It is great on the roads and highways...so effortless.

Wakefield is a difficult track to master and I generally get it right by the afternoon however, as I had issues in the morning I was still learning till the last lap.

Going back for another tune to resolve the idle and throttle response then it will be perfect. I will look into the smaller pulley later on.

Gave the car a wash last weekend after its long trip to and from the RX8 Nationals.

Looking to go on a mountain run this weekend, although I will be a bit cautious as I have changed my exhaust at may be more restrictive than the full 3" set up. Car is booked for a follow up tune on Tuesday.

Cool man. I'm glad you have been able to have so much fun with the kit. Hope you get extract a bit more power from this new tune. Hopefully this winter I will be strapping my kit on.

I look forward to seeing your kit running so we can compare the various mods that create power.

I do not expect more power from the new tune as the exhaust is a bit more restrictive now as I need it to be quieter to run on the street and certain tracks.

There is more power by changing the pulley size however, this will be done when Danny is confident. At this stage the 2.1 liter supercharger unit is not being spun to its full potential.

....still at the tuners:eyetwitch.

Hopefully back next week with all the idle and hesitation issues ironed out. Although I was getting used to it but, still annoying.

The next issue to resolve will be the catback exhaust. The new exhaust was toast after one track day. The heat near the tip was so high that the stainless steel had turned blue a the bend before the tips.

We believe these extreme temps where responsible for causing the exhaust can joints to split and crack welds.

I think the ceramic coated headers and he high flow cat is creating higher temps at the cat back area.

yeah I am working on having a custom built exhaust made that will suppress the sound to appropriate levels while still having all the flow I can use.

We are looking into a exhaust that is large with perforated pipe for flow and packed with steel wool or rock wool to suppress sound. It should also eliminate the hollow tinny sound as well.

Finally picked up the car from the tuners yesterday.

Idle issue is still not resolved however, a bit more manageable now. Danny is now looking at other mechanical ways to control the idle airflow.

The throttle responds is 100% better than what it used to be however, I think it could be still a bit better. I will drive the car a bit more over the weekend and then start looking into a solution for the exhaust.

I must admit the car is great to drive and the power is simply awesome as it comes on instantly . Temperatures seem under control as I sat in traffic on a 28 degree ambient the oil temp was sitting at 85 degrees.

I believe that this supercharger system is ideally suited to the car and you get power from the low rev range all the way to redline which matches the characteristics on the NA motor. It is just a shame that Hymee is no longer producing these units so others can enjoy the car in the same way as I can.

If you can get the Protuner mated to your ECU - the fix is very simple .

Went for a spirited mountain run yesterday. All went well from the engine perspective temps under 100 degrees.

However due to the extreme G forces I lost ABS DSC and hand brake light came on. This happened at the last track meet as well.

This problem started after I had a tyre puncture and had to replace one of the rear tyres. Unfortunately I could not get the same tyre as they are no longer available so I got one that had a similar tread pattern. The wear on the original set was minimal as they would have barely covered 2000km so the rolling diameter will be very similar.

It only seems to happen on spirited runs. The only solution that I can think of is to replace the other tyre to the same brand

Wa
I get exactly the same problem in my car, I do have different sized front tires and I know that is what causes the fault lights

Problem has not re appeared. I suspect it could have been from a loose sensor cable which I have now fixed.

First lot of bad fuel caused some misfires.

I have changed the oil which was very dirty and also found the spark plugs badly fouled.

Also changed the engine mounts as it was causing engine vibrations at high rpm. Apart from the usual idle issue still persisting everything is running well.

Waiting for the tuner to get back from overseas before I can address the idle issues.

Good luck with the Idle issues! Let me know how he fixes it. Also are you running a screen in your intake pre MAF?

I dont think I remember what year is your car? There are newer PN# engine mounts if you are a pre 2005. I may go with a a filled engine mount. I bet the SC kit puts a bunch more stress on the mounts.

i filled mine and if you do it right they will last a long time --going on 3 yrs for mine?
Not only does it help hold the engine--it also makes shifting better and the throttle response improves. Its a good mod.

we were going to do mine but we ran out of time for it....

...But yes, you will get much better power transfer with a filled motor mount. But you will also feel vibrations more.

My car has a 03 build date.

I installed a mazda speed mount which I got for $300.00. It is stiffer than stock however, it is still rubber and oil filled. I immediately noticed a slight vibration at idle due to the stiffness however the shift feels much better.

If this fails I may look into the solid mount.

I have the stock maf screens. However, I will look into other options.

Where should I place my maf screen. Is there a screen before the sensor (blower side) and one on the intake side?

I was thinking of just starting with a fly screen type material.

It seems he supercharger pulley is touching one of the ignition leads causing the green wire to fray. Looks like I need to relocate my ignition coil.

Also in the photo is what my current coil looks like. I has a small white spot. Do you think it needs replacement?

The screen needs to be put before the MAF. In a perfect world you would have a few inches before and after the maf of straight pipe with screen on each end.

Thanks for the heads up about the coil wire. I will keep an eye on it during my install. Here in the states it is a general rule to change your coils out every 10-15k miles. I run the BHR set up in anticipation of FI.

My coils have only travelled around 10 000km however, there is a slight white spot visible.

I am still experiencing slight misfires and I am not sure if it the frayed wire or the coil that is the cause. The frayed wire could cause a loss of spark.

If I was to extend the effected coil then is it just a matter of soldering a longer wire or is there a relocation harness available.

Yeah someone makes extension cables just cant for the life of me remember who it was at the moment.

Still struggling to find a suitable replacement connector. Spoke to one supplier and they are looking into the part for me. If they manage to locate the part then there is a minimum order of 100 connectors.

Most aftermarket coil suppliers are able to source the connectors required to connect into the OEM harness. All I need is the mating pair for the lead end or the part number from the extension connectors so I can look for the mating pair.

that looks salvageable--cut it, solder, it and use heat shrink
relocate the coils if you can?