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What type of engine oil for turbo rx-8?
The previous owner was using 5W-20 but I was curious if I should go with a higher wieght since the car is turbo charged.
I will be driving the car thru the winter so that might effect the type of oil I should use. :) Should I switch to synthetic? and if so is it worth the extra cost? Synthetic oil is 4X more expensive here in Canada. |
I use 5w30 all year long, thinking of going to 5w40.
For turbo I think 5w20 is no good .... dont know what the previous owner was thinking but to me it sound like a moron. |
i've been using 10w30 rp
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ok but should i use synthetic or not?
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I would recommend it. It's better for your turbo, and it will have higher resistance to being cooked from the heat.
If you have doubts if synthetic is good for your engine, buy the sohn adapter, which will prevent engine oil from being burned (you supply it directly). |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2094701)
I would recommend it. It's better for your turbo, and it will have higher resistance to being cooked from the heat.
If you have doubts if synthetic is good for your engine, buy the sohn adapter, which will prevent engine oil from being burned (you supply it directly). Mods sure are endless on these cars. :banghead: |
at the risk of going off topic, here's details on it: http://rotaryinsider.com/viewtopic.php?t=93
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Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2094727)
at the risk of going off topic, here's details on it: http://rotaryinsider.com/viewtopic.php?t=93
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Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2094727)
at the risk of going off topic, here's details on it: http://rotaryinsider.com/viewtopic.php?t=93
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it was suggested using the windshield washer tank.
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Originally Posted by kersh4w
(Post 2095830)
it was suggested using the windshield washer tank.
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if you drive fast enough, dirt can't stick.
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Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2095842)
if you drive fast enough, dirt can't stick.
I plan to drive the car thru the winter so I need washer fluid for sure. |
One last question about synthetic oil.
Would I have to change the oil every 5,000km or 3,000miles with synthetic? Synthetic oil is 4X the price so it would get expensive pretty quick since I drive ALOT! |
use castrol gtx 10w30
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Originally Posted by VarneyMazda
(Post 2097375)
use castrol gtx 10w30
Are you a bot? :lol2: |
most respectful builders will tell you to use a 10w 40 oil in an fi renasis engine but ONLY if you warm the engine before you drive due to the tight bearing clearances. one recommends a 20w 50 for everyday driving in mod climates. he also recommends changing the oil every 3K or when the oil looks dirty. If you add a remote oil filter and use a slightly bigger filter than oem (k&n 1010 versus a k&n 1008 ) you can get an extra quart in her.
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2098696)
most respectful builders will tell you to use a 10w 40 oil in an fi renasis engine but ONLY if you warm the engine before you drive due to the tight bearing clearances. one recommends a 20w 50 for everyday driving in mod climates. he also recommends changing the oil every 3K or when the oil looks dirty. If you add a remote oil filter and use a slightly bigger filter than oem (k&n 1010 versus a k&n 1008 ) you can get an extra quart in her.
I switched from 5W-20 to 10W-30 and I am blown away how thin the 5W-20 is. I mean its thin like water. :Eyecrazy: |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2094727)
at the risk of going off topic, here's details on it: http://rotaryinsider.com/viewtopic.php?t=93
Quote: "The price of US$108.00 includes the adjuster, wich you only need if you use an ECU without an output for the OMP stepper." Does the Greddy emanage have the output for the OMP stepper? |
When my car was turboed I used Royal Purple 5w30. Worked great.
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Originally Posted by xenon
(Post 2098912)
I contacted Richard Sohn and this was his reply.
Quote: "The price of US$108.00 includes the adjuster, wich you only need if you use an ECU without an output for the OMP stepper." Does the Greddy emanage have the output for the OMP stepper? |
Originally Posted by xenon
(Post 2097803)
Thanks, that was very helpful.
Are you a bot? :lol2: everyone has their own opinons on oil. I talk to one person and they say OMG no synthetic it kills your motor!!! yada yada. Im a former RP user who just hated rp because i had to order it, because no stores carried it. From what ive been told is use 10w30 when its colder where i live in maine. and use 20w50 because it has anti sludge forumlation that supposively good for rotary motors. personally i never have used 20w50 basically because i think it is alot heavier than i feel comfortable using. 10w30 is a good oil and is perfect for a daily driven rotary that is boosted. |
When I had my 8 I used 5w30 synthetic, and changed it every 3500 miles.
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idemitsu 20w50 synthetic rotory engine oil and run the idemitsu premix. they were used on mazda's 787B.
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i have ran 5W30 RP for years--no problems and great "feel" to the car. We call the 5W 20 stuff "WD-40"-- its about the same.
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me. olddragger |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2108751)
i have ran 5W30 RP for years--no problems and great "feel" to the car. We call the 5W 20 stuff "WD-40"-- its about the same.
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me. olddragger |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2094701)
I would recommend it. It's better for your turbo, and it will have higher resistance to being cooked from the heat.
If you have doubts if synthetic is good for your engine, buy the sohn adapter, which will prevent engine oil from being burned (you supply it directly). I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine :( |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2108751)
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger |
The oil is thicker when its warmer.
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Originally Posted by maxfn
(Post 2109605)
I read somewhere on here that dyno vs synthetic isn't as important as sticking to one or the other, but of course I can't find that thread now.
I like adding a little 2-stroke to the gas, but mysql101's suggestion sounds like a great solution. I just wonder how often the extra washer fluid bottle has to be refilled? I can easily see myself forgetting to top it off and destroying my engine :( You fail at cars if you can't check it in that time |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2109656)
you can fill it with one and a half quarts. So a month and a half of oil for most people.
You fail at cars if you can't check it in that time I got my OMP Adapter today :) Do you have any idea what container I can use? I really need to keep my washer fluid since I drive in the winter. |
i use 10w30 dino because from what i've read it seems to be the best bet.
im too much of a noob to feel the difference between engine oils. :P |
climate does make a difference---(Pettit is based in Florida and I am in ga) as to what weight oil to use.
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap. premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it) The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing. for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price! I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it! Olddragger |
OD, what exactly is the air seperator tank?
I was under the impression the 3 tanks were oil catch can, wiper fluid and radiator overflow? |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2110218)
climate does make a difference---(Pettit is based in Florida and I am in ga) as to what weight oil to use.
the pettit twin screw type sc is self lubed--no oil pan tap. premix is for additional lubrication(i highly recommend it) The sohn adapter doesnt do anything about increasing lubrication to the seals--it only changes its source of pick up. that is not a bad thing. for cans and such go to Mazsports home page they have a custom set up and it is really cool--tell them (betsy) i sent ya and get $1 off retail price! I have their custom windshield washer tank(its just plug and play) and it is really good. Plus their mount allowed me to mount the oil filter on the firewall. Their tanks are advertised all together(set of 3) but they will sale separately. You wont regret it! Olddragger |
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I use Torco 5w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer. With the 20w50, you definately have to let it warm up and it's a good idea to change to a lower viscosity oil when the temps start to dip below 60F.
Edit: I also have an exra oil cooler and use a "wet" CHRA :eyetwitch |
5w40 seems like a wierd choice for the winter.
Would 10w30 cause me issues? I plan to drive it in the winter. |
I know I use 5w30 all year long. Might give 10w40 next summer.
NYC can go as low as 20F, and as high as 105f. Tonight is 42. 10w30 wont cause you any issues, but if its too cold I guess u should try something like 0w30 or 5w30. |
Im planning to go FI over the winter and talked to a local speed shop about some oil. He suggested Eneos 0W50 Fully synthetic. Apparently they're the only ones in the market who make this weight. What do you guys think its like 13.99$ a liter :|
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you don't want an oil with the cold and warm weights that far apart.
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Whys that? Is it an absolute no-no? Because where I am located we get both extremes of the mercury. What would be a better weight 5W30 as stated above?
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I recommend 10w40 for all year round in Minnesota. Yes it is considerably thicker but on a turbo car you are running all the oil through the CHRA of the turbo which is at extremely high temperature, way more than what the oil sees anywhere else in the engine under normal circumstances without a turbo. This makes any Xw20 or Xw30 oil turn into water, even during winter. Dont forget that during winter or during summer the operating engine temps are the same, so is the EGT, the only different exists from a cold start. You should choose the oil that works best for when the car is at operating temps, if this requires that you let the car warm up during winter then it is a necessary evil but you should never choose an oil solely because of a condition that exists only during startup. In all around warm/hot(ie, Florida, TX, PR) weather I would recommend using 10w40 or 20w50 depending on your driving style. In varying weather(like MN) use 10w40, believe me after driving the car for a while with a turbo installed, it doesnt matter if the the outside temp is -10deg, 20&30 weight oil will look like water if you pull the dipping stick out.
Hope this helps. Chris |
Originally Posted by ChrisRX8PR
(Post 2147839)
I recommend 10w40 for all year round in Minnesota. Yes it is considerably thicker but on a turbo car you are running all the oil through the CHRA of the turbo which is at extremely high temperature, way more than what the oil sees anywhere else in the engine under normal circumstances without a turbo. This makes any Xw20 or Xw30 oil turn into water, even during winter. Dont forget that during winter or during summer the operating engine temps are the same, so is the EGT, the only different exists from a cold start. You should choose the oil that works best for when the car is at operating temps, if this requires that you let the car warm up during winter then it is a necessary evil but you should never choose an oil solely because of a condition that exists only during startup. In all around warm/hot(ie, Florida, TX, PR) weather I would recommend using 10w40 or 20w50 depending on your driving style. In varying weather(like MN) use 10w40, believe me after driving the car for a while with a turbo installed, it doesnt matter if the the outside temp is -10deg, 20&30 weight oil will look like water if you pull the dipping stick out.
Hope this helps. Chris Thanks! |
The beauty of multi-viscosity engine oils. Cold startup is where engine damage can occur too. If you have a 5w40, 10w40 or even a 20w40 they roughly have all the same protection at higher ambient temps, so considering cold starting temps for your region isn't such a bad idea. Here's a decent guide for choosing the grade of oil. This graph is taken from www.carbible.com:
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8...sitywu4.th.gif Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection. Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the ass later on... |
Originally Posted by GTAW
(Post 2150590)
The beauty of multi-viscosity engine oils. Cold startup is where engine damage can occur too. If you have a 5w40, 10w40 or even a 20w40 they roughly have all the same protection at higher ambient temps, so considering cold starting temps for your region isn't such a bad idea. Here's a decent guide for choosing the grade of oil. This graph is taken from www.carbible.com:
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8...sitywu4.th.gif Choosing a synthetic oil for turbocharged use might something to consider too, since it's able to withstand higher engine temps, giving you more of a safety net. I'll just go ahead and assume if you have a turbocharged rx-8, you already made up your mind about the whole mineral vs. synthetic debate. If not, by now you should be researching more about the oil injection. Upgrading your oil coolers, or at least the airflow to and from them is something else to think about. Using a turbo with a "wet" CHRA to run coolant through is also a good idea with a rotary engine. One thing that I'm learning, is to think about the bigger picture, let it be coolant, oil or the fuel system. Don't be cheap, it'll come to bite you in the ass later on... Also don't forget that 5w and 10w oils are rated for viscosity at different temperatures. There is a good write up on this on the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com. Soem 52's can actually be thicker at 0*F than some 10w's. There is information on how to figure out the viscosity at a specific temperature on that forum as well. Also as oil heats up it thickens so if you heat the oil out of its operating range it will get thicker than its viscosity is rated at. |
I sent an email to Royal Purple asking what type of oil I should use. This is their reply.
"If you car is stock then RP 5w30 or RP 10w30 are great choices. If you have increased the boost beyond the factory boost or switched out your turbo, then we recommend XPR 5w30, RP 10w40, or XPR 10w40." Then I asked if I should chose a lower weight oil since I drive in the winter. This is their reply. "No, our oil can crank below -44 degrees F." |
Wow
I am more confused than ever after reading this thread…. I think I will be sticking to 10w30 for my turbo renesis… I was considering going to 10w40 as ChrisRX8PR stated but I don’t think it will make much difference.... or will it? |
Living in canada i would stick with a 5w... if you use a 10,15,or 20w.. when you start the car in the cold it takes much longer to start pumping. the only difference in 5w30 and 10w30 is the viscosity when its cold. And i personally like my oil to pump out of the pan as quickly as possible. But thats just my opinion.
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