MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I will use a hammer anywhere, anytime!

mysql

this is why I don't let you install body panels

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Actually, I have a set of special hammers for that with curves and light heads.

tajabaho1

well, for me I used a saw for the mazsport turbo, and it didn't melth anything....mostly cus you have to cut everything that it might be touching to fit it in the first place...........

and still, I checked, as Kane suggests, and the O2 sensor wires, which I heat shielded, 3 times, and wrapped with Silicone heat wrap, and then another time with Aluminium Cool-blanket thing you buy from Super autobacs.......has ben meted clean off

Woot.........I hope the MAP INT-X don't need that -_-

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

Kane.... you didnt mention trying to weld the nut back in place with aluminum wire

Note to self: dont break nuts that are welded into the subframe.
Note #2: Dont have Army divers attempt to weld subframe nuts back in place

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

btw..... between this experience, and my previous ones... i am VERY thankful to learn that it is in my best interest to put antiseize on EVERYTHING!!!!

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

man that AC was BALLER!! it was very uncomfortable hot/muggy outside this weekend. in the garage, it was a cool 74 degrees.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

+1 on Baller AC; +2 on moving stuff out of the way; mine looks the same as yours MYSQL - see that red scorch mark on your pic - mine was the same; but worse.


Paul, the Aluminum Wire thing was funny 12 Rum and Cokes into the day...

mysql

What you see in that pic is approx 2 years of greddy turbo usage. The metal was never banged out of the way. I had no issues, the metal just had a bronze color to it.

The photos above show Jeff banging out the metal to make room for the 3071R.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, my turbine outlet looked about the same position as yours but I did not bang the heat shielding out enough; nor the body itself. A mistake I will not be making again.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

I am bigger than you; would be my guess...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, but can get my entire hand around it.
You make it sound like yours was actually touching with no clearance at all.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

It is what it is.

Here are the pics from late Sunday night.

The infamous "nut of doom" - re-welded; thanks Mazda for that little adventure.


My turbo blanket - and downpipe. See the area in question?



New underbody - with 2000F paint.



I just need a clean surface for the heat shield to be emplaced soon.



Thoughts on wrapping vs ceramic coating: there is no place in HI to ceramic coat; so is it worth the $500 plus shipping to ceramic coat my stuff - or sandblast + 2000F paint plus manifold wrap and turbo blanket (<$100). Discuss...

laythor

save the money and buy a second AC for the garage.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Anyone else?

I am leaning toward NOT ceramic coating it; but I din't want to take it all out again.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

no answer from the phone call.... i sent email as well.... i'll call you later to discuss...

btw the link is http://www.allamericanpowdercoating.com/

Kane

iTrader: (1)

K - thanks bud.

maxxdamigz

iTrader: (1)

To me it looks like your DP pinched the blanket between the pipe and the floor. 90% of the heat blocking properties of most insullants tend to be from the encapsulated air. If the material is compressed, it conducts heat at a much higher rate. So, clearancing the pipe and using something like a replaced blanket/header wrap might do the trick. I couldn't really tell you from experience though - I have ceramic coating.

Psychofox

I think you should be fine without ceramic coating as long as there's enough clearance between the turbo/downpipe and the underbody of the car.
I have my MM turbo for 4k miles now and i dont see any under body cooking like yours

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Well; good to know - I realize ceramic is the way to go; but the fact that I can't get it locally makes me think for me; it is not worth it (time and $$$).

Maxxdamigz - I think you are right; plus with the alum heat shield and the body of the car being so close didn't help me any. But I fixed that with some fine tuning.

"I need to fine tune this.... hand me a hammer would ya?" -

At this point I am just hoping 2000F Heat shield on the body + mani-wrap and turbo blanket can be AS effective as ceramic; and if so I can get my car back together...

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Got some info from Jet-Hot; they are saying surface temps go down by more than 50% - that is a lot.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

ARRGHHHH, I am sooo torn right now; I am 50/50 on sending it in (quote for$ 451.00)

Includes turbo hot side, manifold and downpipe - takes 2-3 weeks vs. wrapping it myself for free and I can have the car running by the weekend.

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

I would get it ceramic coated--you will never have to worry about whether your floor is burning up again. I think it's worth the wait for a 50% reduction in heat.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

1 for ceramic/ 1 for wrapping; maybe time for a poll - LOLZ.


I'll decide in the AM.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

no jet coat dealer in hawaii?

beers