Do elaborate with said "flexable Piece". Are you saying that i would beed some sort of rubber hose clamp connectoin in the line to reduce the stress, or is there some kind of special piece or fitting one can buy?

 

What MM is saying is that you need to have a rubber hose that clamps between the hardline and the connection on the engine block, whever that may be.

If you make a solid connection from point on keg to point on chassis, with NO flex, it will fatigue and break. In turn spilling whatever fluid it's supposed to contain.

 

I understand that point. I tottally over looked that. The only three points where it connects from the engine to something thats not connected to the engine is right off the housing to the heatercore and two from the housing to the coolant res. The rubber hose should not have to be directly at the motor connection, but should be able to be anywhere in the line as it should not matter where it gives just as long as it does give.

anything that goes from motor to motor should be fine as a solit hardline though. If the motor moves then so should the hardline and whatever its connected to. Say, the motor to the turbo. turbo should move with the motor since its on the manifold. Correct?

 

I would presume that you should have flex at both ends. like above, having flex somewhere in the middle is optimal

 

Flex at both ends is not happening. Being a rubber line at the motor is exactly why i undertook this project. to get rid of it since its so close to the exhaust and melting. I think if i jsut have a rubber connection somewhere in the middle of the hardlines it shal work well.

 

The engine shifts side to side under normal conditions so the most optimal design would be to introduce a hose that will allow that easily. Necessary for any attachment from the frame to the motor.

 

You could also put some sort of extra movement in the black bottle and or metal plate you made coming off the firewall via rubber gaskets?

I didn't think you were going to do those hoses also? I thought it was only the larger ones? Exactly which ones melted and where? pic's would help on this.

 

The smaller ones were the ones that melted. The biggest problem hose was the one that came from the bottom of the T-stat housing and went to the bottom of the coolant res.

 

The line from the bottle to the LIM point, ditch the hard line altogether and replace with braided teflon. If you merely break it in the middle for a short section of rubber, you leave two long unsupported metal portions that *will* break. Aluminum tubing is intolerant of being "worked"; it will fracture, unlike copper tubing in the same arena. If you MUST keep hard line in there, cut it at the point where it starts to pass the UIM, go about 6", then return to hard line to the bottle. Make a support for the ends of the hard lines, don't just leave them hanging in mid-air.

Rubber hose will flex and bend all day long, but you apply torsion (twist) it'll shred in short order. The position by the UIM would allow flex and minimal torsion when the engine rocks on the mounts.

No, I'm not an engineer. I just worked on USAF jet hydraulic / pneumatic flight control systems for a decade or two.

 

I have noticed that with removing the stock "nipples" off of the stat housing and tapping them for fittings, it has givin me mroe room around the manifold to re route the lines. I may do away with the hardline altogether and go with the braided PTFE line for all of what was rubber hose. I blieve there is enough room now to have it not touching the manifold. If this si sthe case then the 450-500 degree max temp will be plenty for the line. However if i use this line i would still have to find a way to redo the mail lines to and from radiator. Still ahve an aluminum hardpipe as an optioin for them .

 

how did everything go??

 

Well, everything was going fine. It lookes as if it all would have worked as planned. HOWEVER, in the middle of this project i decided not to do a rebuild on my motor and not to stay turbo. Which means, no need for this. So, it was never completed and all is going back to stock. However, i find this to be very doable ESPECIALLY if you were to use the Braided teflon line. If i were to have the esmeril kit back on the car i would do this in a heartbeat instead of going through all of hte coolant headaches i had gone through.