233 WHP Greddy Turbo Dyno
05-10-2006, 10:39 PM
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233 WHP Greddy Turbo Dyno
Went to get my turbo Rx-8 dyno tuned and here are the number that were made.
Setup. Interceptor X-EMS
Greddy Turbo
Highflow cat
Mazdaspeed exhaust
Peak Psi was around 9 psi
Looking at other people dyno charts, I should of have gotten very close to the 260whp at these setting. I can think of the following things why the HP readings are so low
1. leak
2. run was done in 4th gear
Setup. Interceptor X-EMS
Greddy Turbo
Highflow cat
Mazdaspeed exhaust
Peak Psi was around 9 psi
Looking at other people dyno charts, I should of have gotten very close to the 260whp at these setting. I can think of the following things why the HP readings are so low
1. leak
2. run was done in 4th gear
05-10-2006, 10:53 PM
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Hey Mike..that does seem low. I was pulling off 260whp off the base map with the Interceptor.
I would think first off that your exhaust may be restrictive...........because of the size of the piping...
What is the size of your mid piping?
You may also want to check the compression on your motor..
I would think first off that your exhaust may be restrictive...........because of the size of the piping...
What is the size of your mid piping?
You may also want to check the compression on your motor..
05-10-2006, 10:56 PM
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Were you holding boost at higher RPM's? What's AFR looking like
I believe the boost dropped to 5psi at higher rpms.
for the AFRs he was using a gas analyzer
also, with the base map, we got 210hp and 174 torque
I believe the boost dropped to 5psi at higher rpms.
for the AFRs he was using a gas analyzer
also, with the base map, we got 210hp and 174 torque
05-10-2006, 11:03 PM
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looks like you have a leak, or bad coils. you do loose alot of torque towards the end.
also pull all the way out to 8 or 8.5 so you can have a better idea of the boost response
also pull all the way out to 8 or 8.5 so you can have a better idea of the boost response
05-10-2006, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rkostolni
5psi is a little low. Adjust your WG actuator and you should be able to squeeze out another 2psi.
Was this a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet?
Was this a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet?
Dynojet
05-11-2006, 01:20 AM
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your dyno chart looks normal to me.
1 - Don't start adjusting the wastegate... you have a boost controller, let it do its job.
2 - The 5psi drop sounds exactly right since you have a 2.5" midpipe. If you want a few more PSI in the high end i would recommend getting a 3" Midpipe (no cat), or RPs 3" High Flow Cat.
3 - CRH is right about your dip at 6.5k... thats very common on RX-8 Dyno Plots
Knowing your AFRs will be useful. If you can find out what your AFR was near the top end, please post it.
Why did you stop the pull at 7k? It seems like you still had more hp to go eventhough boost was dropping off.
-hS
1 - Don't start adjusting the wastegate... you have a boost controller, let it do its job.
2 - The 5psi drop sounds exactly right since you have a 2.5" midpipe. If you want a few more PSI in the high end i would recommend getting a 3" Midpipe (no cat), or RPs 3" High Flow Cat.
3 - CRH is right about your dip at 6.5k... thats very common on RX-8 Dyno Plots
Knowing your AFRs will be useful. If you can find out what your AFR was near the top end, please post it.
Why did you stop the pull at 7k? It seems like you still had more hp to go eventhough boost was dropping off.
-hS
Last edited by BigOLundh; 05-11-2006 at 01:23 AM.
05-11-2006, 01:40 AM
#18
Originally Posted by BigOLundh
1 - Don't start adjusting the wastegate... you have a boost controller, let it do its job.
The boost controller can withold the signal all it wants, the WG will still open because of the pressure.
Tightening the arm will allow it to hold more.
05-11-2006, 03:42 PM
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Update
Drove the car today, at around 4000rpm while adding gas I heard a "pop" it wasnt very loud. switch into 3rd gear and the car didnt accelerate as before! it felt very much like stock.
I opened up the hood, looked at the connections and I was shocked in what I saw!! The intercooler coupling jumped out of its place! It appears as one of the clamps was loose and I was losing air from day one.
Drove the car today, at around 4000rpm while adding gas I heard a "pop" it wasnt very loud. switch into 3rd gear and the car didnt accelerate as before! it felt very much like stock.
I opened up the hood, looked at the connections and I was shocked in what I saw!! The intercooler coupling jumped out of its place! It appears as one of the clamps was loose and I was losing air from day one.
05-11-2006, 04:13 PM
#22
Yeah, that'll happen from time to time - especially if you are using the crappy spiral clamps that come with the kit.
I only use T-bolt clamps on the pressure-side couplings. Specifically, Turbonetics clamps. They are garanteed to not come off if properly clamped on a beaded pipe.
However, the likehood that this was producing some sort of boost leak prior to popping is slim.
Usually, the coupler will be pushed right up to the bead with the clamp still in place until it pops off.
I only use T-bolt clamps on the pressure-side couplings. Specifically, Turbonetics clamps. They are garanteed to not come off if properly clamped on a beaded pipe.
However, the likehood that this was producing some sort of boost leak prior to popping is slim.
Usually, the coupler will be pushed right up to the bead with the clamp still in place until it pops off.
05-11-2006, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by OfficerFarva
O, well congrats on finding the prob. JW, which one in particular was loose?
The arrow pointing to the spot is where the piping jumped out. Looking back it is very likely that the clamp was not properly bolted down. I am using the t-clamps
05-11-2006, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Notice that the dip in Tq/Hp occurs when the third ports open up at 6,250 rpm's. That is going to be the case, no matter what, as the airflow of the engine changes dramatically at that point. The 5 psi is a concern, as was previously stated. Keep tweaking and you'll get that few more pounds you are seeking. A quick check of engine condition can be made by making sure that the engine's idle vacuum is between 15-17 inches/Hg and steady while idling. Use the capped vacuum ports on the aluminum lower intake manifold.
CRH
CRH
Yes, I also did the change there. I will be running the boost gauge and the BOV from that source. And the interceptor and boost controller from the nipple that is right behind the throttle body. When I did the dyno run, I had all of the things sharing the same line.
05-13-2006, 04:17 PM
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Hey Mike,
I talked to Mike from DL and he mentioned the issues you were running into. Do you think the loose clamp could have caused the stalling under the electrical load problem as well? Sounds like you found the problem ... so you are going to bring it back to Mike's to get her re-tuned and dyno'd again? Let me know if you are as I would love to come down and take a look. He's going to be tuning the eManage for me soon as well.
Cheers,
Zoomby_U
I talked to Mike from DL and he mentioned the issues you were running into. Do you think the loose clamp could have caused the stalling under the electrical load problem as well? Sounds like you found the problem ... so you are going to bring it back to Mike's to get her re-tuned and dyno'd again? Let me know if you are as I would love to come down and take a look. He's going to be tuning the eManage for me soon as well.
Cheers,
Zoomby_U