I will use a hammer anywhere, anytime!
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this is why I don't let you install body panels
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Originally Posted by mysql
(Post 2581671)
this is why I don't let you install body panels
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well, for me I used a saw for the mazsport turbo, and it didn't melth anything....mostly cus you have to cut everything that it might be touching to fit it in the first place...........
and still, I checked, as Kane suggests, and the O2 sensor wires, which I heat shielded, 3 times, and wrapped with Silicone heat wrap, and then another time with Aluminium Cool-blanket thing you buy from Super autobacs.......has ben meted clean off Woot.........I hope the MAP INT-X don't need that -_- |
Kane.... you didnt mention trying to weld the nut back in place with aluminum wire :yelrotflm
Note to self: dont break nuts that are welded into the subframe. Note #2: Dont have Army divers attempt to weld subframe nuts back in place :p: |
btw..... between this experience, and my previous ones... i am VERY thankful to learn that it is in my best interest to put antiseize on EVERYTHING!!!!
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Originally Posted by swoope
(Post 2580777)
omg,
it was an ac unit!!!!!! i guess i am half a man as i have no ac in my garage.. please dont play the geography card on me.. as you will lose to me and others. ;) i would play the kimi card. it is your only hope!!!! :) but thanks for the update!!!! the heat patterns are amazing! beers :beer: |
+1 on Baller AC; +2 on moving stuff out of the way; mine looks the same as yours MYSQL - see that red scorch mark on your pic - mine was the same; but worse.
Paul, the Aluminum Wire thing was funny 12 Rum and Cokes into the day... |
What you see in that pic is approx 2 years of greddy turbo usage. The metal was never banged out of the way. I had no issues, the metal just had a bronze color to it.
The photos above show Jeff banging out the metal to make room for the 3071R. |
Yeah, my turbine outlet looked about the same position as yours but I did not bang the heat shielding out enough; nor the body itself. A mistake I will not be making again.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2581655)
I can fit my hand completely around the downpipe, so I don't know what's up over there...
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Originally Posted by Kane
(Post 2581940)
I am bigger than you; would be my guess...:dunno:
You make it sound like yours was actually touching with no clearance at all. |
It is what it is.
Here are the pics from late Sunday night. The infamous "nut of doom" - re-welded; thanks Mazda for that little adventure. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3176/...016c41b1e4.jpg My turbo blanket - and downpipe. See the area in question? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3234/...784e294c_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/...84a75f13_o.jpg New underbody - with 2000F paint. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3038/...f5996d72_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3221/...d508dbb2_o.jpg I just need a clean surface for the heat shield to be emplaced soon. Thoughts on wrapping vs ceramic coating: there is no place in HI to ceramic coat; so is it worth the $500 plus shipping to ceramic coat my stuff - or sandblast + 2000F paint plus manifold wrap and turbo blanket (<$100). Discuss... |
save the money and buy a second AC for the garage.
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Anyone else?
I am leaning toward NOT ceramic coating it; but I din't want to take it all out again. |
Originally Posted by Kane
(Post 2583550)
Anyone else?
I am leaning toward NOT ceramic coating it; but I din't want to take it all out again. btw the link is http://www.allamericanpowdercoating.com/ |
Originally Posted by paulmasoner
(Post 2583554)
no answer from the phone call.... i sent email as well.... i'll call you later to discuss...
btw the link is http://www.allamericanpowdercoating.com/ |
To me it looks like your DP pinched the blanket between the pipe and the floor. 90% of the heat blocking properties of most insullants tend to be from the encapsulated air. If the material is compressed, it conducts heat at a much higher rate. So, clearancing the pipe and using something like a replaced blanket/header wrap might do the trick. I couldn't really tell you from experience though - I have ceramic coating.
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I think you should be fine without ceramic coating as long as there's enough clearance between the turbo/downpipe and the underbody of the car.
I have my MM turbo for 4k miles now and i dont see any under body cooking like yours |
Well; good to know - I realize ceramic is the way to go; but the fact that I can't get it locally makes me think for me; it is not worth it (time and $$$).
Maxxdamigz - I think you are right; plus with the alum heat shield and the body of the car being so close didn't help me any. But I fixed that with some fine tuning. "I need to fine tune this.... hand me a hammer would ya?" - :lol: At this point I am just hoping 2000F Heat shield on the body + mani-wrap and turbo blanket can be AS effective as ceramic; and if so I can get my car back together... |
Got some info from Jet-Hot; they are saying surface temps go down by more than 50% - that is a lot.
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ARRGHHHH, I am sooo torn right now; I am 50/50 on sending it in (quote for$ 451.00)
Includes turbo hot side, manifold and downpipe - takes 2-3 weeks vs. wrapping it myself for free and I can have the car running by the weekend. |
I would get it ceramic coated--you will never have to worry about whether your floor is burning up again. I think it's worth the wait for a 50% reduction in heat.
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1 for ceramic/ 1 for wrapping; maybe time for a poll - LOLZ.
I'll decide in the AM. |
no jet coat dealer in hawaii?
beers:beer: |
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