transmission will be in next week....

.....

Is there some type of bolt-on upper piece to keep that modified mount from eventually breaking without it?

Its meaning modded, those aren't final pics...

Ok, looking good just the same

The transmission was deliverd yesterday it also had looked better than my old one i use to have, I couldnt find the fuel rail insulator but i ordered one an will be picking that up today. and i will be by on friday.

Shes in...

Almost 60% finished with this thing. Im almost tempted to ship the car to the new shop...

While your in there get rid of that ratty looking sound deading crap. Oh nice to see it have a motor again.

Good point... ill have it all cleaned and make sure I have the deading crap removed for you lol..I always wanted to removed it.

Decided to do an update I usually just look at other peoples post i thought about selling but then I wana sellong the motor since its fully built but then I'm like I just wana see this bitch run. Just as I people comparing turbo kits at what not even if I had a different turbo setup motor still was built by turblown so they still would get credit no matter what no turbo 8 is alike and will never be. My goal is still 500hp

Gas as yall already know is what is causing this carbon buildup and it lokks about normal to me for a 40K engine? You want cleaner and you are FI then install a water meth system.
Dude--not to say anyone is wrong or anything, but I would advise very strongly to NOT delete the omp on this engine.
Oil injection is not the reason for carbon buildup ( you know that) and if you will read Eric Meyer's post on his anaylisis of using the omp or deleting the omp you will see why you shouldnt.
The side seals are not properly lubricated without the omp---the side ports on this engine makes it not like the older models in which you can pre mix only and do ok.
Dont forget to test the oil nozzles before remounting--they are starting to show their age on a lot of engines too.
There is something to be said about local builds versus way off builds. Sure agree with you there. Mazmart has said they are not that familar with an renesis FI build. But, they are learning and it shouldnt take Rick long to learn!!

Good point i have read pages and pages about the omp and the good and the bads. I did check out that post that Rick a while back from what I see its been debated for a while. What I don't like about it is that even of its hooked up and it goes out there isn't a limp mode from messing up the engine that I know of. I just like to make things less complex. I really like to see some data on someone running with out one for about 20,000 miles.

I see what u mean as protecting the investment.

while i totally respect your decisions on your engine/ car, i tend to agree with the points olddragger made in his last post.

while i totally believe in premixing and a functional MOP used in tandem with my pre-Renesis rotaries, i stopped premixing with my Rx-8 because i still haven't convinced myself that it's not responsible for the troubles i had with my fuel filter/pump. i plan on trying again (this time with the stuff i get from Amsoil) when i get my 8 out of storage.

that said, i'm sure you'll enjoy your car when it's done. in my limited experiences with him, Elliot is good people and he knows what he's doing.

Yes Elliot is good I wouldnt doubt him one bit. Ima try to premix I know I read about the omp and such people who premix with get f..d and people who don't still get f...d so idk

I'll throw my .02 cents in.
As some know I'm a pre-mix only as the MOP had to be remove for the DP. Could the DP been made diffrent to allow space for the MOP? Sure, we're only dealing with Time, material and space constraints.
But as the referance kit for Turblown top mount setup, for now oh well. I digress.

I like many others have read the threads To Pre-mix, Pre-mix and Run the MOP, or just the MOP and not Pre-mix.
Since i can only chime in on the Pre-mix only setup and now have 7k on the Top mount, i have not seen a diffrence at idle vac. It stays around -20in Hg (no load/ park or N).

What i have noticed is depending on the amount of premix added the vaccum will change when the keg is cold and when it's warmed up.

The 8 runs best (imho) with 13 gal of gas and 8 oz of pre-mix. so this is a 200:1 ratio pre-mix X gas.
I get a stable vac reading at -15 In Hg at a stop light. Warm or cold motor.

If i do a 100:1 ratio which is 13 Gals of Gas to 16.6 oz of pre-mix, the car will "hunt" between 15 -In Hg and -10 In Hg. At a stop light on a Warm or Cold motor

I feel a 200:1 is too "lean", but without tearing the motor down, Who really knows ? My last comp check was at 90psi both rotors and all 3 faces were really close to each other.

We will really not know the long term pros or cons of just a pre-mix only configuration until there are more of us. Then how do we weigh in the factors of Drive style, enviromental temps, the upkeep, ect?

Mine a reman from the Allied Tech rebuilders that did the first remans. I will drive it till it breaks and go from there.

Saucy, I'd really like to see your project be completed. Its been down just a little longer than mine was. Tis so damn close now, stay the course. Many of us would like to see that 500 whp you're going for.

Agreed that pre mix versus omp versus both has a lot of speculation and many different opinions from very creditable people.
However, the only documented data collection concerning the affect that this has on the corner/side seals that I know off comes from Eric Meyer, who imho is the undisputed data collecting king. He has battled getting more hours out of this engine than anyone i know. He has been fighting that 10-20 hp reduction in power after only a few days on the track for a while now. During that time he discovered the value the omp provides.
Now a forced inducted engine that is driven on the street versus a NA high rpm track only engine is a different beast, I do grant that. Still, accelerated corner/ side seal degradation in engines that he has ran without the omp was seen and it is repeatable.
Drop him a PM. He will share his findings--he is that kind of guy.
If at all possible i will run the omp.
Have any of yall studied the S2 model omp? God, i wish that could be placed on the S1 models. That omp actually puts pressure to the oil nozzles, among other stuff. It is sooooo much better.
Looking forward in following this build.
OD

Thanks OD.. now its fuel system setup. Right now I'm looking to do a system that is almost kinda like a bulletproof setup. I already have the fuel rails. Next would be the automotive fuel pump. The thing is about the fuel starvation issues , I have a guy that would like to do an external anti surge take to make sure it will keep flow at all times. Would this be necessary or is it overkill. Pretty much all said and done it fuel setup is good for over 800+HP not that I'm trying to go that high its all just piece of mind I guess..

Update: bump

Since I'm still waiting on items, Im just looking for thing to do on the car. I drop the transmission the throwout being needs to be replaced with a couple bolts just waiting for those to come in and also took off the sound material for 09factor lol , it does make the engine bay look nicer.

I have so much time on my hands I'm going to create my own turbo manifold. ill see how that goes.

hopefully I can get everything I needed in so i can start the motor sometime at the end of June. ill be running stock injectors with the kg fuel rails until I break the motor in.
other than just waiting on thing I'm putting some lowering springs on the car to keep me busy till then.

I think I over spent on my cooler setup This mod is not for the weak hearted but u can go basic if u want..
The set up is

2x Setrab dual 25 Row oil coolers
Mounting brackets
-12an lines and fittings
Hamburger oil filter adapter
Areomotive -12 y-fitting
Mazmart oil pressure mod

I just over spent on this build entirely and still wana let me know if this oil setup is over kill

Trying to get a since idea on how to mount this oil cooler up setup with -an lines

Update dam near done 30% left to finish.

Those are great coolers ;)

I haven't had a chance to run mine hard yet...still breaking it in ( have < 100 miles on it :) )

Looking forward to no overheating issues

Yeah I know it's over kill but I don't think the oil will have an issue

Looking good dude. Great cooler choice like Dan says. What kind of thermostat?
I would recommend a fan controller ( I dont think the pcm can be made to turn both fans on at the same time--always?). Adding one to my car made all the difference in the world.
I have always liked the Black--rx8's with black enkei rpf 1's--they just look---evil:)

I'm running a mocal 180degree thermostat

It will just make your engine run too cool when cruising on the highway

The coolers? Or the thermostat? ;)

Yeah mocal only had an 180 degree or 200 thermostat. Since I know the oil cooler will make it run cool I have something to prevent that.

In the home stretch..

my stupid bad, thought you referred to the engine coolant t-stat

for the oil coolers that is a most excellent choice :)

Somewhat similar to where mine is positioned.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6633144467/

Yeah I know. I had only found a one place to put it to make it easy to get to plus this thing is big. But overall it will be up and running by Friday if nothing else.

Has to pull off the ac compressor due to oil fitting being in the way. I'm going to replace it with another fitting. Just under a deadline to get it started. Plus I don't new the any ac right now...

Just note when running the oil loop line and running oil lines make sure u check the fitting when plumbing or the ac compressor will not be able to bolt on..

Bump

looks like a good upgrade - are you able to do an comparison testing ?

Havnt really did a comparison testing except doin custom setup cost more money. Lol

sorry if i post here but i need help from you who is doing it now.
i am trying to do my oil cooler set up since my oil cooler , the fins, got messed up.
can you show me more pics of the lines please...do i need the sandwich for oil filter? how did it get hooked up?
i am just trying to get to know the path of the oil, where it comes out from :dunno:
and where it ends up..
planning just to get CXracing cooler 13ROW and custom line. do i really need a thermostat?
steven

Yes you do need a thermostat
Turblown oil loop line $999
Setrab 25 row oil coolers $376
Custom Brackets $65
Mocal oil thermostat $150
Mazmart oil pressure mod $75
Custom hoses and fittings $650 =2,315

This setup is overkill I thing I just went over board that's all.

Oil comes out of the front cover banjo bolt...goes to the drivers side cooler..then to passenger side cooler...then to filter...then to engine...

You need a thermostat for sure...otherwise your car will never come up to temperature

If you are going to go with custom lines buy 2 M18X1.5 to -10AN adapters for the block and use -10 fittings for the lines....

You are looking at a fairly big cost...so maybe check out the prices before you commit to doing it that way. You can pick up a stock cooler for a lot less than that :)

Yes just its a lot cheaper if the to just replace it sometimes I wish I kept stock oil coolers. Unless you don't mind a bunch of down time and custom work go for it.

damn, you can buy the down pipe set up and teh turbo with that money...lol...
25 rows ? that's a huge one...i was planning to get just the 13 rows..:lol:
there are alot of thermostat after market, but mocal is one of the best i heard. i guess i will get that one if i do teh upgrade.
can't we buy our own line and fittings then make them? just curious, or there is a special thing that is hard to do? just wondering...sorry if i ask a lot of question, but just in learning process...

that's what i am looking for...the line, and thank you dannobre....

i am looking for the used one, but still, i don't even k now if the fin will be any good anyway, but before i go ahead with the upgrade, i am trying to fix teh fins first and add the fans for both... i will use the FIN COMB to fix the fins, and i will see...
the info you gave me is really nice...thank you one more time
steven

I would install a second oversize remote oil filter between the front cover banjo bolt and the first cooler, but that is just me ... ;)

LOL.....Before the thermostat is even better ;)

Go front cover to filter then to thermostat, drivers cooler, passenger cooler...back into engine :)

status update all the lines are primed and have oil in them now no leaks.

The car is alive and breathing.........

My cars sounds good as fuck people.. The car sounds mean as hell it's sounds like an rx7 which is crazy my custom single greddy exhaust sound is nice and deep and sounds like it means business. It's way deeper than the dual greddy setup sp2 with no raspyness what's so ever. Idle is good no problems at all.

Im running the areomotive fuel pump and its working good to. When u get ready to start the car u can feel the pump activate underneath my feet.

But until then I'm in the breakin period of this motor.

Congrats!

Congrats. You can feel the fuel pump activate under your feet? I don't get it. What did the problem end up being as to why it would not stay running?

Well to me it sound and feels like a a quick flow of water rushing thru under my feet just before I turn it on, well to me anyways. The issue was all 4 coil packs were toast now that being said it did not throw any codes or misfires at all But that fixed the whole issue.

Your funny dude, that's just crazy talk. Glad the coils were the problem but you put a new engine in and put used coils on it?