If you would spend less time thinking of new names to call me and more time framing your question in a way that a normal speaker of the English language can understand, you might "provoke" a more useful response.

Having any special knowledge does not make me a better person. However, I am simply a better person than you. I'm sorry that you have had to come to the realization of this at such a late juncture in your life.
You suck and I don't. Get over it.

Like I said I am done with this childish bullshit. Thank you all for the information that I did receive.

inconsistant boost
 

I have the greddy kit with the AEM true boost gage style boost controller. When I go into boost I notice fluxuations in the boost all the way from 3psi to 9psi. it is never just a constant number. Is this a problem with my boost controller or is there a problem with my turbo?

You are the childish bullshit. Get over it. You received the info - its in this thread. You are just too dense to get it.
Work on your language skills and check back at a later date.

Hmmm, I wonder if this is from the wastegate signal being in the stock location instead of on the turbo outlet. It was mentioned by MM that this would cause the turbo to run on the edge of surge...


Jeff, does a boost controller set-up still need to have the wastegate signal moved? And would this be the reason why the boost is fluctuating?

Other possibilities, boost leak somewhere in the system / bad coupler / journal bearing issues / bad boost controller / tuning... am I just throwing crap out there. I would start with the wastegate signal though.

Dude what the fuck, I said i was done with this, and you just have to keep taking stabs at people right. Get over it allready. BTW this is a forum not a fucking grammar test i could give a fuck less if my spelling or grammar is completely fucking wrong. Go fuck yourself man you are nothing special. If you were any good with rotaries you wouldn't be messing with thye rx8, you would know your shit about rx7's. Fuck off!


To everyone else here im sorry for causing shit on this thread

The only conclusion that I can draw from this, is that a person with the screen name "rotarypower88" can't get along with rotary owners. Or maybe people in general.

Its over when I say its over. You can keep stamping your feet all you want you little troll.
Next time they let you out for work release, grab a copy of the Learning Annex paper and sign yourself up for some anger management classes. Ultimately, if you learn how to manage your relationships with people, you will have a more productive life and your pimps/boyfriends/dealers will appreciate your more.

Very likely.
Also, there are a lot of settings on a boost controller that can lead to this. I'm not familiar with the AEM, but it probably has a threshold setting that may be set too high.

thanks guys, I'll check for leaks on the high pressure side of the turbo. If that dosen't work I'll save up for a new boost controller. I suspect that it is the AEM boost controller it was 200 bucks cheaper than all the other controllers I was looking at maybe there was a reason for that...

Did you relocate your wastegate signal agent004?

if you check any of my other posts, you will be able to see that i have no problems getting along with anyone else, this MM fuckhead is on my case and wont give it the fuck up. i have no problems with anyone else here.

Cheap is not necessarily bad. AEM makes good stuff. I'll look around for the manual and see if anything sticks out. As Kane said, you should have the signal going into the boost control solenoid coming from a source very close to the outlet of the turbo, rather than anywhere down stream - especially after the TB.

Run through the GReddy Turbo System Fixes thread.

Well, actually, you have problems with quite a few people here, I'm just the only one who is contributing to the merriment at the moment. Its delightful.
Do you have any other epithets in your vocabulary? You've pretty well used up the one or two that you've been using over these several posts.
I'd like to see more creativity, but I suppose that would be asking a lot from you.

If you are "done" then why do you keep posting and coming back? Just leave already.

You asked a question that has been answered NUMEROUS times all over this website. You were lucky no one flammed you at first. Then you pouted and stamped your feet when no one would help you because we've already done this hundreds of times. So who's the childish one, again?

I tapped the highpressure output of the turbo for the wastegate signal like the instructions that came with my boost controller said to. Mazda Maniac I would appriciate you checking out the "aem true boost" controller. there were a few settings that I'm not familiar with. there are two adjustments that I have been tampering with, the spring pressure setting, and duty cycle. when I bought it I thought I could just set the boost in psi and the contriller would hold a constant boost regulating pressure to prevent any spikes allowing me to run a higher boost. but when I got it I saw that there was a duty cycle setting not a boost (psi) setting. As I increase duty cycle the mean average of my indicated boost increases which is the expected response, however the boost is sparatic. and to be completely honest I have no idea what changing the spring pressure setting is affecting.

Most boost controllers have a "base" setting (which is the spring pressure setting on the Tru-Boost) and a duty cycle setting that is what you use to up the pressure.
Set the duty cycle to minimum and play with the spring setting until the boost stays flat at whatever the stable boost is for the wastegate actuator (probably somewhere around 5 PSI) and then start upping the duty cycle until it is either where you want it or it becomes unstable again.
The actuator on the GReddy turbo is only stable up to about 9 PSI, then it is simply too weak to hold back the pressure from the exhaust. You can try adjusting the nut on the actuator until it is tight enough to keep the flap from opening all the way when it is at max extension, but you have to be real careful because you can seriously over-boost at higher RPMs if you get that wrong.

jim?

beers :beer:

thanks mazda maniac and kane. I tweaked the spring setting to 6.5 pounds and decreased the duty cycle a bit. it still fluctuates a little but not as bad as before and the average boost is higher. The car accelerates noticeably more quickly. I can barely keep it on the road pulling out of corners from a stop. so much fun:Eyecrazy:

now that I'm past that there is one more project I was considering before dropping another $500 on a tuning session. I was reading in one of the other treads about the possibility of a CO2 spray system on a greddy turbo kit intercooler. I did a little research and it has shown as a 52 WHP increase on other cars. Cooler air should provide more Hp without increasing boost levels. What do you guys think?

Not a bad idea, but IMO pretty $$$ for something that will run out.

You planning to drag only?

If you are using EMU, hit me up before you pay 500 for tuning.

nah this is my daily driver. the CO2 system will cost about 600$. but the refills are way cheaper than the nitrous spray systems. only about $1 per pound. I wouldn't use it often just when that evo was next to me at the stop light. I am running the EMU and I could use some help sorting some things out with that. I'm not much of a tuner but I was forced to learn the basics just to get my car to run right.

A water sprayer is just as effective and a hell of a lot cheaper. You can build your own for a few bucks.

Only in really arid climates.
In a humid place, the evaporation rate of water isn't really high enough to cool a properly functioning intercooler.

Revised version of Greddy BOT kit manual http://greddy.com/tech/ for download, part 1 & 2 (please scroll down). Anyone can see if the flaws fixed?

I see no major changes.

if i already have headers will they new longer be useful with the greddy turbo manifold? also what about a intake

Both go on E-Bay.