Wingle's Supercharger Build
 

Migrate this from my project teaser to an office build page. Wish me luck!

Hymee Supercharger
Supercharger fixes (port and polish, fittings, spacer, welded dump pipe)
RB Oil Lines
Sohn Adaptor
New Injectors
BHR Fuel Pump
Samco couplers and hose

Photos:
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Reserved

I really want to touch up the polish job on the alternator and throttle body, my polisher didnt have any small tools and I could use my dremel, just not sure if the casting is fine enough to do it without sanding

parts look awesome brah good luck with your build,

where did u get the s/c from?

I've been doing my spare throttle body as well - hard to get into some of the nooks and crannies for sure but i did manage a better finish than they did by the look .

Judging by the look of the parts this is going to look super cool installed . great stuff ! .

should have blasted it with a very fine or non abrasive media first to brighten everything then polish what you can

Yeah, I just took it to a local polisher, thinking about sending it to a pro

Looking good. While you got all the parts out you may as well replace the existing seals with Viton seals as they will last longer as well as polish out all the tooling marks for a better seal. If you are using gear oil then you should be ok.

Get a longer coupler for the first connection pipe after the blower as you will find the pipe may not marry up all that well. The longer coupler will give you room to secure the pipes together without boost leak. I only noticed this boost leak when i removed the battery tray.

I regret not going with upgraded injectors as it now involves removing the supercharger to get to the injectors as the standard pulley now puts out 12psi now that all the boost leaks have been resolved. The power is now in the 300 HP range.

I am looking to change my fuel pump to Aeromotive 11142 for safety as mine is almost 10 yrs old.

thanks! I got a 4 inch coulper, I hope that does the job

just for edumacation sake:

1. that first pic, mounting bracket?
2. the polished piece with the rotor and the logo, is that anything in particular?

1. yes kinda. It's easy to see on Hymee and skc's install
2. Intake plenum

Running into an issue, looking in Hymee's instructions it appears that he runs the oil filter to cooler oil line to the left (drivers side in US) oil cooler. But in my car that oil line runs to the passenger side and mounts differently. Here is the page I am talking about. Curious to hear from our friends from down under whats up.

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Where did you get yours from?

I suggest you contact Danny as he installed my kit.

Unfortunately, I did not get to replace the seals within the compressor. The only Viton seals I used was for the dog bone.

You should be able to source replacement seal from your local bearing shop. take your original seals for measurement

Nice build :) I have one of these kits sitting in my garage. Hopefully someone will make Hoss-05 happy and buy it.

OK, so to make things easier I am just going to buy RB oil line kit and add the Hymee extension to it. Spent all today cutting the lines out with a pocket knife since the fittings were so rusted in the wheel well. Also took out the air pump to make room for both Sohn Adapter Tank, and Oil Catch Can.

Also any ideas on what weight gear oil to use in the blower?

nothing?

I would call the blower manufacturer and see what lubricant they recommend. The RB oil line kit is okay but you could make a line setup very similar for much cheaper.

It is the same blower as the Pettit kit so you should be able to use the same oil. Hopefully, OD might be able to help you out

I priced it out and I may be able to save about $100 if i use the high quality Earl's hose. But I am going to the National Training Center for a month tomorrow and to be honest I want it just here waiting for me, worth $100 IMO. Also I am 99% positive I would screw up the lengths if left to my owe devices, at lease RB would guarantee fitment.

I sent an e-mail to Hymee and Sprintex regarding the oil. We will see what turns up in the inbox.

Ordered my RB oil line kit, as well as extensions that should cover eveything, pics on wednesday.

Got on a stainless steel kick as far as fasteners, and am a little concerned about their lack of tensile and load strength compared to Hymees 12.9 grade galvanized. I have been assured by my mechanic it will not be a problem except for rotational clamping loads (inside the blower, pulley/idler bolts.) But just to be sure I ordered ARP high strength stainless bolts for the large M8 bolts that withstand the weight and vibrations of the blower.

My general view is that the 800,000 Kpa that would shear a stainless bolt would be more likely to bend the aluminum plate first, but I am no physicist (or mechanic).

Just seeing if any of you have any opinions on that matter.

Just got my injectors back from cleaning,

Before (Flow@ 43.5psi):
Used S1 Blues
1 612cc
2 624cc
3 624cc
4 600cc
New S2 Green
5 492cc
6 492cc

After (Flow@ 43.5psi):
Used S1 Blues
1 612cc
2 612cc
3 612cc
4 612cc
New S2 Green
5 492cc
6 492cc

I really can't see how they did that........

did what? the high numbers or the consistency?

I would say he's referring to decreasing the flow rate of two of the blue injectors, unless they used other injectors they had and sent you back a matched set.

The one blue injector that increased could be a result of cleaning but the decrease doesn't make sense.

no explanation from them, maybe just replaced the pintle cap or spray plate or whatever. Might have been a leaky internal o-ring. I don't know enough about it to do anything but guess.

But the pulse test and ms flow rates had minor differences between them, but that's not saying they still didnt feed me a line of bull

You have a hymee s/c in your garage?!?!?!

Who did the cleaning? I had KGParts do a set of mine and they left a 2% variance between them.

new era performance, out of Rochester NY, lots of people around here use them

New Pics of latest goodies

I read your full (deleted) post. I hope you changed them. There are things internal to the oil filter that won't work with a reverse flow (bypass valve). And the construction of the filter may cause it to collapse if the flow is reverse.

I took it down because I read that filters flow from the outside ring to the inside post, which is how the setup is.

Like the new oil cooler hoses. I will look into upgrading mine in the near future especially once the oil pressure increase valve has been fitted.

My new engine harness has been fitted and the wires sitting directly under the rear of the compressor has been moved. These wires went to the neutral switch and rear O2 sensor. The extreme heat and rubbing had caused damage to the wires.

The wires running through the middle of the compressor has been wrapped in heat shield as well.

Ill have to double shield them or something, I got a sweet look at gregs setup and his awesome tuck, definitely worth trying in the future, probably after I blow this engine.

If you want I have the measurements for custom hoses to connect the hymee setup to the RB oil coolers.

The problem with the stock mounting location of the rear harness is that it sits directly under the ball of the layshaft gear and it touches the harness. Adding insulation will not help as you are already rubbing and this causes the individual wires within the harness cover to lose its insulation and cause an electrical short.

Therefore moving that mass of wires is the best option. Mine has been mover closer to the injectors.

I just looked, it's not too many wires to cut and re-solder to give me length enough to push towards the firewall

Cutting and resoldering was not a good option according to the auto electrician. That is why we went for a new harness as it is softer and can be manouvered easily.

gregs cut and resoldered most of his harness for his tuck and I'm pretty sure hes not running into issues

Ok, just be careful as that part of the wiring harness has a lot of heat exposure as it sits on the hot side of the engine. The act of unwrapping and moving can cause the insulation to fall off.

Harness not effected by this intense heat are easier to play with and move.

Alright, this sucker is going in this weekend. Anyone have any ideas on the oil I should put in the compressor? No news from Hymee or Sprintex. Would 75w-90 work? Keeping in mind the system is closed and not really possible to regularly drain and change it.

today's progress, intercooler and piping tomorrow, then vacuum lines, fuel pump and final assembly

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:lol: @ all that pretty stuff on that dirty engine :) Good work man.

Haha yeah, needs to be detailed as soon as the install is done

Good work, should be running in no time.

hopefully before jeffs tuning session on thursday!

Well she started... but was trouble idling so I started to monitor my AFR... was around 16!! Mind you this is with MM base FI tune and the bigger injectors! I thought I would run rich. Before I could switch over to fuel trims to make sure it shredded the belt...

But hey, at least she ran for a second.

Ill talk to jeff tomorrow night, now I just need to see if I can find the right sized belt tomorrow.

yep, found a leak in the intake... would a 3/16 hole really make that much difference?

Congratulations, get that thing on the dyno once it is tuned. My max power at 8psi was
200kw.

However, due to weaker seals and compression it has now dropped to 188kw.

Yep, I have seen a tiny leak keep a new engine from idling. We were going crazy and once we found it and fixed it, we were blown away that it was just that.

The only big issue I am having is the terrible intake setup, the kit calls for you to slide the solid plastic MAF tube over the Throttle Body using a soft silicone buffer/coupler/sealer type thing. Which means you cannot clamp it down and just depend on the soft rubber to hopefully seal. With my RB intake its near impossible. I want to retain the RB intake box for a stock look, just need to figure how to assemble an feasible intake