20B must go on
 

I decided I'm not going to let a con-artist ruin my plans.

and PLEASE stay on topic (20b). If you need the whole story, please visit:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=158568

Bottomline is I need to buy everything and do and re-do everything. More importantly, I also need your help.

Anyway, onto the goodies:
MUCH thanks to rgonza & manuel, Atkins,Pettit, and Jonitauto

Haltech E11v2 with long flying lead kit + 20b harness
M&W ignition coils with ferrite core and M&W CDI boxes
Fluidyne oil coolers and fuel coolers
Remote oil housing
Re-speed Oil housing adapter to remote housing
Fuel rail
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
BOSCH 044 pumps x 2
Oil meter pump w/ o-ring
6 NGK platinum 9-temp plugs
Innovate Wideband gauge/sensor
Turbosmart 60mm wastegate
HKS 60mm BOV
10ft AN-10 line for fuel
10ft AN-10 line for return
10ft AN-12 line for oil
Oil catchcan
water overflow can
Kevlar AN-16 for coolant
CSR electric water pump for dual outlets

20b engine will be REBUILT. too many stories of Scott's engine blowing up on rx7club and here. I'd love some recommendations for reputed rotary engine builder near west PA if possible..

-------------------------------

So in essence, it's like I never paid any money for the swap yet! But I don't have a kid yet, so in the end, I think it'll all work itself out. :cussing:

My approach will be:
1. figure out what i need then order everything
2. figure out and fill up holes in the engine with fittings
3. buy missing oem stuff
4. fuel system
5. water/oil
6. wires/ignition boxes/coils/hooking up with factory ecu
7. rebuild 20b
8. mechanical pedal linkages
9. buy more shit for the rx7 tranny and 20b engine that scott never sent

I can only work on weekends, and I'll start once all my parts are here.

best of luck with it be sure 2 keep everyone updated and pics

Hi stick,

Are you still planning to stick with the original plan to move the engine back as far back as possible? Judging from the custom made Mazsport lower intake, your engine is pushed back VERY far. I hope you could stick with that!

Would be great if this thread stays open =) Stick is probably the king of locked thread. Good luck with your build, and I hope you get your "funding" ;)
________
CumIn5Mins cam

that 20b is in an insanely nice spot. should be a really nice car to drive once you get everything sorted out.

keep your head up and show them you can do it dude.

I'm happy that you're going on with your project. Wouldn't it be easier\faster to find somebody actually capable of doing such swaps instead of working on the car on weekends? A DYI will help us all figure out what's a 20b swap like though.

stick we got 2 really good builders up here a little more east of you....let me know if your interested and ill pm you my number....ill even take a drive over with you so you feel more comfortable about it...now your up here where we take care of our people

i'd probably end up using the same position because i have about 50% of what i need to keep the engine in that position.

cm, pm'd.

good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

stick i gotcha.....as a community we will make it happen!

Good luck Stick!
have you found out who will be doing the work?

Stick, I would look into sending your 20b to Paul from Mazmart. I can't think of one negative thing said about him, or the work of his shop. I have a rebuilt renesis from Paul and the whole process was smooth.

i can agree with expo on that too....or rotary ressurection...heard nothing but good from them

subscribed... this one has got to end on a positive note!

can't wait to see the progress

btw that LIM Scott made kinda looks funny imo :D:

Subscribed....good luck fellow rotorhead! :D:

when the 20b is done it will be priceless because you have gone through to many challenges and still managed to not give up on your project! this really inspires me because you have a crazy story behind your 20b which everybody knows about. the journey of this build is tough, but it will all be worth it in the end. i wish you the best of luck!!

Good luck dude, hope you end up with the car you've dreamed of.

what are you using for a turbo manifold/wastegate/turbo combination? That will greatly affect fitment.

i'll have a professional welder weld the wg flange on the exhaust manifold that i received from mazsport.

as for turbo, gt42.

as for downpipe, i need to either make a new one or most likely add a slight bend to the existing one to clear the subframe.

well for now, can't do much until things get here (ordered M&W stuff and haltech ecu). that also means that i may start on wiring first since i'll have the harness and stuff.

i have a few questions though:
1. what do you guys recommend i do about heat-insulating the wires and protecting them from interference and moisture?

2. i'll post rest of my questions on the photos.

thanks all.

apologies for all the basic questions. current situation doesn't allow me to hire a professional rotary mechanic. and i just have to start somewhere, so here i go.

about the first photo.

#1 will have fabricated adapter connected to remote filter housing

#2 is engine oil fill hole. about #2, some people install vacuum ports here, what's the reason behind it? is this where i would install the oil catch can?

#3 are these water lines for the heater? seems to be running with brake lines, so i was curious.

and where is the power steering pump located in the rx8?

as for the second picture, what do you guys recommend I use to hook up these injector ports? they have no threads or anything.

thanks!

how should i plug the turbo oil ports?

pics attached. just wondering whether to use the o-ring or just teflon tape once again.

turbo's water-cooled, so i'll be just blocking these off.

last question of the day :)

how would i plug these injector holes permanently?

thanks in advance.

A plug with teflon tape should work ok. Even BB Turbo's have both oil lines and water lines.

On the injectors; a Fuel Rail needs to go there; it will hold the injectors in place and also provide tthem with fuel.

The turbo uses oil for lubrication and coolant for.... cooling.

So you gotta run both.

As for the injectors - normally the injector sits INSIDE the fuel rail and has 1 or two o-ring connections. Then the brakets for the rail bolt to the manifold; and the injectors would still have a bit of wiggle room without leaking fuel. I would didtch those metal tops and run it like a normal fuel rail.

Hey Stick,

You don't have to worry about a power steering pump, as you still have the electric Power Steering like a normal RX8.

did stick get banned ?

unregistered user.....dont think i seen that one yet

Stick,

If you got the cash, i would also highly recommend Mazmart/Rick Engman to build you a proper 20B. If I had the cash, I would get him to build it for me. He's by far most experienced and have built 4 rotor engines for Jim Downing and such. You will not find as qualified 3-4 rotor builders like him in this country.

Regarding some of your questions... All I can say is that since you are starting over, you might start looking at other people's 20B builds. I would NOT use that LIM and also UIM added injectors. I have no clue why Mazsport did that but if he hasn't explained to you then I would just go back to stock 20B LIM and UIM... Also, you might start thinking what kind of power you are shooting for and what purpose you are wanting to do this 20B swap... That would better tell those who know what you should do... Personally, my 20B swap, I'm only shooting for about 600-800RWHP. I'm getting it built, balanced, by my builder who I've personally known for past 5 years.

Another great 3 rotor builder is in Florida. His name is Carlos Lopez. He also built many 3 rotor engines for race cars and such. He also balances rotors and built turbo and NA 3 rotors.

Good luck and if you have any other questions, give me a shout. Also, Gordon Monsen who I've mentioned before have 20B NA FD and he's located in PA somewhere.

1st pic.. #1 - I would just use the stock pedestal.. or goto REspeed and get their AN oil filter neck.
#2 - Its not a vac. port.. you could add your oil cat can.
#3 - Those are your fuel line. You might also have to set up a return line for your fuel system.

2nd pic - I would go back to stock 20B set up and get a custom fuel rails for the 20B. I don't like how Mazsport made this and not sure how they were planning to run it.

NO!!! even though turbo is water cooled... main cooling comes from the oil. YOU would have to run OIL to the turbos!! which means, you should use the inlet and return oil lines to the turbo.

Those are your primary inj ports..

I would high suggest you use both primary and secondary injectors.

Also, WOW, that LIM looks like a chop shop job!!! I would NOT use that LIM...

Ok Stick im game. First things first. Dont worrie about the little things like what injectors your gona use. You gotta mount your engine and tranny then build off of that. I didnt see any pics of any mounts, just a hole to put the beast in. I have an easy way for you to mount the motor and tranny and do it lower then you planned or anyone planned. Itl make it easy to get it in and out and give you lots more room for goodies. Do it like we did in this beast

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2ung98buGc

Its a solid piece of aluminum plate 3/8 thick. You drill it out so all the bolt holes line up on the motor, sounds like more work but trust me, itl take you an afternoon to fit the motor to it and it doubles as a tranny brace. Plus your gona have the center of gravity under the axels. Ill look under an 8 at the shop and find you some good bolting points for the unibody. Dont worrie about rebuilding your engine yet, just try to make everything fit first. That way if you get somthing in it you dont freak out since its gona come appart anyway. Next thing is your driveshaft, but mount your motor first. If you want I can ask cam if he wants to sell the one we made for the GT car, if not or if he wants to much money I can make a templet for ya.

The reason I say itl only take you an afternoon is I just did a 2 rotor version for the guy who bought the car before we shipped it to south america 2 weeks ago and still also have the plate for the 3 rotor, acualy we still have the perif port motor but im sure you wouldnt want to buy it cause Cam wont sell it so he says but everything is for sale if you now what I meen.

I 2nd on trashing that intake, maybe sell it back to whoever made it cause he might consider it his lifes accomplishment. If you go with the plate im sure you can get the stock intake on the motor.

Also you can plug that oil fill hole, if your going with the plate and just have a can for oil and go dry sump. Man, your gona have alot of room, might want to think about putting in some goodies like a blower :)

as for converting you gas pedal to mech i have had to do do this with my swap. i just bought a firewall mount billet pedal from lokar with a 4ft stainless braided and teflon coated cable. remove the old gas pedal assembly, you get to use the top hole of the lokar pedal into one of the old bolt holes with a 10mm bolt. i welded another bolt to the floor right under the existing one and if fits perfect with the factory pedals. as for the cable just pop a 3/8" hole in the firewall and hook it up.. if you need pics just let me know

subscribing...

Herblenny, they made that lim so the engine could fit as far back as possible, they made it lower, personally I would have used bends instead of that.

Ok, talked to Cam, he said he would let the plate go for $300. You said you have the motor and Tranny. I put some thought into how you should set the motor. You bolt the motor and tranny to the plate less drive shaft. Put stuff on like pullys and the things that might get in the way such as the intake, maybe the altinator and crap like that. Set the assembly under the car in the general area but on the floor. Ok, this is were your gona need to go slow and take your time. Lower the car over the top of the engine till you sit it on the ground, keep in mind you need to lift it back up off. Use shims like concrete squares that you would use for a sidwalk at home depot. Adjust your plate and motor as needed, the key is go slow. Once you have the body on the ground and your motor in the exact spot were you want it, figure out were you need to trim the plate. Lift the car back off if you need to trim parts off of the plate that dont allow the car to sit flat on the ground. Ok, once you do that fab up parts that bolt to points like wear your old motor mounts were and the tranny cross brace. Find atleast 6 points to tie the plate into. Build the mounts strong for odvios reasons.

Ya, with pricetag of $3400 too!
________
BUY E CIGARETTE

Yeh, I kinda underchrged the guys I built these intakes for. I asked a few people how much they would charge for the secound one, they said $1200 +. I didnt charge that much or even close.

Stick---you got class dude--you have class.
You also have guts
instead of seven stock we need to do a stick stock and come help ya out.
olddragger

Or two blowers......:eek:

wow thanks guys. I just read everything! Kane/HB, thanks for answering my questions. In retrospect, I admit some were just purely idiotic questions :), but you've all been really nice. Moon, thanks again for your help. I'm interested, but I first need to figure out how much everything else would cost for the dry-sump conversion before I proceed. I imagine I would need a new front iron and few other supporting hardwares or at the least some connection to the oil pick-up.

Good news! My Haltech E11v2 just shipped from California today. If I get it by this weekend, I'll start connecting the wires. M&W units should be coming any day now.

btw, Moon, I should have some answers for you by this weekend.

that'd be really helpful. I probably have this done at a local shop, but having some idea before approaching the shop for the custom fab would be extremely helpful.

thanks!!

please feel free to post your pics here.

too bad we are so far apart, I'd love to fab up some of this stuff for you

The problem is the engine is so far back that your fuel rail and primaries might not fit without some mods...

Subscribing.