with mazdaserviceinfo license but i dont see anywhere that lets me know if i can flash an AT ecu into an MT ecu. i dont see the issue if the ecu/pins are the same but who knows

OMP was definitely the reason for the ECC code and misfire.. i put an old one back in today without the lines and shaft just to plug up and it revs to 7500 like the auto did now. doesnt seem any different from stock now other than not revving higher than 7500. i know you could change this with versatuner but i am sure there will still be something else that wont work until i flash to MT tune.

I am still a little confused on which needs to be done.. do i have to flash my current AT ecu to an MT flash? or program the MT ecu for my cars modules? i feel like you could use a device that plugs into the old TCM harness that tells it a different signal for MT but maybe im dreaming. (to bypass new ecu flash not to provide the clutch signal)

I have an appointment at my dealership on the 28th to see if they can help and maybe get the recalls done that are outstanding atleast ( my excuse to force them to try to work on it) i think one is actually for a new flash but im just not sure if it matters that it was AT seems like they could flash anything to any ECU all the pins are the same

ok i am getting myself pretty confused on what i need to do here but i think i may not be able to do what im trying.... at the moment i am driving the car with no issues other than the check engine light saying lost communication with ECU and 7500rpm rev limit. everything runs and drives fine and im sure the ABS/DSC would work if i put the original back in (swapped to the MT cars already)

I have the key from the 2004 MT which was a basic key immobilizer and just has a cut blade with no chip or head attached .. someone cut it all off..awesome
I have the original AKE from the 2007 CWP which is prob all working but i only l have the emergency key cut to the ignition .. no remotes but does start with key
I have a blank AKE key that i would like to get a new Card for and cut to copy the current one in the 2007 CWP

from all my research the only important matching parts to make the engine run properly and make the immobilizer happy is an antenna coil/immobilizer ring with key and matching PCM, which at this point im guessing is probably gonna have to be the same year as the cars supposed to have originally. at the moment i have all kinds of immobilizers and keys and ecus' and not a single one to match for an AKE system so im gonna call the junkyard tomorrow and pray they have a cheap matching set before my dealer appt comes up next monday.

Im also thinking i could tap the immobilizer harness and just leave the old ring and get a new key with a chip and ziptie it under the dash ? Seems like there would be conflicting codes i guess if both were plugged in so i wont do this yet

All i really need is to replace the ignition cylinder completely but i wanna keep the red ring and no key required to start situation ....ive never been able to press the button on the handle to unlock and i want to ... can i have both systems in tact with an old key cylinder system?

Also after a lengthy discussion with racing beat there is zero way that they know of to make an AT ecu work as an MT ecu... so you will have to have the MT ecu and atleast immobilizer ring/key to make any swap work as if it was just in another shell. Any reflashing of the AT ecu will not be happening to make this work so make sure you have the right one for the key and make sure the key is the same system as the one you wanna be using.

Since i am swapping a 6port6spd AT to 6port6spd MT my ecu is operating pretty much like it should other than some improper signals its wanting from the AT neutral switches or gear selector stuff but i havnt noticed any problems with idle or revving /accelerating to 7500 so its a shame it couldnt just be fixed with a flash. If there was a way to activate the immobilizer enable signal (whatever that is ) without an aftermarket ecu option i would say it would be the best option if anyone knows of that? send 12v to a certain wire when starting?

Thanks to everyone for their time/input .. happy fathers day !

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!! i finalllllllllly got a locksmith with the vcm to come by and was no problem to get the MT ecu working with my key.. just needed a PARAMETER RESET! didnt even have to code any keys or immobilizers. He changed the VIN on the ecu to match my car and its like nothing is different except the mileage on the cluster so...about to go for a test drive and see if i can finally get a 9k rev :D\

He wasnt able to program the old credit card remote from the shinka to this car but maybe the dealer can on monday .. if not the locksmith can get the oem credit card with key for 160 and its an OEM one not a chinese one which i will probably be doing anyway. He was able to tell me a wheel sensor was bad for my DSC but i have plenty to swap out maybe just needs cleaned. The spare CC key blank i got cut at ACE for $2 and the locksmith put a chip in it and "cloned" my existing one. He has the nicest service van ive ever seen with all kinds of chips and keys and very squared away smart guy. SOO thankful for him everything cost $200 and i am happy to pay it! My appointment at mazda monday will be for recalls and to see if they can program the old CC remote to my car but i doubt it (i think they are one time)

Im so close to finally being able to use the advanced keyless for the first time and properly drive the car for the first time ever. This motor has never seen over 7500 rpm for its 22k miles so im gonna take it easy at first. I feel like special ed from crankyankers! GOIN TO HAWAIIIII YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

Happy times mate! Go easy on her! Be safe.

I think i might just make a different thread for people in my situation.. sucks i assumed so much and had to learn for everyone but meh :P Its a lot of what if reading through this whole thread it could definitely be updated/consildated for people

so the locksmith said that the ABS module was communicating and showing the left rear sensor dirty.. i cleaned it and replaced it and reset steering center.. no luck and have a constant 0301 misfire and 0300 random which im pretty sure is related. Do i still have bad sensors or did he not actually get it programmed ? I do have the manual cars unit in the car but drove it for a while with ABS and traction light on ( not the DSC OFF ) . still have those lights and i think the sensors tell the ecu how fast to fire right?

Ill check monday at my appointment but could also call locksmith back out maybe he was real cool. I replaced plugs and checked/rotated my new coils and never had any issues before so im sure its a programming thing but it is keeping me from running it hard atleast lol. It happens even on easy cruise straight anything past 3k rpm just goin to coffee shop n back 1 mile or so

So i missed the dealer appointment but probably for the better.. I did a lot of sensor replacement and testing trying to get the ABS light and flashing CEL fixed... turns out it was a bad E-shaft sensor but its been working no problem until the computer was programmed.. maybe there is a difference in something signal wise? anyway i replaced it with a fresh one and it went on a 20 mile trip with no CEL and i think the abs light might go away after a few cycles?

I am getting the alignment tomorrow and also may be the reason for the ABS lights on, but i have the locksmith on standby for a reprogram of it i guess

I noticed 2 days ago i first started the car for the day and the lights went off, but as soon as i got out of my driveway and got the misfire they came back on and still on. still related?

Otherwise shes rippin good now! finally got a 9k redline beep :D

Everything went well with alignment but still have the ABS and traction lights on. They went off one time so far which makes me think its "programmed" but ive fixed all the potential issues causing the lights.. i guess i should call the locksmith back out

all sensors are testing good resistance, all fuses are good, everything else is working well and no CEL except the 410

possible i got a sensor on the trans plugged in backward? speedo works i dunno what else is part of the ABS check on startup

at the moment i am having a lot of random issues it seems.. i finally got the misfire fixed with the new ESS and went for the test drive and had what seemed like fuel cut or pedal cut.. randomly completely cutting off then coming back 100% .. i rewired my throttle body connector because a wire was not in good shape and changed the MAF sensor to a cleaner one and the random cut outs went away but now it just struggles to idle. Had the longest startup ive ever had this morning seemed like it took 5-6 solid seconds and didnt wanna do anything. It was low on fuel and was showing lower on the gauge than i remember it being.. stalled coming down the driveway and showed below E so restarted and gauge showed few bars above E like i remember but instantly stalled again and went below the E. I went and got 5gal of gas and put some fresh premium in and it started running ok again but seems like i have picked up trash or somethin is wrong with the fuel pump.

I get a p01071 system too lean bank 1 and also got a random p2004 for the "intake manifold runner control stuck open bank 1A" so i fingered the SSV valve it seems to move . no more CEL flashing but still have abs and traction light plus idle jumping up and down

should i shim the ESS like others? why would this need to happen.. i also verified i have reverse lights so i assume the trans wiring is hooked up right