:yelrotflm
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4721695)
More importantly, what do they flow at 15 psig boost back-pressure?
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4721695)
More importantly, what do they flow at 15 psig boost back-pressure?
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Brett changed his avatar! Noooooo!
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32728 less boobs on the site :(
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Since our fuel pressure is 60psi then that is the flow with 15psi boost
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4721833)
Since our fuel pressure is 60psi then that is the flow with 15psi boost
or you can confirm for yourself by sending a pump assembly in with a $60 testing fee to Deatschwerks ... |
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4721837)
it's assumptions like that which result in boom-BOOM rather zoom-ZOOM ...
or you can confirm for yourself by sending a pump assembly in with a $60 testing fee to Deatschwerks ... You can however use the flow vs pressure calculator with differential pressure and see how much differently the injectors will flow at 45psid vs 60psid. Flow vs Pressure Calculator | Fuel Calculators | Resources | DeatschWerks It just the square root of the pressure difference. |
Anyhoo ..............
Update time : Looking at my stripped engine has given me some valuable insight on where to take things from here . The engine did enough miles(25,000) and enough track days to at least provide give me some indication on whether what I'm currently doing is working . Apart from the broken corner seals (and the damage caused by that) the condition of the inside of the engine is pristine. Virtually no carbon buildup and very little wear on either the side plates or the housings. There is also no sign of any wear or overheating around the exhaust ports . While i can't say for sure which of these things helped the most ............ it's the way I will continue to run my engine. *Increase stock OMP calibration by 10% (stock setup - no Sohn) *Run synthetic 5w40 with regular oil changes *75/25 water/meth injection at around 350cc when over 10psi *Limit rpm to 8200 *Increase oil pressure The modification i did to the siamese sleeve earlier and again more recently (which saw track time) does not appear to have had any negative impact . This has given me confidence to stick with another (slightly less aggressive) design . Not only will it flow more than stock but should lessen the likelihood of the divider falling to bits as it is prone to do. I would really like to see if this design does anything for an NA ......... anyone willing to try it ? The only other modification to this next engine, that wasn't on the last one .....will be solid corner seals . |
Interesting choice of corner seals. I have heard of a Australian based builder using solid corner seals with some success.
However, long term performance results will be interesting. |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4723862)
*Increase stock OMP calibration by 10% (stock setup - no Sohn) *Run synthetic 5w40 with regular oil changes *75/25 water/meth injection at around 350cc when over 10psi *Limit rpm to 8200 *Increase oil pressure Pre-mix as well? I also have the OMP in stock configuration, no sohn (I'm assuming you bumped up the flow on mine as well) and I premix every tank. Although I'm nowhere near pushing the limits with the MSP I have been running a stock Greddy for 5 years and the engine starts and runs in all conditions as good as ever. |
Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
(Post 4724005)
Pre-mix as well?
I also have the OMP in stock configuration, no sohn (I'm assuming you bumped up the flow on mine as well) and I premix every tank. Although I'm nowhere near pushing the limits with the MSP I have been running a stock Greddy for 5 years and the engine starts and runs in all conditions as good as ever. |
Originally Posted by skc
(Post 4723950)
Interesting choice of corner seals. I have heard of a Australian based builder using solid corner seals with some success.
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I'm running atkins solid corner seals. I can't say much but I haven't had a problem yet. I'm kind of glad I did after hearing yours broke. But did you have to mill them for deeper apex seals?
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4724094)
I'm running atkins solid corner seals. I can't say much but I haven't had a problem yet. I'm kind of glad I did after hearing yours broke. But did you have to mill them for deeper apex seals?
There is nothing wrong with the stock rx8 corner seal design as it has a solid plug which prevents it from breaking when it gets squeezed by a rotor deforming detonation . When you mill the rotors for rx7 apexs you need to also fit rx7 corner seals . It is a common thing to fit solid corner seals in the rx7 world due to the fact that the stock corner seals have a tendency to break as they only have a rubber core. My engine builder didn't seem to think it was going to be a problem on a Renesis ........ wrong . Further to this , I hope you haven't got the Aitkens corner seals with the recess machined into them .............. they are known to cause premature wear on the irons. |
Well that sucks, I figured the corner seal placement in the rotors was a little different and did not know the 7 corner seals would fit. I do have the recessed solid corner seals. That's a bit disappointing, but it happened before I got deep into the build. Oh well I don't put down enough miles to really be worried.
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4724099)
Well that sucks, I figured the corner seal placement in the rotors was a little different and did not know the 7 corner seals would fit. I do have the recessed solid corner seals. That's a bit disappointing, but it happened before I got deep into the build. Oh well I don't put down enough miles to really be worried.
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I run 30% extra with 4 on the bottom end and 60 max
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4724090)
No premix . Stopped doing that years ago . And yes , I bumped your omp up same as mine :)
I typically don't pre-mix if i know I will be burning the majority of my tank on a highway trip. |
Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
(Post 4724138)
hmmm, how come you don't Pre-mix anymore? Have you talked about it in another thread somewhere? Obviously you aren't seeing any negative effects of no pre-mix but I'm just curious.
I typically don't pre-mix if i know I will be burning the majority of my tank on a highway trip. From that I reasoned that the premix i was doing (at 200:1 ) was largely ineffective. So I decided the best course of action would be to either up the premix ratio to 100:1 ish or just do away with it altogether and up the OMP . I decided to try the later ........... i think it was the better choice ! |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4724092)
You talking about Renesis engines ?
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4724095)
which prevents it from breaking when it gets squeezed by a rotor deforming detonation .
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4724202)
Any clue when the damage happened? Before or after switching to the smaller housing?
In hindsight ............... I think I should have done the rebuild first as I think it could have made a big difference to the spoolup issue that sent me looking every which way for a solution. |
Ahh... Yeah that's a little bit more then freshening up the seals.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4724308)
Ahh... Yeah that's a little bit more then freshening up the seals.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4698039)
It could be for several reasons. The center port could have more flow in total, or it could just be more turbulent flow, or it could have more total contact time.
I think it has more to do with contact time. A cooler sustained torch flame for example will heat metal much faster than a hotter flame which is only on the metal half the time. Even at higher flow rates the exhaust temperature isn't any hotter, it just has a bit more turbulence from the higher flow. 6ms doesn't seem like a lot of time, but that's per revolution, if you think about it like a percentage it makes a lot more sense. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f74130c1b1.png |
Good video, I watched that today.
Question, Brettus, do you have screens in your intake? |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4724949)
Good video, I watched that today.
Question, Brettus, do you have screens in your intake? |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4724963)
I toyed around with different setups for years . These days I run a honeycomb maf straightener . Seems to be the most reliable .
Cool, I was just curious. I run the honeycomb as well as a screen (AEM screen) further up from it. It has been working well but recently the screen got sucked in a bit and my car ran like shit. I am planning on removing it but will need the tune adjusted when I do that so it will have to wait. |
Well good luck with everything Brutus, your journey has been very interesting. Im glad to see you fit a gt35 in the low mount.
My turbo guy is trying to shoehorn a gt35 in the low mount position as well, but he may change his mind. I don't think there is an easy way out for him on this one lol. |
Originally Posted by wankinit
(Post 4725118)
Well good luck with everything Brutus, your journey has been very interesting. Im glad to see you fit a gt35 in the low mount.
My turbo guy is trying to shoehorn a gt35 in the low mount position as well, but he may change his mind. I don't think there is an easy way out for him on this one lol. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4725097)
Cool, I was just curious. I run the honeycomb as well as a screen (AEM screen) further up from it. It has been working well but recently the screen got sucked in a bit and my car ran like shit. I am planning on removing it but will need the tune adjusted when I do that so it will have to wait.
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4725266)
Get him to fit the To4B compressor housing and try again .
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Originally Posted by wankinit
(Post 4725328)
:banghead:
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4725336)
Too late ?
....... Hopefully my car will be ugly fast too. :fingersx: |
9K, this is what I'm running and it's been excellent.
3 5 OD MAF Housing Air Straightener for Subaru 08 Honda Toyota Lexus 89mm OD | eBay Also not too pricey. |
I went with the treadstone one.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4725480)
9K, this is what I'm running and it's been excellent.
3 5 OD MAF Housing Air Straightener for Subaru 08 Honda Toyota Lexus 89mm OD | eBay Also not too pricey. Yeah my custom CAI is made using a housing with a honeycomb from MRP. I just had them make one with the exact ID specs and length I needed. It just blows me away how sensitive it is, no other MAF car i have owned was that sensitive to changes. But I got the new lower profile filter in and installed it today and it's fine. |
Hey brett, what boost control Solenoid are you running. The Mac 45 or 46? Are you still liking it? no problems with small increases in duty cycle making big increases in boost?
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4727161)
Hey brett, what boost control Solenoid are you running. The Mac 45 or 46? Are you still liking it? no problems with small increases in duty cycle making big increases in boost?
To get 2 psi increase in boost i need to add 5% to duty cycle ................... |
ok another note about the boost controller. They seam like you set the hertz, duty cycle, and the pressure they start working the solenoid at. I realize some of them have a over boost cutoff that defaults to the waste gate spring if it's over boosting.
Does it have a target boost and actively try to achieve that boost? Does it just boost to whatever level you have the solenoid set as long as it's below the over boost level? |
Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4728228)
Does it have a target boost and actively try to achieve that boost?
Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4728228)
Does it just boost to whatever level you have the solenoid set as long as it's below the over boost level? |
Small update :
Engine is finally going back together this week . The hold up was in waiting for the US supplier of the solid corner seals . I gave up on that and decided to just modify the stock Renesis corner seals . A friend in the UK tells me this has been done over there with some success . Also planning to port the two end exhaust ports (leaving the Siamese alone) to try improve spoolup . Hope to be back on the road by next week . |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4732434)
Small update :
Engine is finally going back together this week . The hold up was in waiting for the US supplier of the solid corner seals . I gave up on that and decided to just modify the stock Renesis corner seals . A friend in the UK tells me this has been done over there with some success . Also planning to port the two end exhaust ports (leaving the Siamese alone) to try improve spoolup . Hope to be back on the road by next week . |
Look forward to further updates. shame about the solid corner seals
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Making some progress . Just mock fitting turbo setup to engine and making a few minor improvements as I go.
Added a heat shield below the turbo and changed the water piping to try improve siphoning as it was glugging a lot. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f6cdb33903.jpg |
This pic really highlights the time and skill required to fit it all into such a small space while maintaining the smooth flow in the primaries and collector.
Did the turbo guys check the balance when you sent the turbo unit back? Could contribute to bad spool. |
Originally Posted by JimmyBlack
(Post 4733615)
This pic really highlights the time and skill required to fit it all into such a small space while maintaining the smooth flow in the primaries and collector.
Did the turbo guys check the balance when you sent the turbo unit back? Could contribute to bad spool. |
She Runs !!!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5114a64f0b.jpg Earlier photo showing how close the turbo is to the engine plus my new carbon Kevlar clutch: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9b5256ddd0.jpg |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4733492)
changed the water piping to try improve siphoning as it was glugging a lot.
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