What type of engine oil for turbo rx-8?
10-22-2007, 10:30 PM
#26
i have ran 5W30 RP for years--no problems and great "feel" to the car. We call the 5W 20 stuff "WD-40"-- its about the same.
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger
10-23-2007, 01:04 PM
#27
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I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine
10-23-2007, 01:19 PM
#28
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I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger
olddragger
10-23-2007, 01:31 PM
#30
I read somewhere on here that dyno vs synthetic isn't as important as sticking to one or the other, but of course I can't find that thread now.
I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine
I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine
You fail at cars if you can't check it in that time
10-23-2007, 01:42 PM
#31
I got my OMP Adapter today
Do you have any idea what container I can use?
I really need to keep my washer fluid since I drive in the winter.
10-23-2007, 06:35 PM
#33
climate does make a difference---(Pettit is based in Florida and I am in ga) as to what weight oil to use.
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap.
premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it)
The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing.
for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price!
I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it!
Olddragger
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap.
premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it)
The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing.
for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price!
I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it!
Olddragger
10-23-2007, 08:08 PM
#35
climate does make a difference---(Pettit is based in Florida and I am in ga) as to what weight oil to use.
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap.
premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it)
The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing.
for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price!
I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it!
Olddragger
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap.
premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it)
The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing.
for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price!
I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it!
Olddragger
11-02-2007, 11:25 PM
#37
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I use Torco 5w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer. With the 20w50, you definately have to let it warm up and it's a good idea to change to a lower viscosity oil when the temps start to dip below 60F.
Edit: I also have an exra oil cooler and use a "wet" CHRA
Edit: I also have an exra oil cooler and use a "wet" CHRA
Last edited by GTAW; 11-20-2007 at 07:12 AM.
11-19-2007, 07:07 PM
#40
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Im planning to go FI over the winter and talked to a local speed shop about some oil. He suggested Eneos 0W50 Fully synthetic. Apparently they're the only ones in the market who make this weight. What do you guys think its like 13.99$ a liter :|
11-19-2007, 07:16 PM
#42
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Whys that? Is it an absolute no-no? Because where I am located we get both extremes of the mercury. What would be a better weight 5W30 as stated above?
11-19-2007, 08:23 PM
#43
I recommend 10w40 for all year round in Minnesota. Yes it is considerably thicker but on a turbo car you are running all the oil through the CHRA of the turbo which is at extremely high temperature, way more than what the oil sees anywhere else in the engine under normal circumstances without a turbo. This makes any Xw20 or Xw30 oil turn into water, even during winter. Dont forget that during winter or during summer the operating engine temps are the same, so is the EGT, the only different exists from a cold start. You should choose the oil that works best for when the car is at operating temps, if this requires that you let the car warm up during winter then it is a necessary evil but you should never choose an oil solely because of a condition that exists only during startup. In all around warm/hot(ie, Florida, TX, PR) weather I would recommend using 10w40 or 20w50 depending on your driving style. In varying weather(like MN) use 10w40, believe me after driving the car for a while with a turbo installed, it doesnt matter if the the outside temp is -10deg, 20&30 weight oil will look like water if you pull the dipping stick out.
Hope this helps.
Chris
Hope this helps.
Chris
Last edited by ChrisRX8PR; 11-19-2007 at 08:28 PM.
11-20-2007, 08:28 PM
#44
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I recommend 10w40 for all year round in Minnesota. Yes it is considerably thicker but on a turbo car you are running all the oil through the CHRA of the turbo which is at extremely high temperature, way more than what the oil sees anywhere else in the engine under normal circumstances without a turbo. This makes any Xw20 or Xw30 oil turn into water, even during winter. Dont forget that during winter or during summer the operating engine temps are the same, so is the EGT, the only different exists from a cold start. You should choose the oil that works best for when the car is at operating temps, if this requires that you let the car warm up during winter then it is a necessary evil but you should never choose an oil solely because of a condition that exists only during startup. In all around warm/hot(ie, Florida, TX, PR) weather I would recommend using 10w40 or 20w50 depending on your driving style. In varying weather(like MN) use 10w40, believe me after driving the car for a while with a turbo installed, it doesnt matter if the the outside temp is -10deg, 20&30 weight oil will look like water if you pull the dipping stick out.
Hope this helps.
Chris
Hope this helps.
Chris
Thanks!
11-21-2007, 01:37 PM
#45
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The beauty of multi-viscosity engine oils. Cold startup is where engine damage can occur too. If you have a 5w40, 10w40 or even a 20w40 they roughly have all the same protection at higher ambient temps, so considering cold starting temps for your region isn't such a bad idea. Here's a decent guide for choosing the grade of oil. This graph is taken from www.carbible.com:
Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection.
Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the *** later on...
Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection.
Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the *** later on...
11-21-2007, 02:53 PM
#46
The beauty of multi-viscosity engine oils. Cold startup is where engine damage can occur too. If you have a 5w40, 10w40 or even a 20w40 they roughly have all the same protection at higher ambient temps, so considering cold starting temps for your region isn't such a bad idea. Here's a decent guide for choosing the grade of oil. This graph is taken from www.carbible.com:
Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection.
Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the *** later on...
Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection.
Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the *** later on...
Also don't forget that 5w and 10w oils are rated for viscosity at different temperatures. There is a good write up on this on the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com. Soem 52's can actually be thicker at 0*F than some 10w's. There is information on how to figure out the viscosity at a specific temperature on that forum as well.
Also as oil heats up it thickens so if you heat the oil out of its operating range it will get thicker than its viscosity is rated at.
12-20-2007, 11:33 AM
#47
I sent an email to Royal Purple asking what type of oil I should use. This is their reply.
"If you car is stock then RP 5w30 or RP 10w30 are great choices. If you have increased the boost beyond the factory boost or switched out your turbo, then we recommend XPR 5w30, RP 10w40, or XPR 10w40."
Then I asked if I should chose a lower weight oil since I drive in the winter. This is their reply.
"No, our oil can crank below -44 degrees F."
"If you car is stock then RP 5w30 or RP 10w30 are great choices. If you have increased the boost beyond the factory boost or switched out your turbo, then we recommend XPR 5w30, RP 10w40, or XPR 10w40."
Then I asked if I should chose a lower weight oil since I drive in the winter. This is their reply.
"No, our oil can crank below -44 degrees F."
03-09-2008, 09:52 AM
#48
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Wow
I am more confused than ever after reading this thread…. I think I will be sticking to 10w30 for my turbo renesis…
I was considering going to 10w40 as ChrisRX8PR stated but I don’t think it will make much difference.... or will it?
I am more confused than ever after reading this thread…. I think I will be sticking to 10w30 for my turbo renesis…
I was considering going to 10w40 as ChrisRX8PR stated but I don’t think it will make much difference.... or will it?
03-27-2008, 11:48 PM
#49
Living in canada i would stick with a 5w... if you use a 10,15,or 20w.. when you start the car in the cold it takes much longer to start pumping. the only difference in 5w30 and 10w30 is the viscosity when its cold. And i personally like my oil to pump out of the pan as quickly as possible. But thats just my opinion.
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