one very important thing to note, if you see 20:1 afr while accelerating to any point, whether it is 15% throttle or 99% throttle, is a very bad thing and I/we advise to not drive the car if this is occurring. You need to start at a better tune. There are several tuners on this site that can help with a basic tune to get you started, but you will need to switch to a cobb to do it. You want to be rich to start your tuning experience, not lean!!!!

In all honesty if the goal is to sell the car, don't bother spending more on the turbo, remove the kit and sell it, make sure the car is in order then sell it too. This is the way you would get the most gains and least amount of problems. Good luck.

Cheers

that would be a good plan but he needs all stock parts because the car came turbo, doubt he has na mani and intake.

Come to website and ask for advice...
Argue about advice given....
WTF????

if you can find me a used one for 300 then i will buy it.

also i was wondering if i held the wastgate open, removed the block off plate in the intake, put a cold air intake on with the maf. Then unplug the emanage system to test the engine will that work?

No, it won't work and you'll blow it.
Spending 300$ for an accessPORT is not a big deal, the tune will cost you at least 200$ more.

why is anyone still helping this guy when he is unwilling to listen?

i am listening to what everyone is saying and im going to go back to stock if there is something wrong with the car when the engine is stock that would rule out the turbo problem then i might spend the money on the accessport if the trubo is the problem then i will return stock and sell the car that way.

We told you what the problems are. Draw your own conclusions.

you keep saying e manage is the problem. But the car was pulling good with emanage before.
i understand it is crap. but when i figure out whats exactly wrong with it im not going to by the accessport.

You need the accessPORT regardless, the emanage is a useless ecu that doesn't work in our application.
We told you there are many possible causes but you keep wasting time writing here.
Take your wrenches and start working, or find a good mechanic that can do what you can't.

i have been working on the car everyday. i have tried all of the test. i blocked off the bov, i pressure tested the system, i cleaned every sensor, i have run all new air hoses.

Some good advice in here . Consider this :

*Your goal is to sell the car
*the car is not running properly as is , with the turbo installed
*An RX8 is generally worth MORE without a turbo than it is WITH one .
*You can sell the turbo kit quite easily for good money.


Does that help you decide what to do ?

^ same advice I gave the S/C guy that bought his problem.

Separate the kit, sell it for decent money. Then either use that to put in a good engine, or sell the car with a known bad engine and between the two different transactions you have enough for quite a large down payment on a new car.

taking cluelessness to a whole new level ....

geez i now i have this actual car...just read all of this and is scaring me!!!!

i got the car a month ago..so far the car is running good..was back firing like crazy..had no bov..i added a bov and recirclate it..no more backfire..

No bov? Really? Did you recirculate?

So, I guess the question is:

Does it still have the emanage on it? :lol:


Still running 20:1? What all did he fix?

no more emanage..its running on cobb accessport mazdamaniac FI map

i havent did a compression test yet..after seeing this i will get one..

i unwrapped all the heat wrap and found that nothing was welded..all the flange were JB WELDed..GHETTO! lol....so i had it welded professionally..

At least its running decent engine management. JB welded flanges sound like the OP though.

I'm surprised no one said to check or post a pic of your plugs.

Plug reading is a must for any engine and application. Sounds like your having a mechanical issue and the plugs will tell you what it is, if you know how to read them properly. Or at least it will point you in the direction of your problem.

If I were you, I would take the plugs out you have in now and get a very clear close up of them. Then put new plugs in, do a 1-3 gear run and baby it back home. Take those plugs out and it will tell you a story of that run.

You will need to ask someone that has experience in plug reading. Its not something you can learn over night. Took me literally a 5 gallon bucket of used plugs that I ran to really understand what I was looking for/at. Each plug in that bucket was a run with n2o.

It is harder to read a turbo plug as n2o burns hotter getting a more complete combustion. Turbo applications will leave more carbon behind making it harder to read. But if you know what your looking for, you still can see exactly how the engine is running.

Post some very clear pics of them.