Intercooler water sprayer
 

Here's the next project that I'm working on at the moment.
I'm adding a water sprayer ( mister ) system to my intercooler.
So far I have fitted a couple of mister nossles to the front of the intercooler.
These are a very fine nossle with filter and shut off value built into the nossle head.
The pump I'm using is an Italian Ulka high pressure pump commonly used in coffee machines.
Its advantage is its very small and light and can pump up to 200psi. Its downfall is its a 220v pump, so I have to use a 12-220 volt inverter to be able to use it in my car.
The whole system will be controlled using an intercooler spray controller circuit from e-labtronics out of Australia.
It controlls using temperature thermistors and time control.
Anyway here are a few photos of what I have done so far.

Attachment 225636

Attachment 225637

Attachment 225638

As you will see in the second and third photos, I have the grill removed at the moment and the front panel is just sitting in place while I'm doing the testing.
In the last photo you can see a test run of how the system works and the type of mist produced.
Still a lot to do yet.

Rotaman

Looks great!
Nice work

Sweet, I have been planning this for a bit, I am a bit all over the place with it though so I can't make up my mind.

Here are 3 more photos, these are the Ulka pump which is rubber mounted in the air box tray. The second photo is with the airbox in place. The last photo is of the electronic controller and the box I made to mount it in and the two nozzles that are used to produce the mist. The nozzle hole diameter is .020in, so pretty small.

Attachment 225609

Attachment 225610

Attachment 225611

Rotaman

Nice project

Thanks

I have been doing plenty of work on this project at the moment, mainly wireing at the moment, still got more to go yet.
As I do with the rest of the mods I've done, I'm trying to make all the wiring look factory, which takes hours of work. I'll try get some more photos up soon.

Rotaman

Is it worth putting a couple of nozzles on the radiator as well?

I suppose it could be used on the Radiator as well if you wanted. I hadn't planed to do that at this stage.
I'm sure it would be interesting to test that idea. I will see how it goes with these two to start with.

Rotaman

Here's a bit of an update of what I've been upto with the Intercooler sprayer.
Ulka pump is now wired and all plummed up.
The electronic controller is now all wired in position along with the inverter and will sit under the passenger seat.

Attachment 225180

Attachment 225181

Still have some wiring to go, but nearly done.

Also note that I have added a maf sensor to the inlet pipe before the trottle body, this is going to be used as my Inlet Air temp sensor and has been modified as seen in this photo.

Attachment 225182

Rotaman

You're a bloody legend mate I'm looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.

very tidy Rotaman :)

very nice,

I thought about doing something similar a while ago but I sold my cooling mist setup before I tried.

I've noticed two things, did u use the rear rotor accent for front and is your radiator placed opposite ?

BTW, why not route the windshield washer hose to the intercooler and put a on/off valve at the windshield nozzles ?

Easier, same spray, no need for wiring or inverter ?

Or why not just use a windshield washer pump ? They sell for like 20 bucks ? Or buy a washer fluid reservoir with pump for $80 ?
Just suggestions to make life easier.

lol


MAF and IAT readings should be taken at the same point, which is why the MAF us designed that way, unless you are using this as just a secondary IAT reading separate from the PCM?

Nope - not necessary . The IAT sensor has no input into the tune so best place for it is post IC so you can monitor IATs where it matters.

Typically the IAT is used along with the MAF signal in order to calculate the true mass air flow rate. Also, if it has no impact then why have a 2nd one since it makes no difference?

Wrong again . You are having a bad week man ;)

I explained all that in the calc load thread . It's there to correct the max calc load curve as is baro . And we have established without any doubt, that the max calc load curve is not used for the tune - it's a safety net (for cat protection) .

I said "typically" which is a generic statement rather than specific. I don't see how that makes me wrong or having a bad week other than maybe the idea as such satisfies something within you :dunno:

If max calc load is not used as you state then why can I manipulate it to alter the calc load output which then changes where the engine operates on the fuel map under WOT/open loop even though all the engine operating conditions are still the same? I've actually done this on back-back testing. Denser air, whether baro or temp based, increases calc load which in turn puts the the engine operating in the richer area of the fuel map as was intended by Mazda since the additional oxygen needs more fuel or vice versa in the opposite scenario. Even though these inputs don't physically alter the tune they impact where in the tune that the outputs are determined.

You make many mistakes in the calc load thread and I simply chose not to pursue arguing it. In your own words (more or less as I recall) to explain your own guessing game, " Why does it do this? I don't know". It amazes me the things people make up to explain their own lack of understanding. The OE calc load based tables were specifically pushed out to 125% to account for all the input variables that could push the engine to operate there.

If you had taken the time to read and digest the calc load thread properly you would understand why you are seeing the results you are seeing . I've explained it enough times now so I wont bother to do so again here .


The only guess I have made is in suggesting the table is for cat protection which seems the only logical reason it should exist . The rest is irrefutable fact tested and proven . Because you have not tested it the way I have you are still making false conclusions.

You got this bit right .... well done .

Anyway - It's great that you believe what you believe , have fun in blissful ignorance land.

That accent was on the car when I bought it. My Radiator sits in the factory position, what you can see is the aircondensor sitting flat on the under tray.


The reason I don't use the windshield washer is because it is only low pressure, and will not produce the same mist quantity. This setup might be more complex and more expensive, but it should be a lot better then most.

Rotaman

The IAT is used with the MAF, but there are two built into the MAF housing.

A voltage divider requires two resisters.
One of them is the Hot wire and one of them is the Thermosister.
As temp fluctuates, the thermosister changes resistance and thus voltage output. The hot wire does the same thing based on how much cooling it is getting.

If the secondary IAT affects anything at all I do not know.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1382980740

Ok. I'll give you that on the low pressure.


How about this ? Is also 12V

12V 100PSI 4L MIN High Pressure Diaphragm Water Pump for RV Caravan Boat | eBay

That might work . It looks like Rodger has already found his solution so why don't you buy it test it and get back to us with your findings ?

His solution looks way overcomplicated to me. I need something simple. that is what I am aiming for. Also, you can get that Ebay pump for like $20.00 shipped.