To be fair, the mods above aren't needed. The int-x is nice though, and I use it too.

I paid less than $700 for act's prolite flywheel, counterweight, and heavy duty clutch. You'll never see anything close to 680 lb/ft torque on a rx-8.


I paid $130 for a greddy boost gauge, and $270 for the uego wideband.

 

Yeah the prices I posted are MSRP. You could cut costs by finding better prices elsewhere.

The original owner is the one that installed that clutch. I have no clue why he would choose the stage3+

 

are you able to shift smoothly?

 

I don't get any grinding but it's slightly notchy on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

I am replacing my transmission and differential fluids with royal purple max-gear 75w90 this week. Hopefully that will smooth things out.

 

I would advise against using Royal Purple trany fluids, it's been well documented here that it causes a lot of gear whine and noise.

Try Redline MT-90

 

I spent many hours reading about what fluid is best for our tranny. I have yet to read a negative post about RP 75w90.

I read many posts saying that MT-90 feels notchy when cold. 50% MT-90 and 50% MTL mix seems like it might improve shifting when cold.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/transmission-oil-life-royal-purple-versus-redline-104730/

 

I'm a rp user who ended up grinding. I think the fact that I used rp is a coincidence more than anything else. The transmission was opened up and the gears look like brand new. The main shaft has play in it though, so replacement looks likely.

 

I'm going off personal experience and experiences of those in our local Arizona Mazda owners club. Redline seems to be the favorite.

I can't comment about the cold because it doesn't get that cold here. You can mix it with MTL like you mentioned though to improve cold-weather notchiness.

 

Thanks for many comments. In short, should I go ahead and get GReddy turbo kit with minimum add-on such as BOV, catch tank, boost gauage? I checked the lead time for MM GReddy upgrade is around 4-6 weeks...Please advise.

 

Go for it!

You can get the GReddy turbo kit for less $$$ and progressively upgrade the kit as time goes on. Allot less harsh on your wallet that way.

Get the AEM Tru-boost gauge because it's also a boost controller. I would say a wideband gauge is more important.

 

Does it mean I should get both AEM tru-boost gauge and AEM wideband O2 sensor together? Anything else. Thanks. turborx8

 

Here is my list:
GReddy turbo kit w/EMU $3300
GReddy RS BOV $178
GReddy oil catch tank $84
AEM Tru Boost Gauge $300
AEM Uego 6 in 1 Gauge $290
Anything else?

 

That will cover the basics. Enjoy!

 

Thanks. How about gauge pod? any ideal where to get a decent one.

 

nice thread, sub'ed

I am currently trying to price out a turbo setup as well... Will probably go Greddy turbo and then replace with the MM upgrade once that fails.

For a street-driven car, how important is an upgraded radiator / oil pan?

 

I haven't bothered upgrading my radiator yet.

The oil pan upgrade gives you something like a half quart more oil, which means more cooling capacity since 30% of your engine is cooled by oil.

The main reason why I did the greddy oil pan upgrade is so that I can drain my oil without disconnecting the oil return line. The greddy pan has 2 oil drains, so one for turbo, the other one you can install a fumoto valve You can of course tap your OEM pan, but I'd rather just get the upgraded pan for $250.

 

I decided to mount mine on the steering column with AutoMeter mounting cups.

 

Good point about the drain.. But if you're on a budget there's a way to save $250 right there

So theoretically the distilled "safe" greddy setup would be something like

- greddy kit + fixes
- management (my pref would be EMU personally)
- BOV (mysql, that one you were giving rave reviews looks pretty cool, how much was it?)
- guages + wideband

Oh! How about exhaust? Does anyone run a turbo with the stock exhaust? I was thinking of putting in a high flow cat but leave the stock catback?

To the OP: you never mentioned what your desired power level is. That will pretty much determine whether the greddy is enough for you or if you have to aim higher for a kit (and budget!!)

 

If the GReddy kit gets boring then you know it's time to upgrade to the GT3071R turbo.

mysql's BOV is very cool. I wonder how it would compare to the GReddy TypeRS with the anti-stall module.



http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

 

It's $200 shipped from geoff@titanmotorsports.com

I had the greddy type-s, and the turboxs rfl bov before. The rfl sounds the best, but it can't compare to the synchronic bov.

 

Lol, thats exactly why you are using the $1600 Mazsport interceptor X.

 

That doesn't in any way negate the fact that the car can be run with the EMU perfectly fine.

If you're going to say something sucks, back it up with some substance.

 

^ Yup , you should go synchronic

 

Lol, yes, the reason why every blown FI engine on here has been a greddy kit is because its amazing.

Yes, it can be run with the greddy blue EMU perfectly fine if you want 30 hp over stock

 

*rolls eyes*

Do you even understand that blue != emu, and they don't sell blue kits anymore?

Don't get me started about your stats. GReddy kits were out before anything else. Given 2+ years after everything has been figured out, of course there's less issues now than in the past.