Posted Dynolicious Results
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Posting my Dynolicious results from iPhone/iPod Touch.
First run got to 100KPH (60MPH) in about 7 seconds. My curb weight is a little off, so the HP is not accurate.
What other results are people getting?
Cheers
Dean
First run got to 100KPH (60MPH) in about 7 seconds. My curb weight is a little off, so the HP is not accurate.
What other results are people getting?
Cheers
Dean
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The iPhone is calibrated and mounted correctly, as per my post in the other threads.
I just wanted to get the ball rolling and get people posting their results at this stage.
I have a track day coming up, when I am going to try run after run after run, rather than one attempt on a public road.
Cheers
Dean
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It doesn't connect to anything, it uses the built in accelerometer to output performance data. Accelerometers are very accurate, and have been used for 50 years as the primary navigation aid in Airliners/Aircraft (Inertial Navigation System).
As long as it is calibrated and mounted securely, the results are incredibly accurate.
You need to put in the curb weight of the car (i.e. the operating weight including fuel, passengers, and the net weight of the car.
For drivetrain loss, I put 10 HP, as that appears to be about standard.
Flat roads help, but non patrolled ones aren't always easy to find :-)
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This is good that we are discussing it, who knows, between us, we may crack the optimum conditions for accuracy..
The published stock Mazda figures of 230HP, I would take with a grain (small) of salt. Under what conditions did they achieve those figures? Test track on a 15ºC Day? Brand New Car, or a run in engine? At what altitude? With Premium Unleaded fuel? Full tank of gas? Variables like colder air affect performance...i.e. colder the air, the better the volumetric efficiency (hence why some cars have intercoolers)...The denser (cold air is dense) the air, the better (hence Turbos and Superchargers). I have always taken manufactures specs with a grain of salt as the whole point of them is to sell the car, and the conditions under which those results were achieved are not always published or replicable on the street/track. The same car will have differences in performance if it is tested at 5,000ft on a 20ºC Day, and is tested at sea level in 5ºC temps...
Now, I am by no means are car geek, I am only applying my aviation knowledge to the question, so ideas are welcome. I doubt very much, given the amount of mods, different locations, and other variables if two people will get the same results, even if stock.
And finally, there may be an element of disbelief amongst us too...no one wants to admit their 232HP RX-8 is only putting out 200HP :-)
The published stock Mazda figures of 230HP, I would take with a grain (small) of salt. Under what conditions did they achieve those figures? Test track on a 15ºC Day? Brand New Car, or a run in engine? At what altitude? With Premium Unleaded fuel? Full tank of gas? Variables like colder air affect performance...i.e. colder the air, the better the volumetric efficiency (hence why some cars have intercoolers)...The denser (cold air is dense) the air, the better (hence Turbos and Superchargers). I have always taken manufactures specs with a grain of salt as the whole point of them is to sell the car, and the conditions under which those results were achieved are not always published or replicable on the street/track. The same car will have differences in performance if it is tested at 5,000ft on a 20ºC Day, and is tested at sea level in 5ºC temps...
Now, I am by no means are car geek, I am only applying my aviation knowledge to the question, so ideas are welcome. I doubt very much, given the amount of mods, different locations, and other variables if two people will get the same results, even if stock.
And finally, there may be an element of disbelief amongst us too...no one wants to admit their 232HP RX-8 is only putting out 200HP :-)
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Oh, put in 0% to the 'drive train loss' and get the HP at the Wheels, rather than at the flywheel. Lets face it, its the power the wheels are putting down that counts. Mazda tell me my 6 Speed Manual Type S 8 is rated at 250HP. Thats gotta be at the flywheel. 200HP at the wheels?
The rx8 was originally rated at 250 HP and they backed it down to 232 HP. 200WHP for NA is a really good number and not many 8s get that. As Ross_Dawg mentioned, 180-185 seems to be the average.
I've been deciding whether or not to get this app for my iphone (not that I dont have the $13) just dont know if I'd use it all that often
But now that there are people to compare it with I might just get it tonight
But now that there are people to compare it with I might just get it tonight
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Its funny, quite a few people in the other thread seemed to be complaining about 13 bucks. Heres my tongue-in-cheek response to that:
To the guys worried about $12.99.
Seriously, $12.99 in this part of the world gets you a burger, fries, drink and a sundae.
So the guys bitching about the fact it's $13, you have three choices:
1: Speak to a DynoTune rep, and pay $200-$500, and book in a roller run.
2: Purchase a Dyno Tuning Set Up, approx $100,000 and install it in your parents garage..
or
3: Spend $13 on an incredibly accurate personal application, and use it over and over again to multiple runs, after you do your little performance tweaks, and compare. Then output the results in a graph, then print them/email them/mms them/put them in a folder so you can compare and show all your friends. Then, go to your friends house who has a Volkswagen Golf GTI, that is always slagging you off about your Jap' 8, and do a few runs in his car and compare. Then go to a nightclub, start dancing with a hot chick, pull out your iPhone, and show her the graph results of your latest run, and watch as you lead her home to your bedroom.
It's not rocket science. :-)
To the guys worried about $12.99.
Seriously, $12.99 in this part of the world gets you a burger, fries, drink and a sundae.
So the guys bitching about the fact it's $13, you have three choices:
1: Speak to a DynoTune rep, and pay $200-$500, and book in a roller run.
2: Purchase a Dyno Tuning Set Up, approx $100,000 and install it in your parents garage..
or
3: Spend $13 on an incredibly accurate personal application, and use it over and over again to multiple runs, after you do your little performance tweaks, and compare. Then output the results in a graph, then print them/email them/mms them/put them in a folder so you can compare and show all your friends. Then, go to your friends house who has a Volkswagen Golf GTI, that is always slagging you off about your Jap' 8, and do a few runs in his car and compare. Then go to a nightclub, start dancing with a hot chick, pull out your iPhone, and show her the graph results of your latest run, and watch as you lead her home to your bedroom.
It's not rocket science. :-)
It's incredibly important to have the exact weight of your car entered. Weigh it with either a full tank or an empty tank and adjust weight before you run the app. Also include your weight in the car
truck stops have scales and also the dump
truck stops have scales and also the dump
Gallon of gas weighs: between 2.69 to 2.91 kg (5.93 to 6.42 lbs), depending on temperature, type and blend (e.g. with methanol, water, benzene etc). Multiply that times size of gas tank (approx how gas you have in your tank or full tank if you just filled up) + your weight..
-wikipedia
-wikipedia
Last edited by jsjjr; Apr 20, 2009 at 07:44 AM. Reason: additional info



@ dean