MY Esmeril turbo kit DYNO results
#30
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#31
Yea....the whole wastegate position is something after it was all put on a real concern. The lines LOOK like they are hanging, but they are tight against wtvr it is they have it by I haven't really gotten a GOOD look under there.
But, there IS a possiblility still of maybe a stick or something that I might runover and gettin caught. But, it's not that much of a problem anymore.
But, there IS a possiblility still of maybe a stick or something that I might runover and gettin caught. But, it's not that much of a problem anymore.
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The numbers are really faint at the bottom but it looks like the graph starts at 3005 rpm and ends at 7990. The HP is peaking and starting to go down so that could make sense.
"Guess i should hit refresh on the browser more often I didnt see someone allready posted the RPM range"
"Guess i should hit refresh on the browser more often I didnt see someone allready posted the RPM range"
Last edited by baysj; 07-16-2008 at 02:18 PM.
#34
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You don't think the renny can handle 400? Like you say 50 hp diff. really isnt much...am I at risk right now?? I know the tranny will have a hard time in the 400 range, which would need ot be upgraded as well. Isnt Jeff around 360 whp?
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#36
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#37
going up 100 whp is easy, almost no risk. But as you inch closer to the edge, it becomes exponentially more difficult to make sure nothing breaks.
The renesis engine has a bad reputation for breaking, but having seen what it can do both inside and out, I would say it's a fairly hearty engine if properly maintained, and properly tuned. With that said, I still wouldn't want to try for 400 whp. I don't think it's possible on pump gas, as you'd need bandaid solutions to manage it. It wouldn't be a DD in that condition.
The renesis engine has a bad reputation for breaking, but having seen what it can do both inside and out, I would say it's a fairly hearty engine if properly maintained, and properly tuned. With that said, I still wouldn't want to try for 400 whp. I don't think it's possible on pump gas, as you'd need bandaid solutions to manage it. It wouldn't be a DD in that condition.
#38
Power!!
Shouldn't the torque and HP be equal at 5250rpm? Presumably these are on the same scale but you have AFR on the y axis not torque or HP so I can't tell. Can they email you the file so you can create a graph with hp and torque numbers on the y axis?
#39
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going up 100 whp is easy, almost no risk. But as you inch closer to the edge, it becomes exponentially more difficult to make sure nothing breaks.
The renesis engine has a bad reputation for breaking, but having seen what it can do both inside and out, I would say it's a fairly hearty engine if properly maintained, and properly tuned. With that said, I still wouldn't want to try for 400 whp. I don't think it's possible on pump gas, as you'd need bandaid solutions to manage it. It wouldn't be a DD in that condition.
The renesis engine has a bad reputation for breaking, but having seen what it can do both inside and out, I would say it's a fairly hearty engine if properly maintained, and properly tuned. With that said, I still wouldn't want to try for 400 whp. I don't think it's possible on pump gas, as you'd need bandaid solutions to manage it. It wouldn't be a DD in that condition.
#40
even with money, what are you going to do to make it better? I already went over this when I had my chance to redo mine. You can't really do much porting. replacing the apex seals aren't going to help much either - anything that damages the stock ones is still going to be a bad situation for the new ones.
For me, what I did was replace all the parts dealing with compression, all new gaskets and seals, and called it a day.
You can pin the housings, that's about all I can think of if I was going to 400.
For me, what I did was replace all the parts dealing with compression, all new gaskets and seals, and called it a day.
You can pin the housings, that's about all I can think of if I was going to 400.
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even with money, what are you going to do to make it better? I already went over this when I had my chance to redo mine. You can't really do much porting. replacing the apex seals aren't going to help much either - anything that damages the stock ones is still going to be a bad situation for the new ones.
For me, what I did was replace all the parts dealing with compression, all new gaskets and seals, and called it a day.
You can pin the housings, that's about all I can think of if I was going to 400.
For me, what I did was replace all the parts dealing with compression, all new gaskets and seals, and called it a day.
You can pin the housings, that's about all I can think of if I was going to 400.
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Im going up to performance autowerks today and ill ask them, PM with what you want me to ask them and want me to do with the file so i can pull it up at their shop
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#45
- qualify of your gas
- flow rates of your turbo (pushing the greddy to 300 is more dangerous than a 3071R to 330 cause the greddy's AIT will be much higher)
- your ambient temps and humidity, elevation, etc.
I'd stick to 330-360 as my highest comfortable range. But who knows, maybe something like low compression rotors will come out and change everything.
If I were a betting man, I'd say I could do 14 psi on the 3071R and not have issues with just pump gas. I've only gone as high as 12 though. It's crazy. I haven't gotten a dyno with that number, but it feels a lot faster than my dyno run w/ 245 tq at 9 psi.
#46
if you want just a bragging number, do like the supra guys do. wait till winter, get some dried ice, bunch of fans, race fuel, and keep going till you hit whatever imaginary number tickles your fancy. Just don't expect that to work on a hot summer day on the highway
#47
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depends on a bunch of factors.
- qualify of your gas
- flow rates of your turbo (pushing the greddy to 300 is more dangerous than a 3071R to 330 cause the greddy's AIT will be much higher)
- your ambient temps and humidity, elevation, etc.
I'd stick to 330-360 as my highest comfortable range. But who knows, maybe something like low compression rotors will come out and change everything.
If I were a betting man, I'd say I could do 14 psi on the 3071R and not have issues with just pump gas. I've only gone as high as 12 though. It's crazy. I haven't gotten a dyno with that number, but it feels a lot faster than my dyno run w/ 245 tq at 9 psi.
- qualify of your gas
- flow rates of your turbo (pushing the greddy to 300 is more dangerous than a 3071R to 330 cause the greddy's AIT will be much higher)
- your ambient temps and humidity, elevation, etc.
I'd stick to 330-360 as my highest comfortable range. But who knows, maybe something like low compression rotors will come out and change everything.
If I were a betting man, I'd say I could do 14 psi on the 3071R and not have issues with just pump gas. I've only gone as high as 12 though. It's crazy. I haven't gotten a dyno with that number, but it feels a lot faster than my dyno run w/ 245 tq at 9 psi.
#50
even with money, what are you going to do to make it better? I already went over this when I had my chance to redo mine. You can't really do much porting. replacing the apex seals aren't going to help much either - anything that damages the stock ones is still going to be a bad situation for the new ones.
The Renesis is capable of 500whp+...albeit it not on pump gas. It shouldn't be pushed much past 400whp on pump gas.