Post Your Sub/Amp Setup
01-06-2005, 02:33 AM
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Post Your Sub/Amp Setup
Everyone, Post your amp and sub setup so we can look, compare, and give each other ideas. I just got my 12w3v2 and 250/1 installed and will be posting pics of the install soon. In the meantime, feel free to post your setup if you think yours is legit.
01-06-2005, 06:36 AM
#2
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Oh boy.. I feel like a small fry compared to that. I just have an Infinity Basslink setup in my car.. I was happy with the stock Bose system and just wanted a tid bit more bass.. It works perfectly for me.
01-06-2005, 08:06 AM
#3
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Well when things get organized and my installer is comfortable doing it, I'll have a JL 1000/1 driving either 2 Boston Acoustics 12.5 Pros or 1 JL 12W7. The speaker end depends on whether I feel comfortable fitting two 12" subs in there (as in those are what I already have).
01-06-2005, 11:34 AM
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JL Audio sub/amp
As posted previously, I am using the JL Audio CVS110RG-W6v2:
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS110RGW6v2.html
It contains one 10W6v2-D4 10" subwoofer, capable of handling 400W of continuous power at 2 ohm. The enclosure is 12.75"H x 16.00"W x 11.35"D.
For the amp, I selected the JL Audio e1400D, which puts out 400W RMS into 2 ohm:
http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e1400.html
We tapped into the pre-amp low level signals going into the Bose amp, which I highly recommend doing over tapping into speaker level signals.
Attached are a few pictures showing the sub in the car and the wiring. The amp was mounted to the rear of the enclosure, which is in between the enclosure and the rear seat, so you can't even see the amp when you look in the trunk.
-Carl
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS110RGW6v2.html
It contains one 10W6v2-D4 10" subwoofer, capable of handling 400W of continuous power at 2 ohm. The enclosure is 12.75"H x 16.00"W x 11.35"D.
For the amp, I selected the JL Audio e1400D, which puts out 400W RMS into 2 ohm:
http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e1400.html
We tapped into the pre-amp low level signals going into the Bose amp, which I highly recommend doing over tapping into speaker level signals.
Attached are a few pictures showing the sub in the car and the wiring. The amp was mounted to the rear of the enclosure, which is in between the enclosure and the rear seat, so you can't even see the amp when you look in the trunk.
-Carl
01-06-2005, 01:10 PM
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As I posted earlier I am using a JL 250/1 with one 8w3v2 mounted in a custom enclosure built to point the sub in the passthrough between the back seats. Pics here. http://www.msnusers.com/RX8Sub/
I ported the passthrough lid with the rear rotary accent. Total time on the job was 4 hours.
Amp crossover set to 65Hz. Dynamat in the passthrough and on the underside of the lid. Sub enclosure filled with fiber fill.
End result is rich deep bass that does not overpower the rest of the music. I had tried a 10W0 but that was way too much bass compared to the rest of the music. I am much happier with the 8". I listen to a lot of hardcore reggae music and drum and bass techno. Bass was very important to me but so was the overall quality of the music.
I briefly considered the 8w7 but felt that it would take away too much trunk space for the additional bass I would be getting. In addition it is $400 compared to $160 for the 8w3v2. You can see from the pics that very little trunk space has been lost.
Bottom line: If you have time and you dont need monster bass. Consider mounting an 8" in the pass through. Since I had not heard of anyone doing this before it occured to me i think it should be nicknamed the "Cuzzin Enclosure" :-)
Cuzzin
Hard pounding bass rattles the front doors. I will add some dynamat to the doors soon. I have the 300W factory bose and I think the rattling would have existed even without the new sub. The rattling sounds like metal on metal so I think some cables need to be secured in addition to the application of dynamat.
I ported the passthrough lid with the rear rotary accent. Total time on the job was 4 hours.
Amp crossover set to 65Hz. Dynamat in the passthrough and on the underside of the lid. Sub enclosure filled with fiber fill.
End result is rich deep bass that does not overpower the rest of the music. I had tried a 10W0 but that was way too much bass compared to the rest of the music. I am much happier with the 8". I listen to a lot of hardcore reggae music and drum and bass techno. Bass was very important to me but so was the overall quality of the music.
I briefly considered the 8w7 but felt that it would take away too much trunk space for the additional bass I would be getting. In addition it is $400 compared to $160 for the 8w3v2. You can see from the pics that very little trunk space has been lost.
Bottom line: If you have time and you dont need monster bass. Consider mounting an 8" in the pass through. Since I had not heard of anyone doing this before it occured to me i think it should be nicknamed the "Cuzzin Enclosure" :-)
Cuzzin
Hard pounding bass rattles the front doors. I will add some dynamat to the doors soon. I have the 300W factory bose and I think the rattling would have existed even without the new sub. The rattling sounds like metal on metal so I think some cables need to be secured in addition to the application of dynamat.
01-07-2005, 07:28 PM
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devoid...ooo what kind of carputer is that? how much did it all end up costing you? (if you don't mind me asking..or if you are allowed to post it
)
)
01-08-2005, 11:23 AM
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Simple set-up but serves my needs well. I listen to mostly hard rock, sometimes jazz and a splash of hip-hop so I don't need anything fancy. One JL 10" custom box sub, Alpine V12 500W 5-channel amp powering forward 6.5" Boston Acoustics and sub. Rear speakers are still stock (will replace soon) and are powered by the stock head unit. Also had a cover built to cover the amp so I can still use the trunk space above it.
Thinking of Dynamat in the trunk to tighten up the bass.
Thinking of Dynamat in the trunk to tighten up the bass.
01-10-2005, 09:11 AM
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Dynomat is essentially an asphault compound that is used to "absorb vibration" and turn it into heat. The vibration of course being the noise or rattles you would typically hear.
01-10-2005, 05:46 PM
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Finally got my sub box and amp install finished. Im using a Kicker CVR 10 in the box that 4080 is offering with a rockford fosgate p600.2 amp. Ill post some pics tommorow when i can take them in the daylight.
01-11-2005, 04:16 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by Spazm
My setup -
Rockford Fosgate P3 10" in the 4080 box, with a Rockford Fosgate P6001.
Pics -
Rockford Fosgate P3 10" in the 4080 box, with a Rockford Fosgate P6001.
Pics -
Setup looks awesome
01-11-2005, 04:37 PM
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My setup: Two JL 8W3v2s running off of a 250/1. The tire repair kit has since been traded for a 300/4 to power the insides. Soon, there will be two more 8W3s and another 250/1.
01-11-2005, 04:47 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Spazm
My setup -
Rockford Fosgate P3 10" in the 4080 box, with a Rockford Fosgate P6001.
Pics -
Rockford Fosgate P3 10" in the 4080 box, with a Rockford Fosgate P6001.
Pics -
--Landon
01-13-2005, 03:09 AM
#24
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I have another question about dynamat...Is it easy to install yourself, or do you need a shop to do it? How exactly do you install it? Is there an adhesive or does it just sit there under the panels?
01-13-2005, 09:12 AM
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Audio setup
Well here's mine, it's a JL 250/2 powering (2) JL 10w0's. The amp is mounted in the floor of the trunk with 2 small blue neons, and a plexi window over it. The logo over the plexi is just a static window cling that i put on, it looks great at night glows a blue silver color. I thought about another neon on to of the sub box so that i'd have more light.