At 260 degrees the motor un-sandwiches.

 

Do you know if the brackets had to be changed when they went to the d series blower?

Mazdatrix had belt slippage issues on their race car, they solved the problem with the pulley coating which is what I have done to my 12 psi pulley.

I wonder how much effect the location of the blower and specificaly the air intake had on the life of the blower. Sitting above the radiator and 200+ deg air cant be good. Thats why I plan to build a cold air intake box.

 

I dont doubt with a regular water/coolant mix it will come apart at 260, but at 260 degrees that coolant mixture is boiling and no longer cooling the motor at all. So there are parts in the motor reaching temps far above 260. With evans npg you wont have the boiling, huge localized temp increases or engine failure. How hot can you go if the boiling can be controlled? I have no idea but its nice to know my coolant wont be boiling.

 

On my previous RX8 my coolant reached 271f due to both of my coolant fans failing in NYC tunnel traffic no less.

The motor went on to live a long and healthy life .. until the car was totaled.

 

The issue is the housings would expand enough that the coolant seal pops out of place.

This is using a nearly 100% distilled water mix with redline water wetter. I'm not sure if there was a stock radiator cap or not.

Either way, there is no reason that an engine should see temperatures that high under normal operating conditions or even race conditions. If you're seeing temperatures above 240 degrees then your cooling system needs to be looked at.

 

No cooling system or overheating issues at this point for me. I am using Evans NPG-R for more of a safety net but aiming to keep things in the normal range.

 

a couple of times on my procharged rx8 in 125f+ with 98% humidity (with hood or without hood) i did manage to max out the oem temp guage
(no logging or aftermarket guage at that time) with a kayo rad, mazmart waterpump and tstat.
it would only happen obiously after flying down the emirates road at 240KM+ then taking a very short off ramp.
i ended up installing a zergo 3600cfm push fan to the front which solved my issues. the oem fans were operating normally.
(plus helped with the a/c alot specially at idle) i even played with the oem plastic skidplate and made an aluminum one.
all i can say is dont drive at all without it because you overheat very quickly.

 

Sent an email to DNA to see what they have to say about upgrading to the d1-sc compressor. What required and performance advantages. Its a bigger compressor capible of more power, but thats not why I would upgrade.

Response from DNA: Compressor is geared for same power levels, they changed so they would not need to stock more then 1 supercharger. All their other kits use the D1SC. New brackets are required, CNC Billet Aluminum is Pricey so I think I will be holding off.

Also, according to DNA Jeffery (talic) is the only Procharged RX8 with a premature compressor failure. They said something about 200KM/h+ runs for over an hour straight in the hot desert is not good for the blower. His blower had extreme blasting through the impeller.

The d1-sc is available with a helical gear set which will make it run much quieter. Plus it uses 6OZ of oil not 3oz. So I suspect that may help it last longer. I was reading and heard that procharger will upgrade from one to another for about $1000-$1200 and they might have the same mounting bracket. So my only mods would be the pulley size, airfilter (maybe) and the intecooler pipe I might need a reducer coupler.

 

I've been running Evans NPG-R coolant since 2005.

 

So obviously you like the stuff. But do you find it runs hotter, cooler or is it just a safety net?

 

this pic is from Prestone. based on 50/50 mixes. note this is at atmosphere so depending on the cap you have these values would have to be adjusted for vapor pressure

 

so what would it be with the oem cap?
OD

 

I dont know exactly, but taken from http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm

With a 50/50 mix the non-pressureized temp is 223F and in a 14-15psi system (ours is 13psi) that temp is increased another 45deg. So, in the 260-270 range.

However, we all know that some parts of the motor will be hotter then ever and not all areas will have the same pressure, so locaized boiling can occur. Again, my reason for using evans NPG.

I also dont find it a coincidence that the the claimed failing temp for the motor is 260 and the boiling point is around 260-270.

 

It runs a bit hotter as far as the overall coolant temperature, but that's because it's doing exactly as you describe. Boil-over is a thing of the past for the same reasons.

Evans recommends using the OE radiator cap with NPG-R.

 

Were they running the standard belt tension? I would hate to add more deflection to the shafts.

 

I believe mazdatrix is using a different tensioner to get the belt tighter but that didnt help much. The big help was the pulley coating. I have read up on the coating and it is becoming popular with many superchargered vehicles. Even when people thought their belt wasnt slipping, the coating improved boost from reduced slippage.

 

Hello, thx for your topic Highway.


I'm close to buy this kit, but i really have to do things simply, rotary is really missing some specialists around here. Do you think the mazdatrix's set for their procharger stage 2 ( the "bigger" pulley ) would be easy to install for a random professionnal guy, not a rotary specialist as i say ? Should i go for the low end set, to avoid some installation troubles ?

And last thing, do i have to upgrade some components on my car ? I do no have anything for the engine by now, only an useless K&N air filter, AP pulley, magnecor ignition wires and an exedy stage 2 + flywheel waiting for installation. On exhaust line, a knight sports header, exotic speed catless pipe and xs power catback... Should i upgrade with a CAI, or add any sort of ram air etc.. ?

Give us news, and videos ! Thanks a lot, and sorry for my english ;(

 

First off, Mazdatrix does not make the kit, they only sell to the USA market on behalf of DNA Motorsports. They stock nothing and would have to order from DNA in Australia. So you should contact DNA about purchasing a kit, not mazdatrix.

DNA changed up the kit and how the sell it. They are using a bigger D1 compressor which is available in a quiet gear verson if you want a more stealth vehicle. Also they no longer sell a stage 1 or stage 2, I believe its just a choice of pulley size (PSI amount).

The kit works fine with a stock vehicle but upgrades like Ignition, lightweight flywheel and exhaust will help. The KIT incldues a nice ceramic coated header but you could use the knightsport and just dont have DNA ship/sell their header. The kit also comes with a battery relocation kit (trunk) but you dont need it either if you want to do your own relocation.

A aftermarket or ram intake wont work with the kit, except maf intake tube if you want to have it as a blow through maf system like I have done. In which case you will need a AEM intake and a flash device like the Cobb Accessport.

Fuel injectors: The kit comes with 600CC injectors but you can have your stock injectors modified for less.

The kit is not hard to install for any mechanic or person with basic knowledge and handtools.

FYI: Bigger pulley means lower PSI. Smaller pulley spins faster and is the higher PSI.

The most important thing with any FI kit is tunning. So be sure you have a tunner lined up before buying any kit.

Hope that helps.

 

Ty highway, i know for DNA, on their site, they sell the kit for 12000 AUD, on mazdatrix, 7995 US dollars.... That's why i was looking for mazdatrix first.

For me in euros, it means 8100 EUR on DNA motorsports and 5600 EUR with mazdatrix... This is an huge difference I can't understand an as big gap... Gotta send a mail to each one to know more about it.


Well. I got a tuner close to my home who's interested, but i was also wondering if an hymee pro-tuner would work.

Ty again.

 

Mazdatrix has not updated their price, it has to be more. But keep in mind the price will go down as you remove parts like the header, powermod ecu (if you go with hymee or the AP) and injectors.

Yes the hymee pro-tuner would work (its a flash device) and you could set it up as a blow through system. The key to the blow through system is having a proper MAF tube with screens. AEM intake is the easiest way. Just cut the pipe DNA supplys and use a reducer coupler to connect the DNA pipe with the AEM pipe.

 

i did the install in my drive way in 11 hours using the mazda rx8 oem jack and a simple tool case.
only pain in the *** is the lucky number 10 on the uim but everyone faces that problem. its almost impossible to reach either need small hands or universal joint to use a wratchet.
the only issue you may face with the stage 2 is the header bolts
but i just double wrenched it and they came out. other then that no reason to not go stage 2

secondly if you buy directly from dnamotorsports it uses the p series charger and will actually cost more then buying the older c2 series from mazdatrix
however with my exerience with the c2s when it dies switch it over the the p series and get an updated map from dnamotorsports

as for upgrades a larger exhaust, some bhr coils, fresh plugs. and upgraded pump is all the neccessities
however clutch/flywheel. mazmart pump, radiator, oil pans, 2stroke sohn, etc etc wouldnt hurt either

 

Thank you too talic, i'm mailing mazdatrix atm.

Email gone, i'll send on to DNA too...

 

Ok, mazdatrix confirmed the price and if i do not need the header and the powermod, it s a way cheaper, like 6500 dollars for the most efficient pull, the smallest.

I m ordering in two week if everything's fine.

 

heads up to rig up an intake for maf based and the cobb would be difficult
and not sure if anything other then the powermod would work best.
but if you can manage new pipe work im sure the cobb would make it nice
keep in mind the recirculation valve they give you from procharger doesnt seal 100%
and makes a very loud pop sound under boost since its a simple butterfly valve

 

no it's easy, read my build. I am using the coob.