where in nz are you dean ?

Brettus, Kapiti Coast, you?

Question....has anyone come across a way to automatically switch av sources on the lilliput 629 when the car is put into reverse? I picked up a reverse camera and a spare boot stop lamp that I am fitting the camera into to replace the factory stop light....camera works fine, can manually (with the remote) change AV source...but it would be awesome to have the Lilliput switch sources when I chuck the car in reverse...

Boot Tail Light + Reverse Camera Custom Install
 

Ok, all assembled & tested.

All that is needed is a quick matt black spray of the transparent red bracket, then its ready to go.

Camera hooked up and works fine with the Lilliput, nice wide angle. Not auto switching AV sources yet...thinking of ways to tackle that, driven via the reverse lights...relay/microswitch maybe. At the moment, the AV source is switched by a push button mounted on the dash. (soldered some wires to the Lilliput's physical buttons, ran them out and down to a switch, works a treat, saves using the remote).

Cheers

Dean

www.deanknowsley.com

http://www.deanknowsley.com/tail1.png

http://www.deanknowsley.com/tail2.png

http://www.deanknowsley.com/tail3.png

Equipment fitted into the 8..photos..only small problems...Alternator Whine
 

Ok, all the hardware is mounted in the car.

All went off without a hitch, apart from a tiny scratch on the HU faceplate....dammit. Out comes the fine grit!

Reversing camera is working way better than expected. To reduce reflected glare, I have relayed the rear high light, so when in reverse, the high light doesnt work. Turns out as a bit of a bonus, the camera is a day/night one (I got it with a spare boot lid).

Getting the Nav hood in was a doddle. No dramas.

Only one small issue, getting some alternator whine (a lot actually) when the screen is on. Going to go around in the morning and check all the grounds, see if that fixes it.

Heres some pics taken today after the install:

Now you see it...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/install1.jpg

Now you dont!

http://www.deanknowsley.com/install2.jpg

Wide shot of the reverse camera/tail light mod.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/install3.jpg

Close up...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/install4.jpg

Dash, with reversing camera image, automatically reversed.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/install5.jpg

Any help on the alternator whine would be appreciated. It's only when the lilliput is ON.

Cheers

Deano

Completed ScreenSavers....with youtube
 

Stills and a youtube link as the embed doesnt appear to be working...

The Green technical looks awesome at night, I feel like Michael Knight.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/1screen.png

http://www.deanknowsley.com/2screen.png

http://www.deanknowsley.com/3screen.png

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRQwoqikLJk

when are you coming through Hamilton Dean ? I want to see this :)

Nice install...love the way the mac fits perfectly on the console...btw...wehre did you get the technical screen? I want that too!

I made the technical screen in Quartz Composer. Work as screensavers or iTunes visualisers on a Mac, not sure if PC's can run them. File extension is .qtz Once all is said and done, I will post them for download.

Leet Interweb is teh win
 

Ok, all tested.

Annoying alternator whine is caused by ground loop. I checked, and rechecked all grounds and wiring. It's all good. Bit more reading on the interweb revealed that the most likely cause of the problem is my AUXMOD. So I need to get myself a Ground Loop Isolator.

This neck of the woods is quite hard to get things, but Repco happened to have one in stock further up the coast, so they are sending it down to the local store this week.

Raptor GL1...

http://www.raptor-online.com/i/products/full/GL1.jpg

Fingers crossed, that should (***should***) solve the whining noises coming from the stereo when the carputer is connected to the Bose.

Failing that, I will try an FM modulator...

Failing that, a USB FM Transmitter.

Should be able to update later this week with how it all worked...

Good job! The mini is perfect in that location. I had cut out the rear and tucked it in even further. Mounted a small fan fore and aft for some circulation.

How do you find the heat in there?

I was going to duct some pipe into the compartment from the boot, and a 12V extractor fan to take out the warm air and dump it in the boot. Fans fore and aft sufficient?

Ground Loop Isolator arrived today. Should be able to get some time to test it this week..

Dean

Funnily enough, sooner than I expected. Might be heading through to Auckland. Normally bypass Hamilton :-), but I'm sure I could make a pitstop.

I want to know more about your louder Tacho Buzzer.

Males over 30 have problems hearing certain frequency ranges. Starts from about 18 years old in guys, our hearing goes downhill, especially in the mid-ranges. Ironically, the two things that are important are in the mid ranges....women's voices, and the RX-8 Tacho Buzzer. (SOME would argue that NOT hearing a female voice is good news).

Upshot is, I am profoundly deaf in one ear, and the other ear is rooted, so I am forever having the engine cut-out.

I want a louder buzzer, without too much hassle. How did ya do it?

Cheers

Dean

I hope it will be. This was a recent addition (winter project), so it hasn't been fully stress-tested in the heat of summer (here in the US). It will definitely be an improvement over doing nothing. I have a fan pulling air in from the cabin to the compartment. It's located in front of the compartment, between the cup holder and compartment. It's semi-automatic climate controlled by flipping up the cup holder lid :lol:. I have another mounted in the rear and duct to the trunk/boot. I'm hoping this will create enough circulation when I have the A/C on. The only thing I'm afraid of is the heat soak from the trunk/boot when the car is just sitting parked in the lot.

Cool. I was going to mount a solenoid in the cup holder, controlled by a temp switch. When it gets too warm, the cup lid pops up automatically, the fans kick in. We'll see.
As soon as I get the Ground Loop issue solved, I will start the permanent install stuff. Keep me posted on what you experience.

Dean

Photos of Cooling Systems and Centre Console Fit.
 

Ok, the ground loop isolator worked a treat. All alternator whine gone.

So...I started with the console build/fit.

The way I decided to go is this:

The pass-through box (the big 'pocket' on the back of the pass-through) was closed at the top, and a 12V High Flow Fan Mounted, to create a 'Vacuum Box.' I then used some 4cm Diameter Hose, running out the bottom of the box. (I am praying my wife doesn't notice that for some reason the Vacuum cleaner hose doesn't reach as far as it used to :-) )
The hose then runs to the back wall of the rear centre console compartment. Cool air is drawn in from the front latch, and in from the sides of the lid, and sucked out the back, into the boot.

My original plan was to use the extractor hose as a conduit for the cabling at the same time, but the odd shape of the mini's ports, the power on the far corner, and the low placement of the DVI port, meant more holes had to be drilled.

In the end, the cabling looked a bit ugly, especially with the airtight putty, so I made a textured black plastic cover for looks.... bonus is, this cover seems to improve cooling!

A small rocker switch was mounted in the cupholder compartment for the 'valet' feature of the Power Supply.

Next step is to finalise the pass-through box, by fabricating a 4th side of the vacuum box (i.e. so the air is only sucked in through the pipe and not the massive hole in the top! The last photo is a mock up of how the Power Supply will sit on top of the vacuum box.


http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans1.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans2.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans3.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans4.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans5.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/fans6.jpg

Finished.
 

Did a test drive tonight. Works so well, I must have done something wrong.

Will take pics of the completed install and some video.

Cheers

Dean

OK, now fly to Washington State and do mine. :)

Nice job and well done.

Ha! I was just thinking that myself.. I'd love to put in a Nav/MP3/Camera setup (the engine diagnostics are nice too but I know nothing about that kind of stuff)

I've always been afraid to even go to any of the local stereo shops for something like this, they couldn't even provide me with an Aux input years ago , ended up doing it myself.

Maybe we can convince Dean to write up a full part list, detailed instructions and pics of every step :) Hell I'd be willing to pay for instructions if they were detailed enough for a somewhat-techie to be able come complete/

When I am next in LA, I will drive up and help...of course I will take your leather handbrake handle at the same time.

Now...

The setup has been in and running for 3 weeks now (not including the week when I flooded the 8, and pulled out my hair trying to get it started. WILL NEVER short start AGAIN..EVER).
Funnily enough, without external cooling the Mac in the rear centre console seems to be running at normal temperatures. Its drawing enough air in under the lid, and expelling enough out the back of the tray (and the hole I made) to be normal...will keep an eye on it, and post further.

Some issues I am having...

I am mainly using front row (which is not touch screen compatible at the stage) using the remote...(well my wife is using the remote while I drive). Problem is the IR beam cant get to the mac when it is tucked away. I am going to extend the remote IR LED with a wire back to the mac...temporary, but it will work whilst on the look out for a front row touch screen mod.
I also need to check my jumper settings on my Carnetix, because the battery got drained after three days....(I'm sure I had the dead mans switch set, but perhaps not).

Apart from that, it looks awesome cruising down the motorway with the tech screen running (I've re-done it in red to match the red in-car displays).

I'm sure when I get a few moments (busy working on something at this moment) I can put together some instructions/diy type thingy.

Will post some video and pics of the unit and its operation shortly.

Cheers

Dean

Problem solved with controlling for the time being.

Generally, I don't go anywhere without my wife in the passenger seat, as the 8 is my weekend cruiser. By creating a wireless network on the Mac Mini, her iPhone can connect, and using the Apple Remote app, control the tunes.

I'm going to work on a usb hat switch for the steering wheel...which would be much better...

Man this is what i always wanted for my 8....cant wait for the DIY guide hope u can find some free time to do the DIY for this

man thats a great build! looks awesome ... did you get rid of the whine?

I have an Audio question...

How did you hook the Audio up to your stock HU.?? Does it have AUX jacks? Im kinda confused about how im going to set mine up.

Thanks,
Mark

You can take the opportunity to upgrade the Bose amp to something aftermarket.. an amp that would allow you to fully take advantage of all the channels the PC outputs.

That or you can go the simple route and use something like a grom audio unit that plugs into the back of the stock HU and gives you an aux line that you can use to just run to the PC.. that's what I did. I forgot the exact model, but you can check my thread/

Man seeing this work makes me really want to startup my project to install a Mac into a car. I started this project in my Accord, which required a lot of modification of the head unit faceplate, circuit board and everything. I ended up selling the car and all the components. Looks like the screen fits beautifully and what a beautiful location for the mini.

hey does any1 know if the sat nav dash would fit for both right hand drive n left hand?

I think it is the same

r u 100% sure? it look the same to me but im not 100% sure. if any1 know can u please let me know thank

How do u get the Rear view Cam to auto display on the screen when u put it in reverse gear?

I would avoid spamming threads...but to answer your question again...

its a function of the screen itself. it has an rca input that when it reads a signal from that input automatically switches to that channel...this is done simply by attaching the camera to this video input and the positive lead of the reverse lights...this will turn the camera on thus telling the screen to switch over.

thank for the help bro
sorry about the other post cuz it was an old thread thought no1 would read it

no beef glad to help

Can you elaborate on this a bit...I have a lilliput screen and wanted to jump it to the original board for the on off functionality...what exactly did you do here?

Hiya, I'm tied up on set for a few days, but will reply soon, and explain what I did.

CHeers

Deano

hey where did you run your power to the camera from...the reverse switch near the shifter or the reverse lights?

Go a link for this background? I cannot seem to find it.

Ok, it's been a while, but here's whats happened in the meantime...

I installed XP on the MacMini rather than the Native OSX...(sigh)..

The reason for this is that:

a) Garmin Mobile PC and USB Dongle are PC only...(sigh). Works a treat though.

b) OBDII and ScanTool...heaps more software for PC...

c) CentraFuse....just wish there was a Mac version...but it too runs super sweet.

Will post some pictures now my job for the year is finished and I have some spare time...

I'm glad to be on your team, sir.

Ok, it's been a while, but now filming is out of the way...

I have installed a momentary switch for the reverse camera, as the model of Lilliput I have does'nt have auto switching (i don't think!)...

The problem I am having at the moment is the 9 pin screw connector at the back of the unit... as the nav hood raises and lowers, the connection (never the best to start with) wiggles free and I get either some awesome colours going on, or a 'No Input Signal' message. I am going to take out the screen assembly and hard wire the connector and see if that helps.

I also have a non Nav Dash hood is mint condition if anyone is interested in buying it or swapping it for bits.

Been playing around last night with Centrafuse & Bluetooth...got my iPhone working fine on it, just need to source a decent USB mic...

All in all, the install is 99% complete...once done in the next week or so, I will post photos and perhaps a video or two of it all set up.

Cheers

Dean

Here is a quick pic of the momentary switch installed on the radio faceplate...the silver button...a quick push and the reverse camera comes on...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/dashcarbon.png

nice work!

Updates:

Software: DashCommand and Garmin are now integrated nicely into Centrafuse & the custom RX8 skin has been fine tuned and tweaked. I have also manually added all the NZ speed cameras and known speed traps to facilitate my safe driving...

Hardware: Apparently, the dicky 9 Pin Screw Connector on the back of the Lilliputs is a known issue, so out it comes, and the factory connector will be taken apart, and a nice fresh new connector will replace it. I was getting some interesting screen colour changes and the more than occasional 'no input signal' message... the 8 is unique in having the powered dash hood, and all the moving open and closed (and tilt) aren't kind to dodgy connections.

Also going to add an OBDII Port Power Kill switch so that the Scan Box is not always being powered when not driven. Having enough problems with drained battery without one more thing to sap the juice.

Aiming for next monday to do everything, and replace the spark plugs/airfilter/clean throttle body (new to the mehanical stuff on the 8) and all the computer stuff...will post pics of the final install of the carputer too.

Cheers

Dean

Go team carputer!

You install looks amazing but I have a small question which you may have covered and I just missed but what do you do about switching the system of is it a case of manual shut down like a regular pc through the OS or have you figured out a way of pressing a button and it immediately starts the shut down procedure.

Hiya Shifty.

The Carnetix (car power supply) has a cable called the 'Mac Pac' which allows the ignition to switch the mac on and off.

The way it works is, you open up the Mac, and add a very simple connector to the power button. That connector is fed out the back of the Mac through a ventilation slot. The power cable for the Carnetix to the mac has a little side cable that plugs into this new connection. When the ignition is turned on, the Carnetix sends a quick 'pulse' to the power switch, (in effect, pressing the power button) and turning on the Mac. When the ignition power is lost (i.e. ignition switched off)...the carnetix sends another pulse which presses the power button again, shutting down the Mac.

Now, I have this system, but with an extra twist... rather than being hooked up to the ignition directly, I have added a 'Valet' switch. When I eat out or am at the Casino, I don't want the Carputer switching while the Valet has the car...so under the dash I have installed a switch which runs of the ignition, to the carputer power supply. I normally leave the switch open daily, so it just runs off the 'key', but now I have the option of easily disabling too...

That help?

Once everything is up and running properly (i.e. all the bugs are out) I will post a DIY type thingy...most of this I am learning as I go along :-)

Better late than never.

100% The Nav hood fits either left or right hand drive cars. The more 'interchangeable' parts a car has for either, the cheaper is is to produce.

So the mac shuts down properly not just cuts off is that what your saying.

Diy thread would be excellent im desperate to do this not sure il use a mac il probably put something together from salvaged pc,s from work but all the guys who have done this only give bits of detail no how to guides.

That's right. Pressing to power button tells Windows (agh!) to shut down properly and safely.

My original intention was to run Mac OS, but realistically, the software just isn't there.

A Mac Mini (an Intel one, so you can run Windows) is a great one shot solution...and they can be picked up pretty cheap second hand. It's all there. They come with WiFi, Bluetooth, etc all built in in a tidy little box.

I am so close to the finish line that it's not funny... after working on this on and off for about two years... learning as I go... will defiantly post a DIY for those who want to have a crack at it. I will always be around to lend a hand with any advice too. Anything under the bonnet though, I don't have a clue...my good mate helps me out with that side of things :-)

So, I have ripped everything out, and re-wiring the lot to remove any of the bugs..

This picture is of the dodgey 9 Pin Din parts (male & female)

http://www.deanknowsley.com/part1.jpg

Rewiring one of the cables ends...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/part2.jpg

The same wire after the new connectors have been wired up and soldered. Much more secure fittings.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/part3.jpg

Testing the connection..photo of the Dash Command screen...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/part4.jpg

Finally, the Centrafuse skin I modified for the RX8...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/part5.jpg

Starting putting it all back into the car...have a little trouble with the Nav Hood, the connectors have come lose, and lost calibration.. will get on that tomorrow.

Apart from that, all wiring now in the car, connections soldered, covered in insulation tape.. set up a cut off switch for the OBD II port, so it doesn't drain the battery whilst connected to the ELM327 (when the car is off).

More pics to come. About a week from being totally finished and wrapped up, all being well.