ok so I just read the thread while at work and I hope I didnt miss anything :lol2:

from what i gathered, I need to check the arm position

I am going to have this all apart tonight

lol 9k, we should just skype and do it together :rofl:

did you try adjusting the Sohn adaptor at all to see if it made any difference?

Has anyone drilled the oil injectors?
OD

No, but I will be doing that this weekend for sure. Also, this may be BS, but another member posted up that he has tested many oil injectors on RX7's and on RX8's using the FSM method and that only about four have passed. Do you guys think that is true? I have 118,000 miles on mine, I am wondering if I should just replace them.

Well, seeing as how the OMP is a positive displacement pump, I don't know why you would do that.

;) Sometimes.....................

Wonder how you would drill around the check valve?

have yall seen the S2 omp nozzles?
OD

Nope. Are they interchangeable?

you need to look at them.
OD

Okay, so I finally removed the OMP, lines, etc. Two of the lines are all clogged (119,000 miles) and two were cracked in the middle and dry rotted. Luckily one of our local members is a tech and got me amazing prices so I ordered the four hoses and new oil injectors.

I am so glad I premix 1oz per gallon. I hope it was enough to prevent any damage. Luckily I have not been driving a lot since I started noticing the SOHN reservoir not draining as usual.

Good catch! I've been wondering what has happened since you noticed the lack of sohn oil injection.

In my rx7 i pre-mixed 1/2 oz per gallon, and that engine saw redline all day every day, never missed a beat. I wouldn't worry about it if i were you. IMO cold starts in 0-20 degree F weather probably causes more apex seal wear than less than adequate oil injection.

Yeah two of the lines I could not even blow through, they were clogged bad. You could snap the hoses easily with your fingers they were so dry rotted. But I expected as much, these hoses and injectors have out lived two previous motors.

I am lucky that I don't deal with real cold starts. The car is garaged and it does not get cooler than 50F in there. But I run 0W-40 anyway and I never drive her away cold.

How many total miles on the OMP lines? I've always known OMP got real brittle over time, but figured mazda would update the material to last quite a bit longer than the previous generations.

And what do you think clogged the lines? The oiling system is pretty contained in this engine...

Doesnt the engine throw a code when the omp is not pumping?
Time for me to check mine again anyway--but thanks for sharing man.
4 small ss lines would look sick--if it could be done?
I agree with Sleepe about 1/2 oz--1 oz premix and no omp.
I dont think anybody actually has proven with hard data which way is the best?

Does anyone have a spare sensor(potentiometer)-the black one that is held on with 2screws? I had my engine in the back of a van and it tumbled over and broke it right off.

No.

lol, if you are pre-mixing 1oz/gal the only reason to even have the OMP around is to keep the PCM happy with the positioner signal. That's multiple times more oil than the OMP discharges even if it ran at the 100% open position continuously.

Sometimes you make a lot of sense Team .

The OMP lines, pump, and oil injectors have 119,000 miles on them. They were moved at 22k to a Mazda Reman and then again at 96k to another Mazda Reman. I am not sure what could have clogged them, I have been running the SOHN for over a year using Kawasaki 2 stroke and Idemitsu in a sealed reservoir. And I have always changed my oil religiously so I don't think dirty oil was a factor. The OMP and the SOHN adapter were full of nice clean Idemitsu.

I never got limp mode or a CEL.

That's good to hear, I thought of just blocking off the SOHN adapter inlet but never had the balls to do it.

Since you brought it up I almost posted that the whole point of the Sohn Adaptor is so you don't have to pre-mix. If it's your intent to pre-mix regardless you don't need to bother with it and the accessories i.e. K-I-S-S. There was also no need to replace those OE parts pre-mixing at that level. There's a lot of yammering about the S2 OMP and added injector ports, but rarely does anyone point out that it's all moot if you run heavier premix ratios. At that mix level you have more oil going in over a wider distribution area than the OE system will ever have.

What sensor do you need; where on the engine?

Thanks, I think I'll replace the parts and consider the information. Maybe just premixing is the way to go.

Two good posts in a row - must be some kind of a record .

understand that Mazda has emissions and cat converter life in mind, plus most people consider pre-mixing on a street vehicle to be an annoying PITA

This one:

The OMP position sensor switch, it's not available separate of the OMP assembly, you may want to research that some, a complete assembly may be your only option

I probably have an extra OMP assembly laying around...

Hey buddy, it would be great if you could find me a switch. I know it's just a poteniometer such as a tps,etc. The problem is is that I don't have a working one here to see what it puts out. I have older omp pumps which also have the setup but the wiring plug setup is backwards. I don't even have the original engine in there but I'm trying to get the stock dsc, throttle body and a couple of other things working. I may not even need it in the long run. Thanx!

I think I read somewhere in this thread that it is just a TPS off of another Mazda.

you can bite me down under :cwm27:

Ok, so I removed everything in anticipation of my OMP hoses and oil injectors arriving today. I figure I might as well pull the fuel injectors and have them cleaned and flow tested as well since I am in there and they have 119,000 miles on them.

I must say, the UIM is pretty clean and even looking into the LIM it looks clean as well. I guess running a WIX air filter is a good idea.

Question though, the senor on the OMP seems to be sitting all the way counter clockwise. Should I loosen the bolts and adjust it so the bolts are in the middle of the adjustment slots?

Edit:

For example, mine is positioned the opposite of this one and I have never touched those bolts previously.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1182492219

it probably makes too much sense to leave well enough alone ....

I just wonder why mine is positioned the opposite of others? I guess I will leave it and we'll see how it works when I bolt everything back up.

if it ain't broken don't go and f-it up, you won't know for sure until you get it back together and get it up and running, unless you get limp mode then don't press your luck

Yeah I wasn't getting limp mode before so I will just leave it for now.

Thank the good Lord for the search function and this thread.

At 145k miles, I just had to replace my engine. Got everything all bolted up and turned the key to find instant limp mode. CEL lit but with no code (that I could pull with my laptop anyway).

Repositioned the OPM possition sensor by rotating all the way clockwise and then backing up just a little counter clockwise. No CEL and no limp mode! Woo hoo!

Now I'll just have to watch my oil level for the next few weeks to make sure the OPM really is working. At least I'm not in mystery limp mode land anymore.

Glad to see you got it sorted, definitely keep an eye on oil level.

bump, probably one of the most overlooked threads on the forum

to bad a Moderator hasn't made it a sticky.....

I don't necessarily agree with some of the earlier assertions about increasing flow, but the position relative to safe mode vs proper operation is important, mostly because the switch position adjustment isn't discussed in any factory literature

does anybody make OMP emulator (which will allow its elimination and still not trigger P1688 and limp mode?)

Just for clarification.....i am not asking how to lubricate, i am asking if somebody made emulator which will allow stock OMP be removed and fool ECU...

if somebody has one they are keeping it a secret ...

Should be far from impossible to make one if you do some electronics.

But as far as I've understood, you do not need a emulator, just leave OMP connected and out of the way.

I hope it was that easy I know my car feels way faster than it was before but the omp that I have on it now just limps the car out now and then I'm still able to get up on but the power just falls all making a stock rx8 feel faster than mine I have my omp just connected and out of the way but I know it's affecting my throttle response badly

What? Your posts are hard to read. You have your OMP disconnected and out of the way? If so, why?

Sorry if they are hard to read Im usually busy and I just reply without spell checking.

My OMP is still connected but I Just relocated to the side in my engine bay compartment. I just don't like the fact of how something so simple controls so much such as acceleration, throttle response and such.

Like I had to adjust it so I can get over 4k now, now I have a moment were the car accelerates and the rpms drop off preventing me of giving it gas. I know this because I had a stock rx8 eat me from comming off the line but when I'm moving i can pull away from him everytime.

But I'll be buying a Cobb to stop this problem..

Why did you relocate your OMP? Hopefully you researched the topic.

Has anybody attempted to relocate the omp?
For example a top mount turbo manifold will cause damage to it

Is it possible to just move it to another location and have lines for oil running down to the original location?