Need help troubleshooting - Pettit Supercharger and multiple engines
#52
Check the line for the boost gauge I think y'all ran that to one of the service port nipples. We installed the motor and bought all new vacuum lines moon did the wiring and blower install you were there for that can you think of anything that wasn't hooked up or not capped off? I think i remember you saying moon deleted an actuator or bypassed it but I know moon was zip tying the new lines when I left. I was thinking something like that would show up during the tune so it was obviously failure afterwards.
#53
I guess I am a noob lol. I did break that banjo bolt on the omp when I was swapping stuff over remember Matt. That's why I left when moon got there... because I was a noob. But seriously though I know you and I did our part right and I know moon did his part right. Also I have no doubt that Kane did a stand up job and wouldn't have completed the tune if there was a problem. So the fact is you had a vacuum issue after all of that. Moon and I had the vacuum discussion and told you you needed to keep you eye on that because Denny had the same issue. I can't ride along with you everywhere and read the access port out to you. That's why its mounted on the dash. Vacuum needs to be monitored as closely as afr.
I still think that motor was far from perfect from the get go though.
I still think that motor was far from perfect from the get go though.
#54
Check the line for the boost gauge I think y'all ran that to one of the service port nipples. We installed the motor and bought all new vacuum lines moon did the wiring and blower install you were there for that can you think of anything that wasn't hooked up or not capped off? I think i remember you saying moon deleted an actuator or bypassed it but I know moon was zip tying the new lines when I left. I was thinking something like that would show up during the tune so it was obviously failure afterwards.
#55
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Monitoring vacuum while driving will tell you nothing really. There are many ways to find a vacuum leak, I suggest you look at some vids on youtube. Vacuum leaks can happen, stuff can blow off under boost, etc. It won't make oil pour out of the bottom but an oil leak can happen in a few places easily.
#56
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Not sure what you mean by this?
I could see a few scenarios where it's possible, including getting oil overflow into the intake that then gets pushed out of the vacuum leak point under pressure. Vacuum line problems can also cause the crankcase to get pressurized, which can force the oil all sorts of unpleasant places.
I could see a few scenarios where it's possible, including getting oil overflow into the intake that then gets pushed out of the vacuum leak point under pressure. Vacuum line problems can also cause the crankcase to get pressurized, which can force the oil all sorts of unpleasant places.
#57
I needed this car to be reliable, that's why I paid to have it put in and checked and tuned by people that know what their doing. Didn't think I would have to do a vaccum test and go over everything before I take it out for a ride. I wish y'all would have just said bad motor from the start. Coincidence or not the guy that installed the supercharger and the guy that tuned my car had blown motors at the time. Just saying
#58
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Correct. Rotaries are not know for their reliability even naturally aspirated. Under forced induction any remaining reliability goes out the window. Even more so for the RX-8s than for the RX-7s because our engines were never designed for boost. LOTS of problems introduced by adding a supercharger or turbocharger.
If you need reliability, get a 2nd car. I don't mean that harshly or sarcastically. It's pretty much a straight up fact.
If you need reliability, get a 2nd car. I don't mean that harshly or sarcastically. It's pretty much a straight up fact.
#59
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+1, expecting a boosted re-manufactured renny to be reliable was your first mistake. But, not all the blame can be put on the motor, you don't even know if the engine is the problem, you are just guessing.
Something went wrong, you just need to figure what it is.
Something went wrong, you just need to figure what it is.
#60
And stop blaming the rotary in general. This can happen to any type of engine. Look at the Geo metro it has a 1.3l 3 cylinder. Now compare that to the 1.3l rotary smoother and three times the power granted it gets three times less mileage lol. Now put enough boost on the metro to equal the rotary in naturally aspirated form... how reliable do you think that would be. Its all relative... failures happen and you can't blame the platform or the motor. You want a fast car just like the rest of us but you have to be willing to accept some issues along the way. We have always joked that you have **** luck but you can't take stuff like this personally. As hard as people in this forum are on each other they are still going to help because they share the same passion. You just need to think about your angle at asking for help. I have no problem backing you up or helping you get this straightened out... even by trowing myself to the wolves as I apparently have.
All I'm saying is have thick skin about this whole thing. People can be rough on here that's why I have a low post count. I try to read and learn before asking. And 9k knows what he's doing he's been boosting cars for years... but he has made mistakes and had failures along the way. But he also openly admits to it when he does... and he sucks it up and learns from it. You and I must do the same... so let's retrace our steps and we will get through this. If it takes all winter so be it you can ride to work with me.
All I'm saying is have thick skin about this whole thing. People can be rough on here that's why I have a low post count. I try to read and learn before asking. And 9k knows what he's doing he's been boosting cars for years... but he has made mistakes and had failures along the way. But he also openly admits to it when he does... and he sucks it up and learns from it. You and I must do the same... so let's retrace our steps and we will get through this. If it takes all winter so be it you can ride to work with me.
#61
Maybe you shoot some photos of the engine.. This will help all of us..
RIWWP I agree with you if you wanna boost change port designs.. MSP engine port designs gives more stress thats why engines are blown..
RIWWP I agree with you if you wanna boost change port designs.. MSP engine port designs gives more stress thats why engines are blown..
#63
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Trial and error, that is just how it goes regardless of the type of car you are modding. You can either suck it up and move one and fix the problem or you can ditch and buy an easier car to mod. Owning a boosted rotary takes a higher level of commitment.
#66
And stop blaming the rotary in general. This can happen to any type of engine. Look at the Geo metro it has a 1.3l 3 cylinder. Now compare that to the 1.3l rotary smoother and three times the power granted it gets three times less mileage lol. Now put enough boost on the metro to equal the rotary in naturally aspirated form... how reliable do you think that would be. Its all relative... failures happen and you can't blame the platform or the motor. You want a fast car just like the rest of us but you have to be willing to accept some issues along the way. We have always joked that you have **** luck but you can't take stuff like this personally. As hard as people in this forum are on each other they are still going to help because they share the same passion. You just need to think about your angle at asking for help. I have no problem backing you up or helping you get this straightened out... even by trowing myself to the wolves as I apparently have.
All I'm saying is have thick skin about this whole thing. People can be rough on here that's why I have a low post count. I try to read and learn before asking. And 9k knows what he's doing he's been boosting cars for years... but he has made mistakes and had failures along the way. But he also openly admits to it when he does... and he sucks it up and learns from it. You and I must do the same... so let's retrace our steps and we will get through this. If it takes all winter so be it you can ride to work with me.
All I'm saying is have thick skin about this whole thing. People can be rough on here that's why I have a low post count. I try to read and learn before asking. And 9k knows what he's doing he's been boosting cars for years... but he has made mistakes and had failures along the way. But he also openly admits to it when he does... and he sucks it up and learns from it. You and I must do the same... so let's retrace our steps and we will get through this. If it takes all winter so be it you can ride to work with me.
#67
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I'm not working on it anymore lol. I'll keep paying on it until the loan gets low enough for someone that wants to buy a blown up car. I have a 2nd car that is very reliable but I really regret trading in my GTO for this rx8 that I can't drive. The things been on the rollback and shipped back and forth to different Mazda lots 5 months out of the 7 months I've owned it. I don't have anymore money to mess with it. I have 2 kids and a house to pay for. I didn't know I was getting in to all this. Well except for all the people I ignored that told me not to buy a rotary but I was too hard headed to listen because it was so nice.
#68
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If you are serious about just dumping it, pull off the Pettit kit, see if you can get verification that all the parts are accounted for, and sell it here. Someone else put a Pettit kit up for sale for $3,500 two days ago and it sold almost exactly 24 hours later. It's the first Pettit kit I've seen for sale this year to the best of my memory. They are highly desired and sell quick.
At that point you have an NA 8 with a blown engine, which is worth about another $3,500-$4,000, or you can take the money from the S/C sale and replace the engine with a quality one that will last 80,000+ miles easily (unless you run it out of oil or overheat it, etc...)
Just tossing the options out there. You have a very valuable and desired hunk of hardware on the car that won't increase the sale value of the car by the same amount. Splitting the two will net you far more.
That F/S thread, for reference: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...harger-238484/
At that point you have an NA 8 with a blown engine, which is worth about another $3,500-$4,000, or you can take the money from the S/C sale and replace the engine with a quality one that will last 80,000+ miles easily (unless you run it out of oil or overheat it, etc...)
Just tossing the options out there. You have a very valuable and desired hunk of hardware on the car that won't increase the sale value of the car by the same amount. Splitting the two will net you far more.
That F/S thread, for reference: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...harger-238484/
#69
Jez I can't believe you are just gonna give up. But Like I said you can ride with me buddy. I guess the pettits going on my car I'll get the money lined up. I might have to ride with you though because the supercharger will blow my car up too... or was it the rotary engine... oh well I hope I have some **** luck too so you won't be so hard on yourself. Yep I said it... I hope for catastrophe on myself because I hate seeing my best friend have to endure it all. Guess I'm done in this thread...back to lurking and reading.
#70
If you are serious about just dumping it, pull off the Pettit kit, see if you can get verification that all the parts are accounted for, and sell it here. Someone else put a Pettit kit up for sale for $3,500 two days ago and it sold almost exactly 24 hours later. It's the first Pettit kit I've seen for sale this year to the best of my memory. They are highly desired and sell quick.
At that point you have an NA 8 with a blown engine, which is worth about another $3,500-$4,000, or you can take the money from the S/C sale and replace the engine with a quality one that will last 80,000+ miles easily (unless you run it out of oil or overheat it, etc...)
Just tossing the options out there. You have a very valuable and desired hunk of hardware on the car that won't increase the sale value of the car by the same amount. Splitting the two will net you far more.
That F/S thread, for reference: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...harger-238484/
At that point you have an NA 8 with a blown engine, which is worth about another $3,500-$4,000, or you can take the money from the S/C sale and replace the engine with a quality one that will last 80,000+ miles easily (unless you run it out of oil or overheat it, etc...)
Just tossing the options out there. You have a very valuable and desired hunk of hardware on the car that won't increase the sale value of the car by the same amount. Splitting the two will net you far more.
That F/S thread, for reference: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...harger-238484/
#71
It definitely wasn't funny on the radio in Afghanistan, but it seems like the same story continues to play out every time we have joint fires training. I don't get it 'little bullet, big sky' I mean I couldn't hit a helicopter if i tried, but for some reason they are scared shitless of them.
But back on topic... Has this motor been compression checked? To me this seems pretty easy (as far as concept). Fix established vacuum leak, check compression and oil leaks, rebuild engine if unnecessary, re-install.
Honestly I am not sure who the bigger sucker is, the person who botched a Pettit install and unloaded the car on a dealer, or the guy who bought a botched FI RX-8 with 2 blown motors thinking it would be easy to fix.
But back on topic... Has this motor been compression checked? To me this seems pretty easy (as far as concept). Fix established vacuum leak, check compression and oil leaks, rebuild engine if unnecessary, re-install.
Honestly I am not sure who the bigger sucker is, the person who botched a Pettit install and unloaded the car on a dealer, or the guy who bought a botched FI RX-8 with 2 blown motors thinking it would be easy to fix.
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