If it was real metal, it would be nice. I'm afraid it isn't tho. Just plastic...

 

its is the smam **** as the nonlighted unit.. it just has a red led in it.

Omicron sound like yours was broken at the base and may have been from the start

Alas if Mod were easy eveyone would have them

 

Thanks for the info. I wonder how easy it would be to have that piece made in aluminum or nickel plated...

 

If you find out, let me know. A proper aluminium gear **** would be nice (especially if we can expect the metal paint to rub off with wear & tear)...

 

The Iluminated **** is bright polished, the stock one is a matte silver...

 

Now here's a thought:

thew, king of all things Titanium, why don't you come up with an illuminated, titanium plated (I presume solid titanium would cost a bit more than ~$200 that the current POS costs :p) similar-shaped **** and sell them? :-D

 

yes yes...omi you are brilliant

 

Maybe somebody could just get a cast of the top bit (the bit that's supposed to be metal), and plate that with something nice . I would take a polished or plated cast top bit off somebody's hands without having to think about it at-all. All that's needed is the original crappy plastic bit (polished or matt finish), a sand box, some molten aluminium and a bit of TLC. :D

 

I love the look of the **** and so ordered one before seeing this thread .... Probably wouldn't have ordered if I knew it was going to be a PITA since I dont have any patience or skill for mechanical/electrical stuff. Now the **** has arrived and has been rolling around in my trunk waiting for me to get a "wire fix" done before installing. So what exactly do I tell the radio electrical repair shop to do before I have the detailing shop actually instal the ****?

From this thread I'm interpreting two options.
Option #1 is to splice in with solder a new braided wire about an inch below the leather **** at the top and about an in inch before the ashtray clip connector.
Option #2 is to disassenble the leather **** to expose the printed circuit board (pcb) and then re-solder new braided wire onto **** pcb at the top and to the ashtray clip connector at the bottom.

If wire is that brittle and susceptible to heat is Option #1 that effective as a long term fix or will it succumb in a few years to transmission heat seepage and break?

Option #2 is obviously more complex but seems proably necessary for a long term fix. I dont see an easy way to get into the PCB in the **** to effect the repair. Can the experienced **** disassemblers provide a little more step by step guidance for me to hand over to the radio repair shop?

Would a dealer "warranty" this instal of a JDM part if I went back to Mazda for the work?

TIA for the benefit of your wisdom. BJ.

 

I installed mine a while back, all was good until this weekend. Took the dog for a ride, and he's rather mental when it comes to rain on the windshield. He likes to chase the wipers.

Well he landed on the sifter boot and managed to disconnect it. I can squeeze and feel the wire for the LED and I got it to flash twice but the dog knocked it loose, and I just have a little highland terror...

Even once its on, its still a little touchy.

That's my project for the weekend.

 

Basically you try and prise out the centre cap without damaging it (I did, but I had 2 gear ***** to play with). Underneath you will find a torque drive bolt that attaches the top to the rest of the **** (an allen key would suffice for this), but you may not even have to take this off as the pcb rests on top of this piece of shiny plastic (but I did).
You then replace the brittle solid crappy wires with nice flexible braided wires at the pcb. Then re-assemble.
Replacing the wires at the base is a lot (lot) easier, but I doubt it will last long . But maybe it's worth going this route until it does actually fail because the complete fix is a real ball-ache... :p

Good luck!

 

Mines just gone again! F**king piece of s**t. My dealer says Mazda are not honouring warranty claims on these either... That goes for dealer installed ***** too!!

 

I noticed my gear *** wasn't lighting last night. Had been a while since I was out night driving. The *** had always been a bit on the loose side but I never tightened it for fear of braking the wire within. Left the car at 2 different garages recently. One to have an exhaust put in (non Mazda shop) and another for a 2 year checkup. I figure one of them noticed it was loose and tighten the *** breaking the wire.

I took the *** off today to have a look at it. The wires cut right at ***. There is about 2mm sticking out which is not enough to work with. How do you fix this? Guess I have to take the *** itself apart. Start at the head? Does it just wedge off from the leather? Is it tabed in place? Guess if I can get inside the *** then its only a matter of finding someone with a solder kit and some new wires. Anyone any pics on doing this?

PS. Whats the trick to putting the *** back on with the wire and not twisting the wire? Seems like you have to take off the gear stick cover to get to the main connection (which requires you unscrew the ***?) no? Maybe when I look at it again it will be clear

Tom.

I can't believe this part costed me 25,000 yen! About US$250!

 

it would be nice if you were able to use an led (leds dont generate heat), that would solve the warming issue. then if it could also tap into the same wiring as the dashbboard lighting that dims. thatd be slick. ive never seen one of the illuminating shiftknobs but i bet you can dremel a stock one somehow for starters....hmm...

 

LED's do generate heat. They are on average only 35% efficient. The remaining 65% goes off as heat. They generate a lot less heat then traditional bulbs. An no infrared emission either.

 

It does have an led and it also is wired with the dash lighting through the dimmer...

 

Here's how it looks like apart:
http://www.verlinden-productions.com...d_Stick_Shift/
Might help for those who need help re-wiring the ****.
Had to do mine after 1 day!

 

Thanks modena!!! That helps a lot. What did you use to get the top off? flat driver? Any tips on getting it off without damaging stuff.

 

hmm i was considering this but 180 bucks for a product that has the quality of a 30 dollar one doesnt' sound so great. i think by not rewiring direclty to the PCM invites failure and another dissasembly, because all of the stress will go to the brittle wire at the ends and break while the mostly good quality braided flexible wire is fine.

 

Sharp, brand new X-Acto knife...
Pry carefully, it will come up sins its hold on their with some sort of glue.
(Works best when the "****" is warm)


Hope this helps.

 

Excellent. I'll give this a go as soon as I find someone who can solder! I presume you glued it back on?

Tom.

 

No need to...
You will see.