This is going to be a fun adventure none the less, I just want to come back home and get the site up and the business started already!!!!

 

any updates on this one? also i was wondering if this 13b kit could work or be modified to work tweakit.net

 

Tweakits kit is awsome but requires additional management, the one I'm going to work on will be a hybrid itb set-up that will still use the factory engine management and sensors.

There will be no-updates for a few months, but expect it to be ready by sevenstock

Ben

 

There is no reason a tweakit kit would require any more or less engine management than anything else. You absolutely must retune for any setup anyways.

 

true, but for tweatkits kit, it requires more of a custom set-up, mine should be bolt on if all works, its not wotrh selling as a kit if it is not cost effective vs the whp gain. but it will be simular to the gtir set-up which works really good.

 

ya obviously tuning will be required regardless i was more curious if the intake manifold for the ITBs would fit a reni? they say 6 port but.... im not sure

 

^ "they say 6 port" did you find something that says they have itb's for the 6 port, i can't figure out who "they" is, i dont see an itb kit for the renesis on tweakit's site

thanks

 

If it says "6 port" but doesn't specifically say Renesis, then it's for a nonturbo '86-'91 RX-7 engine. The intake runners and bolt pattern are nowhere even close to each other and adapting one to work would be more difficult than just making a new one.

 

the more i look at the intake system the more respect i have for the factory design, a huge amount of time and engineering must have been put into it. it is going to be fun, difficult and extremely challenging to make a hybrid itb set-up that will be a complete bolt on kit and make more power.

 

oo ya good point def is for an fc, my mistake.

 

Buy why ITBs?

Why not a larger throttle Body attached to a better designed air intake box, with a larger ram air intake duct?

Simple things like taking out those "plastic guides" in our air intake box, catch can with breather appear to have positive effectives, and CAI ducts (Odula) and ram CAI ducts (Racing Beat).

The combination should give you more air and more power. This would use more fuel, but this could be mitigated with tuning and isolate the effect at WOT and high speed.

I'm thinking an air intake system that flowed more air would be effective and it's practical use would not be limited and would be fine for a daily driver.

 

im going to retain the single tb, because its a good size, i want to retain the features of the stock set-up because it works, im just going to modify it a bit

itbs for better throttle response, this is going to be difficult to make a kit that will yield results for the dollar spent for the kit

its going to be fun doing this while retaining the electronic tb

also it will still be compatible for FI.. turbo, the sc i see make you change to their upper intake manifold so they will not be compatible.

 

i wonder what it would take to hav a manifold made to fit the tweakits kit to a reny. they hav a kit with tapered throttles that i hav my eye on. ino that the $/hp isnt very good but.....insane throttle response ftw. also theres def. no need for a bigger throttle body as ours can already flow much more air then our ports, wouldnt a bigger throttle body just make throttle response worse also?

 

The stock throttlebody is already capable of flowing more air than the engine can ingest on it's own so I see no reason to use a larger single one. Multiple plates, even with greater total area, change the rules a bit.

 

mhmmm thats wat i thought

 

anyone know someone who makes custom intake manifolds. i want one that will fit the tweakit throttles to a renny.

 

How do you want to do it? Do you want to use 3 throttle plates or 2? I have a Renesis intake manifold lying around so making flanges isn't hard to do.

 

ooo i was thinking 1 per rotor just cuz the tweakit's kit. but 1 throttle per two ports would be nice too... what do u think?

 

The easy way would be to replace only the upper intake manifold. By keeping the lower you have 3 places or air to go. You have the rear rotor, the front rotor, and the auxiliary ports. You could have a throttle plate for each one and still retain the VDI and other features.

The other way would be to use only 2 barrels as you have suggested but still retain the stock lower manifold for it's features. Instead of keep the upper aux. port plastic runners, those could be replaced with runners built into the upper that keeps them separated into front and rear rotors only. Neither is necessarily any harder to do than the other.

BTW: I have a Weber carb lying around so I can easily get the flange dimensions for it too.

 

for what im working on, it will still use the maf, i want to make it a bolt on kit that will still function with the factory computer. i also want to use the maf so that a turbo kit can be used with the set-up..

rotarygod, i know you know this, but i want to remind others that this is fly by wire and no tb cable which makes it more intersting.

i want to retain some of the following features
"sited from the rx8 book page 115"

S-DAIS (sequential dynamic air induction system) for the high-power RENESIS. Six valves are employed to alter air passages. The rotary's unique intake interation is used to feed more air.

Low-speed zone ( WOT 3750rpm)
air goes through the long tube infront of the airbox and only into the rear port of the front rotor and the front port of the rear rotor.. or the inside ports between the rotors.

Mid-speed zone (WOT 3750rpm-5500rpm)
air goes through the long tube infront of the airbox, two valves open up, one for each rotor, and now air is fed to the inside ports and the outside ports.

Mid-speed zone (WOT 5500rpm-6250rpm)
air goes through the long tube and now the short tube infront of the airbox, two valves remain open , one for each rotor, and air is still fed to the inside ports and the outside ports.

Mid to High speed zone (WOT 62500rpm-7250rpm)
air goes through the long tube and now the short tube infront of the airbox, two valves remain open , one for each rotor, and air is still fed to the inside ports and the outside ports, two more valves open, one for each rotor, and the auxiliary ports kick in.

High speed zone (WOT 7250rpm to redline)
air goes through the long tube and now the short tube infront of the airbox, two valves remain open , one for each rotor, and air is still fed to the inside ports and the outside ports, the valves for the auxiliary stay open and the last valve between the runners going to the inside ports opens creating an additional pathway in the manifold.

there are a total of 6 valves that open that create 5 different pathways for the intake system.

so the challange is to make a hybrid itb set-up that will not lose power down low, give better throttle response, make more top end power and top end tq and still run within limits that the factory ecu can control.

this is the mission

 

Keeping drive by wire on an ITB setup is going to be difficult but not impossible. It will require some custom fabbing to make the stock tb motor fit. I have a stock tb lying around too!

 

rotarygod, do you have a spare upper intake manifold for sale also

i would like to buy them off of you, the tb and upper intake mani, i am not in a rush to push out something that wont work, but i would like to have a prototype ready by sevenstock

yes it will be difficult, but more fun then anything

 

ya i like that first option RG. 3 sounds real good. i was already thinking about keeping the lower intake mani just to keep the other features and to keep the butterflies up higher. what does the weber hav to do with it?
ps i was def thinking about throttle cable.
pps do u think the AP would work well with the ITBs

 

damn, ITB will sound so crazy on the renesis...... but did anyone see the 4 rotor scoot weith itb.? so sickkkkk~~~~~

 

ya def will sound amazing, and yes i did see that.....