So i just got the afr while cruising it is 14.9:1
While idling it is the same 14.9:1 while boosting it goes to 12.2:1 and when i press the throttle all the way down it goes to 20.0:1

20:1 !!!!!!!!!!!! at WOT??????????????
:shocking:

Are you sure? Is this a typo?

At WOT you should be deep in to the 11's:1 afr .. even 10's

What kind of AFR gauge is it?

no this is correct and thats when it spits and sputters. Around 3500-5000 if i push on the throttle a little bit and i mean a little like a centimeter it will run ok but if i press down on the pedal the afr goes to 20.0:1 and bogs down.

I would be really careful about continuing to drive the car until you figure out what's going on.

I'm going to guess something is amiss with the eManage.
I don't know much about the eManage piggy back solution but I've never heard anything good about it.
I do know that there are some threads on the topic on this site along with some sort of "fix" involving a resistor that is soldiered in to place (or something)

reset your ecu to wipe fuel trims?

im not an expert by any means with turboing an 8 but i do know that a cobb and a tune is a lot cheaper than a rebuild

1. buy cobb accessport
2. remove greddy emanage and throw in trash
3. install cobb ap and tune
4. finished

what do you mean reset ecu fuel trims?

There is something seriously wrong there, and I would strongly suggest you either don't drive the car or baby the hell out of it until you get it properly tuned!

20:1 is extremely lean and you will end up blowing your engine if you haven't done so already. The only time you should see numbers that lean is under deceleration.

i have said this before. The car only runs with 20.0:1 when i press the gas pedal down further than a centimeter between 3500-5000 rpms. it runs good an pulls ok when i don't press the gas pedal down with good afr. when the turbo spools properly it has great afr.

:icon_no2:

May I respectfully suggest that you don't have a clue? The pervious owner blew the engine with your present setup. Replacing the engine still leaves the reasons for which it blew. Online 'tips' aren't going to replace you having the knowledge to solve these problems when you don't have a grasp of how the rotary functions in these cars. Either take it to a rotary pro, or spend a lot of time reading up on turbos and tuning. This pair of books will get you started:




Then read all of the stickies here related to turbos and engine management, then read a few turbo build threads. Park the car until you're done, and yes, it will take some months to digest.

Alternatively, continue driving and fiddling until the engine blows again, if it hasn't already.

This is enough to destroy the engine. It doesn't matter how "good" things are in other circumstances.

Rotaries are not good with detonation events. The knock sensors (if still functional) will not prevent it. Detonation will break apex seals or crack them to fail later. Because it's a side port engine, the pieces won't come out and will destroy the rotor, housings, and irons, turning the motor into an unrepairable mess.

It doesn't matter, reread my above post. Get your tune sorted out or you WILL blow the engine you just put in the car.

There are other things that could cause a lean condition but in my opinion it's your tune. The car seems to pull fine in first and second gear, which would make an issue with you fuel pump or injectors less likely.
It also seems to idle fine, which would suggest you don't have a vacuum leak.

I was gonna say... 20 AFR WOT under boost would be a certain ping/detonation event.... it'll happen at 12 let alone 20.

Clearly you have no desire to search and learn since you keep asking questions.
Bring the car to a good shop and let them do the work you clearly can't do on your own.
Then buy an accessPORT and have another specialist tune the car.

^this...

i dont have the money right now for the accessport. Does anyone have a used one for sale?
i have done the research and i have tested everything you have said to test. I am at my wits end with this.

If you don't have the money to buy an accessport + tuning service stop driving the car.
The same applies to bringing the car to a capable shop.

If you don't have 6\700$ for a tuning device + tuning chances are you don't even have the money to purchase a new engine.

ready? Buy an access port, like 30+ people have told you. This is the ONLY thing that will fix your tuning related issue. There is no shortcut or cheep fix.

Also, stop driving your car with the e-manage. If you continue to drive it you risk blowing the motor, which is 5-10x more expensive to fix than a new AP.

Discussion over, that is your problem; not sure why you keep dragging it out.

If you'd done the research, you'd know how to reset fuel trims (which has nothing to do with these problems btw), that Emanage sucks, that the Greddy BOV has problems, that 20:1 (or more since it won't report higher) under any condition other than throttle-off-in-gear coasting or initial warmup, risks blowing the engine, etc. You didn't do it, or don't understand it.

Regardless, given the fact you don't have the money to do the tuning right and to modify the Greddy to work (a path well-travelled), the advice you're getting is to park the car until you do. You don't like that advice. Your "deal" on this car was hardly a bargain. We can't help that. There is no easy way out, other than perhaps removing the turbo kit and re-installing the stock parts.

I say remove turbo and go NA. Sell the turbo kit to cover some of your loss.

if you cant buy an AccessPort then you definitely need to sell the turbo kit.

:rofl: I love when people tell me to come back to RX-8 Club to check out a thread. This thread has it all... clueless newbie using e-Manage, running 20:1 AFRs at WOT, no money to fix any of the mess that he inherited, probably his only car too.

Good times.

newb+boost=boom. followed by these cars are a pos

This is not my only car. I bought this one for 5000. I planned on fixing the problems selling it for more then buying the twin turbo for my 350z. And you obviously do not read im not at running a 20:1 and running the car a wot im pressing the pedal down a little more that a centimeter and it is doing it. Everyone has to start somewhere when jumping into the turbo world this is my first and im learning just as you all did when you bought your first turbo car.

then why are you not listening to what everyone is telling you? the big problem is the Greddy Emanage is a POS... tuning is everthing for a turbo system to work correctly...you can get used Cobb AP for around $300-$350...