|
so today i changed the map to "stock style" and drove around the block a few times without hitting positive boost, and it idle perfectly. however when i changed the map to my MM tune and drove around a few times, the idle became erratic... any ideas people?
|
Anyone know a good tuner for my modified rx8 in nyc
|
so the car is still giving me an erratic idle even with the new fuel pump, do you guys think its the injectors being that my Afrs under wot is 12.5?!?
|
update
took the car to my local mazda dealership, and the said it was my SSV. looks like i'm in my garage for the weekend! |
well heres a major update, i replaced my ssv since it was in bad shape. no luck with the idle..
i replaced my o-rings just the other day and reset everthing. no luck again. now i'm kinda blah about it. my car has over a 123k minus the engine which only has 4k on it. i was thinking about checking my o2 sensor and e-shaft sensor. any thoughts guys? |
Are you still running the base calibration or did you ever submit logs to actually have the car tuned? (I don't know who you are from your screen name).
EDIT - Nevermind, I just found your info. Uh, you never continued your calibration service. You are still running around on v4.0.1. You might want to get that done before you chase any other red herrings. It takes at least 5 or 6 iterations before the car is even close to "tuned" and it was apparent in your initial logs that you had some issues that might be caused by a leak somewhere post-turbo. No way I could know for sure with just one set of logs. You are closing in on the 4-month mark, so you might want to dive in before time runs out. Also, VTA BOVs are always a bad idea on a MAF car. |
My car barely idles with VTA. Good luck with the issues. Do a once over on all couplers and recirc if you aren't already doing so.
|
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4056355)
Are you still running the base calibration or did you ever submit logs to actually have the car tuned? (I don't know who you are from your screen name).
EDIT - Nevermind, I just found your info. Uh, you never continued your calibration service. You are still running around on v4.0.1. You might want to get that done before you chase any other red herrings. It takes at least 5 or 6 iterations before the car is even close to "tuned" and it was apparent in your initial logs that you had some issues that might be caused by a leak somewhere post-turbo. No way I could know for sure with just one set of logs. You are closing in on the 4-month mark, so you might want to dive in before time runs out. Also, VTA BOVs are always a bad idea on a MAF car. jeff, i will be continuing the tune with you starting next week, since i'm on vacation!! so hopefully we can find out whats going on! But my main concern is the fact it wont idle in the morning when starting the car up. soon as it warms up past the cold notch, its erractic!! cattywampus: i thought wit the HKS BOV since its a pull type diaphragm or whatever its called. its able to hold better then most BOVs? |
Originally Posted by jtripp06
(Post 4056762)
jeff, i will be continuing the tune with you starting next week, since i'm on vacation!! so hopefully we can find out whats going on! But my main concern is the fact it wont idle in the morning when starting the car up. soon as it warms up past the cold notch, its erractic!!
Originally Posted by jtripp06
(Post 4056762)
cattywampus: i thought wit the HKS BOV since its a pull type diaphragm or whatever its called. its able to hold better then most BOVs?
Unfortunately, almost all of the HKS SSQ BOV units I've seen over the last 3 years have been counterfeit. |
Jeff, I have the ssq... what do you look for to find if it is authentic or not?
... im hitting google now, but if you have insight it would be much appreciated :) |
^ +1 I ordered mine from Ray, I'm hoping that means authentic...
Also gonna google but if someone has insight I'd also like to take the easy way out :) |
The fakes rage from very obvious to almost indistinguishable from the real thing.
Some have a different body design with more or less "fins". Some fakes have a tension adjuster (the real thing does not). Some fakes don't even say HKS on them. Generally, the real thing will not open, no matter how much pressure is on the inlet, if there is no vacuum on the signal port. I had a fake for several years (purchased directly from and authorized HKS retailer in Maryland who was very surprised - and I can vouch for their voracity - that they were selling fakes). IIRC, I got my current authentic HKS from BHR and the other HKS SSQ BOV that have come through Ray to me for other customers have been the real deal. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4056355)
Also, VTA BOVs are always a bad idea on a MAF car. |
Not really. You just lose a lot of throttle response and power going up gear to gear.
|
well i just checked mine and its real!! lmao
|
^how did you confirm this?
|
|
It just shows you a possible fake scenario. The only way to verify if your valve is doing what you paid for is a pressure test of the cold side plumbing. |
interesting. Its terrible that the market is littered with knock-off products.
|
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4056969)
That confirms nothing.
It just shows you a possible fake scenario. The only way to verify if your valve is doing what you paid for is a pressure test of the cold side plumbing. gotcha!:banghead: |
so to test, you try to open it with pressure on the inlet and no vacuum?
|
I guess the other question is do the knock-offs come in HKS boxes with instructions, hose, filter and the works?
I feel pretty confident that mine is authentic but on the other hand its always nice to check for sure. |
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
(Post 4056981)
so to test, you try to open it with pressure on the inlet and no vacuum?
You will be surprised how many leaks you probably have, but the discharge of the BOV should not be one of them.
Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
(Post 4056988)
I guess the other question is do the knock-offs come in HKS boxes with instructions, hose, filter and the works?
|
easy enough. could just take the greddy c4 pipe out with the bov attached and pressurize it to 20 psi and check if it holds. for me thats a lot easier than removing the bumper to take the filter off.
|
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
(Post 4056995)
easy enough. could just take the greddy c4 pipe out with the bov attached and pressurize it to 20 psi and check if it holds. for me thats a lot easier than removing the bumper to take the filter off.
You can do that, though I highly recommend checking the whole system. You can go under the car and pull the pipe that goes to the intake of the turbo and cap it there. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:04 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands