I still have that white sh*t in place but think it is not as deep as what you have .....

nvm the tee, i had a different one in my kit that wouldnt go in with all the fittings put together, it would twist on but bump into something before it was fully tight. also use teflon tape where it sez to in the directions, u dont want to end up with a leak after u put everything on. as for the foam, u might be able to get away with it on with the grill, but if you dont have the grill in u can see the foam bright as day...

^ yeah I actually just ordered the greddy sandwich that gregs recommended... to tell you the truth I'm surprised greddy doesnt include it with the kit as it will make the oil feed install 10 times easier...

I will be removing the styrofoam I think... I can't see any functionality to it and then I can drill a bit of the solid plastic pieces to allow more airflow throught the bumper. Right now I'm mounting the manifold and then waiting for my oil adapter and bov flange to be finished getting welded on to the charge pipe. Got the same guy who is doing the aluminum weld to tap the turbo oulet for fix number 2 as well. Also still waiting for BHR midpipe and aeromotive fuel line adapter from Charles. Hoping if all goes well I should be able to finish the install by next Sunday minus the midpipe and fuel pressure gauge :fingersx:

Okay I also noticed this and wanted people opinions. If you look at this DIY thread Post #5 (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-ultimate-diy-greddy-turbo-bhr-coils-aem-intake-mod-boost-control-195786/) you will notice the studs going into the turbo exhuast outlet have the long side out. But I tried threading mine in the other way for shits n giggles and found that the long part of the studs can thread in the entire way. Will there be enough room for the downpipe to mound with the short end of the studs sticking out of the turbine outlet or do I need to mount it the way shown in the pictures?
I also looked at the greddy install instructions and it looks like the short end goes through the downpipe but the picture is so small I cannot tell if it is just an illusion or not.

yes they will thread in more than u need them to, be careful not to thread them in too much to where u cant get a good seal on the DP

Okay so I have the turbo oil lines in place and figured out that the DP will not fit on the short end of the studs so the short ends must be threaded into the turbo. I used liquid silicone thread sealant rather than teflon tape and everything seems to be in place; just waiting for the GReddy oil filter adapter to fit my oil feed line to on the top side. Next steps will be seeing if I should mount the oil outlet line before or after mounting the turbo and getting the the turbo outlet and suctions pipe onto the turbo. For you guys with the experience; did you find it easier to mount the suction pipe and compressor outlet onto the turbo before replacing the engine mount or the other way around? :mdrmed:

I'm glad my pic came into use, but for everyone else...don't use teflon tape for the oil fittings like in the pic, these are tappered connections that will leak with teflon. Also you really do not want this on the turbo side fitting because it will be a risk to the bearing.

Oil outlet line after the turbo is installed on the manifold or you will not be able to screw in one of the nuts. See MM instructions [31] for a great tip about the oil outlet http://www.mazdamaniac.com/upgrade/G...20Upgrade.html
For the compressor suction pipe and engine mount see Benjamz DIY. Helps a lot.

Okay thanks SC-ed!

Liquid silicon sealant is a better choice then?

Edit: Actually NVM I read the packaging.. I used a Permatex product called High Temerature Thread Sealant. Packaging also says parts repositionable and common application is for tapered metal threads. Prevents agianst rust corrosion and galling of threads.

Something else to consider at this point would be a filter on the oil line to the turbo . Both of the methods discussed bypass the stock oil filter .

Sorry not getting exactly what you are saying here?

The oil going to the turbo does not pass through the filter before going to the turbo so an in line filter is a good idea , especially given the early brg/seal failures we have seen with the Greddy turbo .

Okay yeah that is what I was thought you were saying but didn't want to assume anything... but with the Greddy sandwich plate I ordered it will be feeding the turbo right from the oil filter outlet

nope - oil is fed from the filter INLET

okay I had it backwards then I though the filter inlet was the center.... so a filter for the oil feed line; AN fitting to the end of the feed line?

Okay another update and yet again another question...

So I got my Charge pipe back with BOV flange welded on; it looks great. Also got my GReddy fix number 2 completed; just need to buy the silicon hose. So I'm about to get about 4 hours of sleep because it took me a few hours longer tonight than I expected to get the turbo mounted and the oil outlet pipe on. Those offset wrenches are the tits... they made getting to the turbo to manifold nuts soooo easy. Here is some updated pictures.

My question is: how the hell do you get to the top two nuts on the downpipe?!? Does my turbo and midpipe look really close to the body of the car compared to other peoples setups (pictures are with the engine lowered as far as possible)? I looked at Benjams DIY to see how he mounted the DP but I still think that it looks like I have less room; although it is hard to tell from just pictures, guess I'll find out when I try and fit a swivel socket up there but as of now I don't think it's looking good.

Anyway I'll keep you guys posted, I think with a few late late nights this weekend I can get most of the build done... still waiting on my Midpipe to ship and my oil filter sandwich to arrive. That and doing the gauges may take me a while because I am an electrical newb (even more so than a turbo newb :hahano:)

More pics

Mine even didn't fit without cutting that heat shield on the body. Got to the nuts with
swivel socket and swivel socket adapter between 2 extensions.

i had to bend my heat sheilding in that area, also im sure you do not have the engine on the passenger mount while your looking at this position which will change the position

so mount the engine before bolting the DP on? I think there would be more room without

Like SC-ed said , you need a long extension .

So I could not find 1/8" silicon hose for the wastegate actuator anywhere... is the Provided GReddy hose good enough? I did get ahold of some diesel injector hose which sits usually right on the exhaust manifold and they guy said it should work for my applications, what do you guys think?

1/8 to small? Greddy is 5mm and looks good. I used 7/32 vacuum hose from Autozone zip tied. Are you gonna run EBC?

^ So your saying the hose provided with the GReddy kit for the Wastegate actuator is good enough for the turbo oulet heat? Yeah I tapped an 1/8" barbed fitting into my turbo oulet for Fix #2. I eventually would like to run an EBC but am not going to off the bat.

For the life of me I cannot get on that top right nut on the DP, I think my sockets are too thick of walls to get on the nut or something because I can get damn close but not right onto it (had ratchet, extension, swivel, extension, swivel, socket combination). Here are some more pics... I'll take a picture of the wastgate actuator hose I got later as well.