Jeff,

thanks,

I would advice all of you on our progress on the car........

Manuel

CEL Light Has Been On since i installed My Midpipe, Car is Running absolutely fine, U jus got some bad anal issues dude, all u gotta do is pull the code if ur so worried and see wat the act problem is, then your straight

That is until your engine falls out :D . I hate the CEL as well, because how will you know when/if there is a real issue, the light will just stay on. I have the CEL on my car, but my mechanic told me it is because of the pullies. I really, truly hate the SR Motorsports pullies. I am going back to the stock units in a few weeks.

what tires you plan on going with ?
make sure to get some power down and show us some #'s to talk about
good luck and keep up the good work :)

You need an education.

First:

When you say your car is "Running absolutely fine", how do you know? Feel? Fact is, you have no idea.
If the CEL is on for a CAT code (rear O2 sensor), you will have LONGTFT issues. You A/F sucks and you are loosing power. Your butt is not a dyno.

Second:

If you are going to impugn my statements, you had better learn to spell. It is hard to understand your unsupported statements buried in your incomprehensible language.

Oooooooooooooooooo

Ouch :)

Some one ask me about my plans for new tires,

well a few days ago I send and email to the people of tire rack and they
don't have to many options for autocrooss tires on 19" wheels.
they recommend me the Yokohama AVS sport this tires has 180 tread A traction A temp
as the people of tire rack tell me.

The other day I run the car with only 22 psi on the rear tires and the traction
was better using my gtech I make 3 runs on the 13.85-13.94 range.
A lot of people don't like gtech numbers but for me is just a toy to have and idea of the progress of the car. After install the new maps from Jeff and installed the fuel pump I have plans to run the car on our local race track the problem is that is only 1/8 mile track.
There is a few 1/4 mile tracks in Puerto Rico but they are near 1.5 hours from my house
the 1/8 mile one is just at 20 minutes........

I need to get better traction!

If you know other website with other tire option please let me know..........
I would prefer a lower tread than 180..........

Thanks,

Manuel

Does anyone recomened or has the AEM a/f gauge its the AEM wide band ..... i was thinking about ordering it to get the true read out of the A/F b/c my CEL is on and the O2 fooler doesnt work .... or is there another trype that someone recomends ??? thanks
Shane

I use the LM-1.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

Hey Jeff , i am going to order the AEM wideband and i was just wondering .what is the car "supposed" to run at as far as A/F . it wont help if i dont no what it supposed to run at .... i really dont understand the whole concept of it .... so it more like a safety thing to make sure the car is running properly ???
thanks again
Shane

Manuel, do you mean MORE than 180 treadwear ? Less is not good unless you are looking at R-Compoun racing tires. I personally have the 235/35/19 & 265/30/19 Toyo T1S tires on my car & they are great. Although they should be shortly introducing it's replacement in the US (Out in Canada & Europe already) the Toyo T1R which seems better in every respect. Treadwear is 280, and many of the autocrossers on this board go with the Toyo's. I have the Racing Beat springs on my car which lower my car about a 1/2", but if I had to do it again I would have gone with the 275/30/19's on my car (on 9.5" rim) & 245/35/19 up front (8.5" rim). The two tires you may want to look at that are coming out soon are the Toyo T1R & Falken Azenis ST-615 (between a Max performance & R-compound tire with 200 treadwear rating). On the higher end tires like the BF Goodrich Comp TA KD, Michelin Pilot Sport 2, & Bridgestone S03 Pole Position tires are all very highly rated.

Fanman,

Thank you for your recommendations....................
We're you buy your Toyo T1S?

Thanks,

Manuel

Well, technically, there is no "set" number.
However, you would probably like to see 11.5:1 up to 12.5:1 under boost at WOT all the way through the rev band.

Manuel,

www.edgeracing.com

They had really good prices on the Toyos. Again, if you can wait, or shop in Canada you may want to wait for the T1R's, though I like my T1S's a lot.

Fanman & RX8PR - I spoke with a rep from Toyo regarding the T1R. He was currently testing them on his Integra Type-R and he said that the T1R was an amazing upgrade from the T1S even though the T1S is an already amazing tire in itself. He also said that it wouldn't be available in the U.S. for quite sometime, maybe this fall at best.

I researched the ST-615's as well but they only go up to 18's. Since I went with 19's it ruled them out and I had to go with the ST-115's. Great looking tire none-the-less.

Jeff,

I have plans to install your map tomorrow morning (friday).

My tuner already has the software or support tool.
First time we try to make some changes but can't do it
because is password protected. Now we have your maps!

Please can you tell me exactly how "initialize" the emanage.

Thanks,

Manuel

When the Support Tool connects to the E-Manage, you will get a password window with a "Clear MAP" button. Just click that and the E-Manage will be empty.

That's too bad that the T1R won't be here for awhile. Sounds like a great tire, & I read the tech packet for it & it sounds like a great tire. Oh well I only have like 1,500 miles on my T1S's anyways so I won't need a new tire for a while.

Yesterday we work until 9:00pm.......

installing the new fuel pump and return line.
We spend a lot of time trying to opening the fuel tank.........and the tank don't open.
At the end of the day the people from mazda give us and special
tool designed to open the fuel tank. The Tank it's divided on two sites and the original fuel pump it's designed to send fuel from one site to the other of the tank, it's a system that we never see it. We spend some time learning how it's function but at the end we installed the new fuel pump. The original fuel line now would be the return line, we installed a new line
(bigger) to send the fuel to the engine.
We don't finish yet.................
Today (saturday) we will finish and them make a few dyno runs

Manuel

A/F ratios
 

Jeff is right, there are no "set" A/F ratios. I have been tuning turbo charged
rotary's for many years and have found keeping the A/F in the 11's makes good power and does not brake engines. I think you will find a little more power in the 12's but not enough to justify reducing the safety factor. I can tell you the setup we have in a customers car "Loube" on the forum, which is a stock fuel system with the Greddy Turbo kit yields A/F's of 11.3-11.5 under full throttle @ 6 psi. It has a wideband on board and a E0-1 controller. We will be at the dyno next week turning up the the boost and pulling timing in an effort to find the limits of 93 octane with 10.0/1 compression!!! Stay tuned!!! Best of luck on the dyno today RX8PR...Scott, owner Mazsport in Largo Fl.

Good to see you here, Scott.

Last Tuesday I made it to " el psiquiatra" , thanks for the driving directions, I got my RB exhaust and by the way I saw your car in the shop . I hope you are done with the fuel pump. Keep us all posted I will like to see it again once you are ready. Take care.

We finished everything on saturday morning!

That was not easy........the factory pump has a design that first we learned how
functions before make any changes.
We installed a new fuel line (blue and red on the picture) bigger than the factory one. We are using the factory one as a return line.
Our system is installed with a vaccum to increase 1 psi of fuel pressure per 1 psi of boost.

We put the car on the dyno and installed the map that Jeff post on this thread
but the car was at 10 FAR or lower with that map, because with the new fuel pump we was sending more fuel to the engine.

We begin to creat our on map based on our dyno runs and now our FAR is on the
11.6-11.8 ratio now the car makes 258 HP in 3 gear and 271 HP in 4 gear but without the lean problem.
Thank you Jeff for your help with the map.

Manuel

Here a copy of two of the dyno runs.


We maked a lot of other runs with 8-10 psi and the car runs without any detonation because now we have a lot of fuel.
With those boost pressures we check our dyno and the car at 4,000 rpm was making 30 HP more than with the normal setting of 5 psi. The problem was that ones the car increases rpm's we lost our boost and when we ended at 8,500 rpm with our boost near 6 psi.

We keeped the car runing at the same 5 psi boost as came from greddy, until
we installed and external wastegate. Remember, this greddy kit came to run at 5 psi and we need to make a few changes to run it at higher boost.

Now the car is making the same HP but the drive is much better. We increase our "gain" on the profec type S and the car "opens" more quickly and now I'm not
freak of those FAR. Now my CEL is OFF!

Manuel

Fanman,

I check the Toyo T1S tires add edgegeracing.com vs. my actual Ventus sport K104 and they look very similar same treadwear,Y rated, etc.

Do you believe that I would find a big difference on traction if I buy those T1S?

I want to get better traction for the car if you or anyone has experience using/comparing
this tires please help me ...................I would like to make a good investment
on new tires.

Thanks,

Manuel

Sorry, I've never tried the Hankook tires. Tread seems similar, but many times it has more to do with the rubber compound (if the tread pattern is similar). If your Hankook tires are new, semi-new I would tell you not to bother switching to the Toyos. Maybe you can wait for the new Toyo T1R's to come out (like success said maybe the fall). Unfortunately they do not make Toyo RA-1s in 19" (this is their R-Compound tire). BTW, I have had several friends that had the Yokohama AVS sport on their car, while it rovided very good traction it wore FAST. Some had to swap out tires after as little as 8,000-9,000 miles.

WOW been a while since i checked this thread out..congrats on all teh kick a$$ work you've put into it. i am jealous. i hav eto print all this out so when i get to that level in my car i'll knwo what to do:D thanks and keep up the great work.

Fanman,

My Hankook are like new............... I check the web and in a few canadian web sites are selling the T1R near $450.00 and they specify that the tire it's to sell it in the Canadian market...............
The people from tirerack recommend me those Yokohama AVS sport as and option.

I wondering if I change my factory springs to TEIN or other aftermarket springs can help
me to get better traction...... what do you think?

Thanks,

Manuel

Are you having a traction or wheelhop problem? I am currently running 225/280 rwhp and have no trouble with wheelhop. With numbers like ours there is no such thing as traction in first gear.

CRH

Army RX8,

Thank you.............

Talking about the next step, I alredy buy and external wastegate and we have plans to install it this week. The reason is that after installed the new pump we run our car on the dyno with 9-12 psi range of boost without detonation problems but the internal sytem that came with the kit can't keep the boost constant, we lose our boost when the rpm's goes up.
Let's see if we have HP improvements.......................


Manuel

Charles,

As and option we are thinking on change our differential gears from the factory one to at least a 430 . Some one tell me that the factory one is a 410.

Thanks,

Manuel

Are you kidding the factory gear is 4:44 for the 6-speed...

Nice to finally see the light at the end of the tunnel with the GReedy kit , great work guys and good cooperation . ;)

cheers
michael

The prices on the Toyo T1R are crazy. Even if that is Canadian $, if you convert it to US $ that is still over $350 a tire. The Toyo T1s, while it is a good tire, is a good choice because it is relitively inexpensive. At $300+ you might as well look at the Michelin Pilot Sport2 or bridestone Pole Positions. Both among the best tires for traction. If max traction is what you need, and you are willing to sacrifice wear, you can go with the Michelin pilot Cup Sport, which are R-Compound race tires, but treadwear is usually about 50-100 on those kind of tires. Would not give you the treadwear of a "regular Max/Ultra High Performance Tire, but way more traction.

Fanman,

I check the web again and on this site: http://www.1010tires.com/tires/Toyo/

they sale the T1R on 235/35ZR19 at $375.99 and 255/35R19 at $414.99.

The T1S on 275/30R19 was at $238.00 at edgeracing.com

I would check those michelin in the future...........

Thanks,

Manuel

Rotoman,

It looks that the guy give me a wrong information.........
if the factory gear it's 444 let's see with my mechanic what we're going to do.
Thank you for your help!

Manuel

Yeah, I looked at that site. It is supposed to have a US $ conversion, but when you click on that the same price as the canadian $ comes up. If you convert candian $420 to US $ it comes out to US $350. At that money $ it is over $100 more than the comparable T1S and personally too expensive. At $238 the T1S makes sense, as it is about $50 to $75 less per tire than a Pole Position or Michelin Pilot Sport. At $350 (T1R) it is more expensive than these other alternatives and does not make sense.

once you get to tune the emanage what will you boost then? considering the high compression i suggest only a max of 10 psi, that should be good for 310hp maybe?

We have plans to run the car between 9-12 psi..................
remember that we replace the factory fuel pump and we don't have detonation
problems.
We already run the car with 12 psi but one the rpm goes up we lose our boost no matter that we already has a boost controller.........
Now the car is on the mechanic, he is installing a turbotenics evolution waste gate
we spec to resolve this boost problem with this waste gate.
The car would be finish on Monday afternoon or Tuesday morning,
I would put it on the dyno and post the results on this thread.
We would run the car with different boost settings and change the map of the car depend on the dyno runs we would make a decision and keep the best one.............
As you're thinking our goal is to brake the 300 HP!

And we would not stop on that number...............

Manuel

You won't make it to 12 PSI on the factory injectors. The fuel pump won't change that.
Even if you are running at 80 PRI of fuel pressure, you are still only good to 10 PSI at best.

Manuel, did you replace the factory fuel pump out of need or just in case the volume began to be too low at higher levels of boost? What did you replace it with? I am wondering if you discovered, firsthand, what the factory fuel pump is capable of supporting, h.p. wise. Jeff has said in the past that he thinks the factory pump should be good for well into the 300 h.p. range. I am having a bit of trouble with the nitrous system on the top-end and I hope it is something simple like worn plugs or insufficient fuel supply. Right now, up until 8000 rpm, the nitrous is unloading the front suspension in first and second gears. Once I get to 8k, however, the engine doesn't seem as strong and the intake is making a weird sound. It's not detonation but something else. It sounded like this when I ran 106 octane in it and I figured the ignition system wasn't strong enough to light the mix. I have closed the plug gap down a bit to see if the coils were running out of voltage. It seemed to help a little. I'll have to make sure I keep an eye on my fuel pressure gauge while making my passes.

CRH

^^sweet i can't wait till monday/teusday. you hav eme drooling at work anticipating what kinda numbers you'll put down. :D

Jeff,

Thanks for the advice!

On my wish list, one of the next things it's to change the injectors.......


Charles,

I changed the fuel pump because when we try to increase the boost the car begins to detonate on 4 gear at high rpm's and we was running to lean, 13.2 13.6 FAR.
That think was not "plug and play" the factory pump came on a housing or a case that we needed to understand it before making the change,we also installed a bigger fuel line and keep the factory one as the return line.

we installed the fuel pump with a regulator and with a vacuum line for every psi of boost
we increase the fuel pressure 1 psi.............now we have 11.6-11.8 FAR.

Army RX8,

The car was supposed to be ready for today morning..............
my mechanic on Friday morning call me and he ask me that we work
on friday until late. I tell him that slow down, I prefer to wait
but that he make the work without pressure.

I would post here the results..........

Manuel

Manuel, after taking a few runs in my car to check the nitrous situation I have found my fuel pressure to be steady at 56-58 psi at 8,000 rpm's/WOT with a 65 h.p. jet in the nozzle. I also have the N flash, which is said to slightly richen the A/F ratios. I am thinking Abrams may be right when he said the fuel pump is good well into the 300 h.p. range.

CRH

Its a 155 lph pump at low voltage. Probably over 250 lph at high voltage. Should be good for even more than 300 HP.

Those numbers are approaching Supra pump territory.

CRH

Let see what happen at the dyno.............

Usually we make more than 10 runs looking for the best settings,
then goes to make some street runs and if needed change the map again.

Thanks,

Manuel

Hey Manuel,

I lived on Rosie Roads Naval base for about 3 years, in Ceiba. Where is Manati? It must be on the west side of the island since I never got over there too often. That's awesome you got your 8 there, what do you do to afford that??? You've gotta be one of the quicker cars on the island now!!!

That naval base is closed now!

Manati is right on the north shore about 45 minutes from San Juan.
Puerto Rican's love rotaries here you can see on the auto shows RX1, RX2, RX3 etc, etc.
On the street you would find many RX-7 first, second and third generation. When you go to the track 70-80% cars are using rotary engines.........there is so many rotary cars here running on the 6.7 - 6.9 sec on the 1/4 mile.
My RX8 is one of the quicker on the island but there is a lot of street legal RX-7 3rd generation that are making 420 HP at the wheels.
We would continue working on my car....................my mechanic is considered one of the best on the island working with rotaries and we spec to improve a lot more on HP.
I really don't know when I'm going to finish improving on this car.

Manuel