Thanks. I might try that as the ferrite chokes that I put in didn't fix the noise problem.

 

Just a quick update. I bought a ground loop isolator last weekend. It fixed the problem amazingly. I think it even improved the quality of the audio.
Cheers for your advice Daisun

 

Incase anyone is still interested in this project. I've completely rewritten my Arduino code, its now available here: https://github.com/dasonwong/rx8navhood

 

Yes still interested
I'm also working on replacing the nav system, this time an Asus Zenpad7 that fits perfectly.
The arduino code is very welcome!
Als do you have a diagram for connecting the arduino to the motor and acc power since these are 12V?
A detailed pic of the arduino and cabling would probably be good to.

 

i got the navhood, i used pins to connect 12v, acc , gnd, illum on the right input, i tested the hood successfully.
I then installed a Huawei Pad 7", which mounts perfectly.
I used an app that turns on/off display using accelerometer, works great.
Then i tried to tidy up everything when i gutted the navhood, and then installed a 12v usb charger to charge the tablet when car is switched on ACC position or ON.
I must have done something wrong while testing.. maybe bad battery screwed up the oem board, the open button now goes only half way and not to the right direction, not always.. tilt no longer works.
Therefore, since i did all this work, i am going to implement the arduino solution after all
Thanks for the code.

 

This is probably because the motor need resetting. This happened with my my sat nav when I orginally got one when I was taking it apart. Some of the threads on converting mention how to reset it. If I remember you need to take the white cog off whilst powering it up which puts the motor in the right place. Sorry not sure what thread but it did work.

 

I know this is a super old thread. But i found your code while trying to install a tablet in my Mazdaspeed3. All my stock boards work in my Navi screen and hood, but I like how yours opens and closes with the ACC power, and an audrino is a lot smaller then the OEM boards in the Navi hood. Anyways I was wondering if you had a wiring diagram so that I can get mine working, I have two wires on my motor, and three wires off the stock potentiometer which from looking at your youtube videos you have also. I am just curious how you wired it up, in reading your code, I saw motorenable pin number and a motordir pin number. But I know the potentiometer has to be wired in. If you could give a brief wiring diagram or draw a simple picture that would save me a lot of time and hassle. Thanks

 

swanky as hell

 

I'd like to do something like this, but just for a GPS, don't need a tablet in there, wouldn't work since I don't get signal out in the country where I live. I figure it must be easier to just install a GPS than a tablet, the tricky part would be getting the hood to open and close.

 

The potentiometer is used for determining the position of the hood. It would have to be wired to an analog input on the arduino. I'm not sure what the wiring diagram looks like, but you could probably sort out the wires with a voltmeter.

I accomplished the movement by using timing because I wasn't using an arduino and didn't have an analog input (raspberry pi), so I didn't investigate too far into the wiring for the potentiometer. My method was fairly repeatable, but I didn't try thousands of executions. Just 40-50 and it didn't seem to creep much. I'm also not finished my build, so I don't have much in the way of help.

I don't understand why Mazda didn't use a cheap stepper motor instead of the motor/potentiometer combo. Seems needlessly more complicated.

 

I would like to install a flip screen on my 07 Mazda RX-8, but I want it to be factory no upgrades just OEM, cause I want it to look that it came from factory,. Mine it doesn't have a flip screen, can anyone tell me what will I need to make it like factory, what cables will I need..

 

The OEM components you will need:

• Navigation Screen and Enclosure
• Nav Software DVD drive (goes in rear console)
• GPS and antenna - can't remember where it mounts
• Navigation controls and front console
• All related wiring

All of this so you can run a (discontinued) navigation system with maps that are 9 to 15 years old.

 

Fantastic work Daisun, I know this is an old thread but I would really like to make the Arduino unit as I have an intermittent fault on the factory PCB currently controlling the nav hood, do you have a step by step guide showing which hardware you used, and how to connect and program the unit as I have never used Arduino before.

 

My conversion :

syncing by Spotify :

 

Hey can I get in touch with you to talk about what exactly you did or what resources you found to do this? I just finished prepping a tablet for install and the nav hood motor is the last piece of my puzzle

 

Ok, so i finished this mod and know about the struggle of wiring everythig together. At some point i was desperate and almost lost hope.
But after a lot of blood, sweat, tears and even a lot more of cursing, i did it. And for all of you who want to do Dason's mod,... i made a wiring diagram! My mod differs a little bit bc i used a 7" Garmin Navigation System, but the main wiring reminds the same. So if you're intrested, let me know...

 

Heya I'm interested in that wiring diagram since i'm still trying to wrap my head around it aswell!

 

Here y'all go! Happy wiring...

 

Thanks for the rapid response! I'm reading through the diagram right now, when it comes to the 12 volts that's going into the device, is it the straight 12v 10amps that the car outputs? Also I was wondering exactly what this switch here is since I'm not too familiar

I'm trying to grasp how this all works, and I'm assuming that the inductor detects the 12v coming from acc, then closes the loop of the arduino which will produce it's own 5v to trigger the accpin 2 for the arduino to recognize that the car is switched to accessory. But I just don't know what that switch is. My other question was to do with this portion of the diagram

Following the 5 volts, doesn't it loop back to the ground that's going to the 10k resistor then to P1? Sorry if I'm not quite getting it, this is my 2nd ever arduino project but without seeing the circuit in physical form my brain just doesn't understand. Did you ever happen to take a picture of how your final circuit ended up looking like?

Thanks!

 

The K1 is a relay you need to add to the curcuit that operates as a switch when you turn on ignition. The P1 gives a value of the position of the screen. No loop back. Works like a charm. I made a small curcuit board where i put on the relays, resistors and other elements on to avoid tangled cables. The Images below are the only ones i made. I hope it helps you a bit...