Greddy Turbo Kit F.A.Q's. post them here
 

With the recent deluge of Greddy turbo kit questions, installations, add on's, etc... I am going to create a dedicated F.A.Q. that will try to answer all of the Greddy kit questions that anyone could possibly have who isn't familiar with it. I want everyone to list all the questions and answers to this that they can think of so I can compile it all into one thread. Please post your question along with the answer (assuming you know it). When I add it to the new thread, I will delete the message here so we don't take crazy amounts of space in the process. The new F.A.Q. thread will be a locked thread so it doesn't get innundated with 1800+ responses. Because of these, we need to get all of the questions listed here first. Help me out guys. This is for a new thread that will make it easier for new people to get their questions answered. Once I feel this thread is no longer making any progress, I will delete it an any further additions will need to be PM'd to me. Please take a few minutes to help out but keep the chit chat with others out of this thread. Questions and answers only please. This is only for their turbo system, not the eManage, intake, exhausts, etc... Thanks!

1. What is included? The turbo, emanage, piping, brackets, etc. No BOV, but you can purchase one separate. Everything necessary to put the turbo on and start driving is included.

2. What additional items are recommended? Blow off valve and boost gauge as minimums.

3. What additional items are nice to have?

4. What problems have people experienced? What are the probable causes and remedies?

5. What has been done to the eManage to make it work with our cars? How many versions and when were they released?

6. Can't you reprogram the eManage map?

7. What software do you need to use to load/tune maps?

8. What are the different maps available? What do they do and how were they changed from previous versions?

9. What's a typical install time? Typical install time is around 10-12 hours. It may be possible to do it faster or it may take longer.

10. What are typical installation labor rates? Between $1000-$1200

11. What else should I know about this kit or turbos in general?

12. What type of turbo does the kit use?

13. How much boost does it provide? The greddy kit's boost varies depending on RPM. At low RPM it boosts 7 psi at high rpm it cuts back to 5 psi to avoid detonation.

14. Will my gas mileage be effected by the turbo? Yes. Typically since a turbo is a restriction in the exhaust, you will lose a little efficiency. Typically around 1 mpg if your driving habits stay the same. It will get worse if you floor it everywhere which you are likely to do since it is now much more fun. Strangely enough, some have reported an increase in mileage on the RX-8. go figure?

15. How much boost can the base kit handle? While no one knows for sure but Greddy, it is believed to be about 9-10 psi.

16. Will adding a turbo affect the long term reliability of the car?

17. Do I need to build up the internals of the engine to handle the boost?

18. What air/fuel ratios does the kit run?

19.What is the safest/most reliable afr that gets the best HP?

20. What octane fuel is recommended with forced induction?

21. Can I use a high flow cat or straight pipe with forced induction?

22. Will forced induction void my vehicle's factory warranty? YES

What are the 0-60 and quarter mile times?

From what I read, its about 13.8-13.9seconds for the 1/4mile Which is really good considering the guy launched the car from 3000rpm.

Hi guys

Q1-Is the DSC feature still enabled once the turbo is installed, and if so , does that play havoc with the piggyback computor?

Q2- does the kit intercooler have capabilitty to boost say, 9 lbs. What BHP would it max out (300BHP ?)

Is the kit primarily targeted for a stock set up? No intake , Hi flow cat , exhaust etc
:confused:

Also with the aide of some high flow injectors, and some tuning,would 300RWHP be RELIABLY acheivable staying within the realms of 12.5 AFR??

Would the stock exhaust setup be capable of flowing 300 RWHP or would it be restricted ??

After everything is said and done...the kit is in, the piggy back is plugged in...will everything work together seemlessly? or do you have to bring the car somewhere to get it programmed and tuned?
-Max

How does it work..


;)

isn't the answer for number 12 a T617z turbo (t4/t3) ? made by mistubishi (as is all greddy/trust turbos)

and i'd say premium fuel for number 20:D

21 is a yes..but i hear there are a few people with issues runnign teh SR high-flow cat. they get a cel and it gives teh turbo problems...but seemign how i don't own one i can't verify first hand.

well the e-manage is locked from greddy so people wont' mess with it...you can clear it..but then you have to either load up a map from on here (mazdamanic has posted a few)...or have a tunner shop tuen it for you.

T618Z

Technically it is a TD06-18G Mitsu turbo.

T3/T4 is a Garrett designation.

on 21, i had the SR hi flow cat and had trouble with it...put stock back on and much better...altoiugh others have done better than me with it

#15 i beleive that the greddy makes about 5-6 lbs of boost with no modifications, and i know that any turbo kit can be modified from the stock configuration easily for a couple extra lbs of boost.

now to how much it can generate, any turbo can be made to make significantly more boost that what its particular application, so you could probably turn the boost up to about 20lbs, but how much boost it makes efficently is another matter, the more boost you make, the hotter you make the air, so after a certain point you actually go the wrong way on the horsepower curve, ie at 10 lbs, you make for example 275 hp, but at 12 you only make 260, cause even though the pressure is higher, the air is hotter so as taking up more volume, equaling less power..................dont ya just hate boyles law

oo true true thanks for the clearification on my mix up..haha i've had turbo's on the brain for a lill bit and it all kinda blead together :D

thanks ArmyRx-8...thats what i figured...i've heard people say both good and bad things about the profet e-01, but mainly that after a certain RPM band it's hard to tune the Fuel Map...and you have to do it in 300rpm incriments. before i go out and spend $4,000.00 i just want to make sure i get the right hardware and software to make the car run right. so im looking for a good Boost controller havent decided mech. or elect. yet ... and some type of tuning hardware like the e-01...

speaking of making a lot of Horse power from a turbo check out this site...it's Acosta motorsports 20B RX-8 with 900 hp.
http://www.urbanracer.com/articles/a...sp?a=1239&z=16

it's a pretty sweet ride...i just bought the same rims for mine. Super Rozza's

for those of you looking for gauges here's a real nice setup...pricey but awesome...
http://www.acostamotorsports.com/catalog/
http://www.acostamotorsports.com/html/

The turbo, emanage, piping, brackets, etc. Everything necessary to put the turbo on and start driving is included.

Blow off valve and boost gauge as minimums. An oil catch can is suggested since the crankcase becomes pressurized and will eject some oil into the intake without one.

The more instrumentation, the more comfortable you will be. Oil and water temp gauges are suggested along with EGT, oil pressure and a real wideband oxygen sensor.

Other than installation issues and mistakes, a common issue as been drivability in several RPM ranges. This seems to be caused by an electronic signal modifier that Greddy has installed in the E-Manage harness to trick the OEM PCM into open loop by changing the water temp sender signal. Most people with issues like bogging, lurching or sudden flat spots around 4500 RPM and elsewhere should remove this device.

The E-Manage as it comes with the kit is wired to control the OEM injectors only. It is not wired to control ignition timing and it may or may not be wired to control the airflow meter. The internal programming was changed at least twice - once in March and again in May.
The current programming is identical to the MAPS posted here on this forum by me, MazdaManiac.
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=888676&postcount=17

You cannot "reprogram" the existing MAP because it is password locked. However, you can replace it outright with one of the above-mentioned MAPs.

You need the Greddy Support Tool and its included cable which is NOT a regular serial to USB cable.
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/index.html#supporttool

As noted, there are three different MAPs floating around, depending on when the kit was purchased and whether or not it was returned to Greddy USA to be reprogrammed. The main differences have been some changes to injector duty cycle in the middle RPM range and an extension of the MAPs out to 10 PSI. The inclusion of the acceleration MAP in the latest updates and changing of the control of the open-loop dongle is also notable.

Typical install time is around 10-12 hours. It may be possible to do it faster or it may take longer, depending on the experience of the installer.

Between $1000-$1200.

If you intend to leave it as it is shipped and installed, you won't need to know much beyond the normal care of your car.
You should be meticulous about changing the oil and watching the coolant level. You should be generally sensitive about odd noises or strange behaviour or smells (though it is normal to smell some oil and fiberglass burning in the first couple of days).
However, if you intend to modify the installation in any way, it is highly advisable that you work in conjunction with individuals that are intimately knowledgable with forced induction. It is extremely easy to damage the motor with only a minor adjustment.

It uses a Greddy T618Z, which is a modified Mitsubishi TD06-18G. This is a fairly small turbo with an integral wastegate.

The "target" boost is about 6.5 PSI. Because of the wastegate design, the boost varies and tends to drop off at higher RPMs.

Yes. Typically since a turbo is a restriction in the exhaust, you will lose a little efficiency. Typically around 1 mpg if your driving habits stay the same. It will get worse if you floor it everywhere which you are likely to do since it is now much more fun. Strangely enough, some have reported an increase in mileage on the RX-8. go figure?

The turbo itself is not the limiting factor - it is the fuel injection system of the RX-8 that determines the maximum.
The fuel injectors are limited to about 300 HP, so 9 PSI is about all that can be safely done.

An engine will produce a finite number of RPMs at a ratio to a finite quantity of torque over its lifetime. Adding a turbo will increase the torque, so the total number of revolutions will decrease.
In other words, yes you will use your motor up more quickly. Much of this additional wear can be mitigated by good maitenance and mechanical empathy.

No.


It aims for 12:1, but ends up at 11:1 or richer in some ranges.

Safest is probably 11:1, though the Renesis is remarkably detonation resistant. Some of us tune for 12.5:1 or so.

A minimum or 91 AKI (RON + MON / 2). In hot climates, 92 or higher would be a good choice.

Yes, but it will directly affect the tuning. A higher flow cat or test pipe will reduce the exhaust restriction enough to cause the turbo to overboost or spike which may excede the tuning range of the E-Manage. As indicated above, make modifications of this sort only after understanding the ramifications.

A qualified yes. The Magnusen - Moss act protects you from colateral violation of your warrantee. Modifying the engine will violate the drivetrain warrantee. You still have recourse with the other subsystems of the car.

You can download the instructions in PDF format here:
http://www.mazdamaniac.com/downloads/pdf/rx8_greddy_kit_instruction.pdf

Nice thread....anybody dyno'd this,all set up,yet?

I am ordering the turbo in july so I am getting together my gauges. I already have the boost, egt and a/f. I have two more spots to fill, out of water temp, oil temp and oil pressure, which two should be highest priority? I was thinking water temp and oil pressure but we already knda have a water temp gauge so should i go to oil temp?

zoomzoom 8 I would say that you are right with taking the oil temp/pressure. you will definitly want to know if you are running FI and low on oil pressure, you could make yer 13B a paperweight real fast.

Thanks BlueRenesis82! One more question, I know rotaries run alot hotter than piston engines, so how hot should the oil be? I need to know so that i do not get a gauge that the needle will stay pegged on. the ones I have seen go to 300 degrees. I think that should suffice cause the engine temp is not at 300 but I really do not know alot about my rotary yet . . still learning. Mazda Maniac for example told me not the hook the EGT to the manifold because the temp is so high that the gauge would likely be pegged out. He recommended hooking in near the secondary o2 sensor on the Cat pipe.

who do i increase the boost from stock to a higher setting??

"8. What are the different maps available? What do they do and how were they changed from previous versions?

As noted, there are three different MAPs floating around, depending on when the kit was purchased and whether or not it was returned to Greddy USA to be reprogrammed. The main differences have been some changes to injector duty cycle in the middle RPM range and an extension of the MAPs out to 10 PSI. The inclusion of the acceleration MAP in the latest updates and changing of the control of the open-loop dongle is also notable."

I am probably ordering the kit tomorrow, how do i tell if it has the most current map or should I just upload mazdamaniac's map as IT IS ALREADY the current map?

One more question . . i am new but I learn fst :)

i am scared to death of running too lean. What is the best option to monitot air/fuel ratio? ie: what device or software? I read that canscan is not the best so I am lost now!

I was set to order the turbo tonight but now I am like a scared little boy! Someone please help!

Innovate PLX M300 wide band, is the best option.....................
looks ugly, but works perfect!

Manuel

Just ordered the kit, I have everything I need here so i will be ready to start on the turbo when it gets here. Heard the o2 sensor is very hard to get out. How many people on here actually were able to use their old o2 sensor? Thanks

chris

Is the Greddy oil pan a 'must have' for their turbo kit?

How 'bout the oil catch?

I plan to run stock boost (for now).

I was able to reuse my old one.

"Must have"... no, the oil catch can neither.

I just got my turbo kit in yesterday, am working on installing the intercooler, front bumper off, intercooler mounts in place but need to adjust them to clear the metal front bumper. Had to remove the stone shield (goes under the front of engine and connects to bottom of front bumper) also, I take it that after the intercooler pipes are ran, it is byebye to the stone shield forever, right? Is there any danger in not having this? Anybody go turbo and still keep the stone shield? Thanks!

Chris

uhm, yeah everybody with the greddy kit still has the stone shield.
Did you get the installation instructions? It shows where you have to cut the stone shield for the piping to clear.
Here's my install help thread.
Go through it before putting it in.

What fuel mapping has to be done in order that i can safely remove my cats with the turbo kit installed? what other suggestions?

3 -- boost controller, greddy oil pan, better fuel/spark management, custom tuning

13 -- without a boost controller there are no means by which the boost is intentionally cut back at high rpm. it may be intentionally designed this way to prevent engine damage, but the compressor housing simply cant flow enough air at a given pressure ratio to feed the renesis..the engine ends up sucking in more air than the turbo can output, so boost begins to drop off. a large compressor housing would solve this, at a cost of less velocity inside the compressor at lower rpms.

14 -- im pretty sure the emanage only modifies sensor outputs while in boost, so with no change and an exhaust restriction would certainly give worse gas mileage. this may not hold true with another form of EMS if the vaccum maps are tuned leaner.

Greddy is claiming the boost falls off at higher rpm's because of an issue with the wastegate which is why it can be corrected with the addition of a boost controller. If it was a problem with the turbo not being able to flow enough, then a boost controller would do nothing to remedy the problem. So I believe the problem is not the housing, but rather the wastegate setup.

i've seen t618z's set to 12 psi with a profec B lose boost as the RPM's climb. the compressor can probably hold 5.5psi or maybe even 7 all the way to redline. but above that, the turbo is a little undersized.

Hey im really new to the scene and i was wandering, I plan on getting the Revi intake system and the Ram air duct. Will i still be able to use this if i decide to get a Turbo Kit later on?

No, not without modification. But why would you want to in the first place? The REVi is a tuned intake, something that is pretty worthless with forced induction. Don't waste your $ if you are going FI.

-MD

Can someone repost the GReddy Install instructions. Link Died. I'm waiting for my kit to arrive and whatever headstart i can will help...

Instructions are in the downloads on my site.

this might help him out too

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-how-use-search-function-rx8club-com-forum-73846/

Indeed. I didn't mean to ressurect this thread, though. Sorry.

Greddy Install Instructions?
 

Can you tell me where I might find the instruction manual for the Greddy turbo kit? I have a kit sitting in my living room. They conveniently left out the instructions!! I have seen a few links to get to them, but none of them work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Go to my site. Its in the download library.

How much increse in hourse power will I get with a turbo as apposed to how much will I get with a suppercharger?

If someone were to make the turbo a ball-bearing would that make any significant hp gains?

No. In fact, all it would do is exacerbate an existing problem.

Why is it good then to get the ball-bearing upgrade for the sfr turbo kit and not the greddy turbo?

Because the SFR turbo is big. The Greddy is small. Search is your friend.

I am plannning on going turbo and have searched the forum for a good long while and haven't found any answers to this question. Once you get a good tune (EManage or Interceptor-X) how often if at all do you have to re-tune it? I am willing ot spend quite a bit of time and money tuning the car but I don't want to do all that tuning only to have the stock ECU just "untune" it with fuel trim over time.

eManage:
If you set-up the emanage according to fix #3 (see also a thread I wrote entitled "better fuel management using the eManage") then the ECU doesn't have the ability, or desire, to change the fuel trims. The tune is locked-in.

Interceptor:
The ECU isn't involoved in fuel delivery at all. It can't change the fuel trims because its removed from the equation all together.

The only reason you will have to retune w/ the Interceptor, aside from adding new engine parts, is due to weather changes. You will probably need to tune one map for the winter and one for the summer. Then make small corrections to each using the temperature compensation map. At least in my case I have found the need to do this.