True,but here is my simple solution.In my TII it was called the Air Bypass Valve,itopens when it sees 11inHg vacuum after the TB.

Ah.... I see. I'm using only one pressure gage for the boost controller, gage and EMS.

Most boost controllers (the E-01 included) will leave the control valve open if the boost sensor sees vacuum.

I was playing around with the 'start boost' setting on my e01. Definitely made the problem a lot worse. I guess that turbo is so spin-happy there's really no reason to have the 'start boost' in effect anyway.

Actually, the start boost is effective when dependant on gain.
Try these settings:
Set 50kPa
Gain 0
Start Boost 20kPa

I hit 50kPa like a surgical scalpel and hold it right to 8900 or so where I usually let off.

Kind of off topic but I have a question or questions that has been burning a hole in my head and you guys seem to know the Greddy turbo kit the most. I been looking for the answer for this for a while but I want a defenetive answer. I have a late 05 8 (if this make any difference). I been hearing that you have to reset the ECU every time you start the 8 with the greddy turbo kit, is this true? Would I have a CEL? Would this fixes on this thread make it better? What is LTFT and why is it so important? Since this is the only turbo kit out that "works" I'm considering one.

Sorry if you guys are tired of answering this question but I need to get it out of my head. I did do a search but all I got was old threads and I wanted new info.

No. That would be really annoying. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/portal/smiles/pissed.gifYou want to let the PCM get accustomed to the turbo response and fuel values. If the tuning is way off, eventually the drivability might degrade to the point that you will want to restart the PCM.

Perhaps. Depends on your circumstances. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/portal/smiles/icon_shrug.gifHowever, with the newest version of the kit and the fixes outlined above, it is not likely unless you did something wrong on the install.

Absolutely.

Long Term Fuel Trim. This is how the RX-8 PCM calibrates the response of the fuel injectors. Basically, the PCM tries out a preset duty cycle for every load point it encounters and then compares the front O2 sensor output to see how accurately it get the desired A/F. If the A/F is off, it applies a "correction" value to the preset value (Short Term Fuel Trim - STFT). The average of all the measured correction values are saved as the LTFT, which is then universally applied to the injector control.
The problem that arises is that the PCM sees all kinds of strange A/F behavior under boost and attempts to "correct" it with crazy LTFT values.
Tim's tuning utilizing this new injector setup seems to alleviate the PCM self-tune issues under boost.

mm,
on that note, if the ltft is a positive # is that adding or taking away fuel?????

beers :beer:

Thanks MM

Adding. It is expressed as a percentage (0% to about 30%) of a somewhat mystical number - the maximum engineered tolerance. It is probably in the 30% range of total fuel capacity.
So a LTFT of 20% would be 20% of 30% of 100% duty cycle or about 6% added to the output duty cycle.

Most people are getting negative numbers indicating that the PCM is trying to take away fuel because of a perceived rich situation.

not to thread hijack,
mind if i pm you about this. got a ??? or two.

beers :beer:

[James Brown] Hit me! [/James Brown]

So you're in 'auto' mode. I can't get my e01 to learn.

I'm about to go move the wastegate signal right now. I'll report back in a little bit.

No, that is manual mode.
When you are in the display mode, hit the big button to cycle through the boost control settings and set the first one to manual. Then set to 5kPa, gain to zero and start to 20kPa.

Jeff, good job on the work with the eManage. I've always been one to just recommend people go elsewhere for ecu solutions as I never felt it worked good. That's true if anything is done wrong though so good job in getting a cheaper alternative that many already have to work to a useable level which it definitely does not do as Greddy supplies it. It makes me wonder how good Greddy really is when they can't even make their own product work properly. Then again I've always thought that way of Greddy when it comes to electronics.

Well, I think Greddy has a lot going for it, but they are not very good at finishing what they start.
Someone over there must know what they are doing because their fit and finish is good and their layout, design and fabrication is really good. Then they seem to loose interest in what they are doing and move on before it is really ready for prime time. They are a bit like a kid with ADD.
Their electronics are the same way. Incredible design and execution then no real usability process.

That said, I think they view themselves as facilitators rather than producers of a finished product. At least, that is the way I view them.

The reason I said you must be in 'auto' mode is that I get no pressure units when I'm in manual mode - I only have units of %.

Oh yeah. I guess it doesn't indicate units. I don't have it in front of me at the moment.
Sorry.

Okay. I just got back from my test drive with the new wastegate signal location. What a difference! The throttle response is much, much smoother now. Small changes in the position of the throttle used to result in crazy fluctuations in power as you entered boost. With Jeff's new setup that hypersensitivity is gone. The drivability is greatly improved! Also, I can take-off from a light at medium speed. It used to be all or nothing.

GREAT WORK, JEFF! :beerchug:

Here's a pic. I used a 1/4NPT - 1/4 hose barb fitting.

:101384_l:

Got my replacement LC-1 in today, too. This time, its thoroughly wrapped in thermotec. I donno what's making them burn-out on me...

Its time to tune! :rock:

Where are you actually mounting the unit?
Where is the sensor as well?

The controller is kind of next to the firewall, behind the intake manifold. The sensor is on the expansion section of the cat housing.

I wonder if the heat rising off of the exhaust manifold is affecting your LC-1?

I have the unit mounted inside my passenger-side aero skirt just in front of the rear wheel.
The sensor is in the mid pipe, about a foot from the rear O2 sensor. I don't have a CAT, so I can mount it there and still get acurate A/F readings.

Here is your last MAP with added ignition timing control and all of the sub injector values limited to 86%. The remainder I pushed off onto the add injector map.
this should work 1-for-1 since the secondaries are the same volume as the P2s.
The only issue is what happens to the P1s since they are saturated at that point.
I am going to disconnect mine and see what happens. That will leave the add-injector map controlling only the secondaries.
I have already separated my P2s from the add-injector wires as well as the PCM wires.

Nice. A good option for those without larger P2's. Say, what's the definition of standalone again? :ylsuper:

I was suspecting the heat as well. 3 layers of thermotec will hopefully help. Its a bitch getting that bundle through the firewall every couple of months....