Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 2108751)

i have ran 5W30 RP for years--no problems and great "feel" to the car. We call the 5W 20 stuff "WD-40"-- its about the same.
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger

Originally Posted by mysql101 (Post 2094701)

I would recommend it. It's better for your turbo, and it will have higher resistance to being cooked from the heat.

If you have doubts if synthetic is good for your engine, buy the sohn adapter, which will prevent engine oil from being burned (you supply it directly).

Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 2108751)

I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger

Originally Posted by maxfn (Post 2109605)

I read somewhere on here that dyno vs synthetic isn't as important as sticking to one or the other, but of course I can't find that thread now.
I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine :(

Originally Posted by mysql101 (Post 2109656)

you can fill it with one and a half quarts. So a month and a half of oil for most people.

You fail at cars if you can't check it in that time

Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 2110218)

climate does make a difference---(Pettit is based in Florida and I am in ga) as to what weight oil to use.
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap.
premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it)
The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing.
for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price!
I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it!
Olddragger

Originally Posted by ChrisRX8PR (Post 2147839)

I recommend 10w40 for all year round in Minnesota. Yes it is considerably thicker but on a turbo car you are running all the oil through the CHRA of the turbo which is at extremely high temperature, way more than what the oil sees anywhere else in the engine under normal circumstances without a turbo. This makes any Xw20 or Xw30 oil turn into water, even during winter. Dont forget that during winter or during summer the operating engine temps are the same, so is the EGT, the only different exists from a cold start. You should choose the oil that works best for when the car is at operating temps, if this requires that you let the car warm up during winter then it is a necessary evil but you should never choose an oil solely because of a condition that exists only during startup. In all around warm/hot(ie, Florida, TX, PR) weather I would recommend using 10w40 or 20w50 depending on your driving style. In varying weather(like MN) use 10w40, believe me after driving the car for a while with a turbo installed, it doesnt matter if the the outside temp is -10deg, 20&30 weight oil will look like water if you pull the dipping stick out.

Hope this helps.



Chris

Originally Posted by GTAW (Post 2150590)

The beauty of multi-viscosity engine oils. Cold startup is where engine damage can occur too. If you have a 5w40, 10w40 or even a 20w40 they roughly have all the same protection at higher ambient temps, so considering cold starting temps for your region isn't such a bad idea. Here's a decent guide for choosing the grade of oil. This graph is taken from www.carbible.com:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8...sitywu4.th.gif


Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection.

Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the ass later on...