Ah ok, cool. I've always known them as PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards...).

Its the control PCB from the OEM Screen. I have retained it to control the motion of the Nav Screen, i.e. Open, Tilt, Memory, Illumination.

I am using a 1.83GHz Mac Mini (Intel) with 2 GB of RAM for the final install. I have others to play around with. When I am doing anything potentially risky, I use my old G4 ibook, just in case...

My AuxMod arrived yesterday (a surprise birthday present from my wife (amoung other things...!!)) which fitted straight in and works very well. The remaining pieces are all lined up, so when I have some free time next week, they will be assembled in the final configuration.

The Boot box is coming along nicely. I have a craft-wood (MDF) prototype built, that I will test in the boot with the 2 fans, to see what sort of heat is going on in there... too much heat means I will rethink the Mac placement, possibly in the pass through. (I still prefer the boot recess, so I can use my Mac Pro Aluminum Lid).

More photos will be posted soon, perhaps even a video of the hooked up set up on the desk.

Cheers

Dean

so if you got the original PCB, why did you have to change anything with it to make the buttons work? And did u do any hardware mods? or just reflashed some chips on it?? Im finishing up a transaction to get my dash, and I would like all functions to work... (I have all other items ready...) Can you give a little insight on how you got it to work with an aftermarket TFT?

Thanks!

1) My car never came with OEM Nav, so the wiring loom wasn't present in the car. This required making my own pin connector for the back of the Nav Unit.

2) The Motor/Button Control PCB is integrated with the factory LCD...three PCBs sandwiched on the back of the factory LCD screen. I have discarded the factory LCD, yet retained the control PCB from the LCD assembly.

No flashing or hardware modification is needed...its just knowing what pins control what...

Dean

o wow thats pretty interesting... have you posted the correct DIN's anywhere online? If so, can you link us please?

I will post first thing in the morning (NZ time) with pictures and the PIN inputs..

Dean

AMAZING!!!
Thanks alot buddy!! Should be starting a project as soon as I get my hands on a dash... Will keep you posted!

Better late than never....
 

Okay, as promised...

The first is a diagram of the pins, and what to connect to what to get the hood motion and illumination working as factory.
For pure simplicity, I recommend you buy some female pin connectors and heat shrink pipe from RadioShack/Tandy/JayCar/Maplins (or whatever your local electronic shop that sells all kinds of crap is called). Hook up the Illumination + (Yellow on my diagram and pic) to its pin, and then connect that to the Ashtray Illumination + (Red/Yellow wire on my 2003, with BOSE), so that your Nav Hood lights will go on with the headlights and the rest of your interior lights.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/pins.jpg

This picture is an actual pic of my connections, looking from behind and underneath, if the Hood is the right way up (i.e. as it would be positioned in the car).

http://www.deanknowsley.com/pinspic.jpg

Hope that helps.

Deano

Word of caution, if you hook up the battery (constant +12v) to both pin 1Q and 1O, the navigation board will always be on, EVEN when the car is completely off. This can drain the battery and the screen won't automatically close when the car is turned off or auto-open when on. From my testing the circuitry doesn't draw very much power when on and the OEM LCD is not plugged in, but it is still significantly more than when it's wired correctly and the car is off.. Wire 1O (ACC) should go to your accessory/ignition line. Since you're already going to the cig lighter for button illumination, why not just pull the ACC line from there as well?

Yes, my bad.

That diagram, and the explanation was based on my workbench set up, i.e. both positives going to the power supply (as well as the Illumination wire).

The ACC pin should of course be wired to the Accessories circuit of the car when installed.

Ta for pointing that out.

Dean

Any tips on getting the Lilliput to switch on when the hood lifts up? I was going to put a pressure switch behind the casing that was depressed when the hood was in the raised position, which then allowed power to the screen. Is there a simpler way?

Actually there is, kind of.. It all depends on your preference. There should be a hidden menu that allows the screen to automatically power up when the computer is turned on. Type 588998 on the remote and there should be an option for auto-power. I know this works for a 629, but I believe a 619 is the exact same screen just the connector is in a different spot. I don't know how well it works as I've never used it. This will only turn the screen on when the PC is powered up, so if you close the screen while you're driving for instance- you'll have to remember to use the remote so it's not on while in the dash. I'm also not sure if the screen turns off when the PC turns off (power light is red) or goes to sleep (power light is orange) alz0rz uses this method, maybe he'll have more information. It also depends on your power source to the monitor, I have mine on an ACC line so it kills power as soon as I turn the car off. I built a custom circuit using a microcontroller to allow the screen to turn on and off without the hidden menu and everytime it flipped up or down, even while driving. I never thought about a pressure switch and have no idea how easy that would be to implement if you wanted to go that route.

I can picture a pressure switch working, but i havent been under that dash so I wouldnt know where to mount one... I would make sure the switch is a NH (normally high) switch not a NL(normally low) switch... This way, as long as the button isnt pushed, current will pass through and power the screen. As soon as the button is pushed, the power is disconnected... That way u can mount it where the trim of the LCD closes and itll turn off wenever the screen is shut... I think the software method is alot better though if it works...

It does. I got it to work on my 629 using the firmware menu.

Alz0rz, can you talk me through how you got the screen to power on and off as the hood goes up and down.....

Ta

Dean

i think they screen powers off and on as the COMPUTER goes on and off.. depending on wether or not you are receiving a signal through your VGA cable from ur computer... If you ARE receiving a signal, the screen goes on, if you ARENT, then the screen goes off... This is a function on many monitors, where if you PC goes into standby, it stops outputting signals from the VGA and the monitor can detect that there is nothing being recieved, so it just switches the monitor off/standby... How this is done with a lilliput I wouldnt know... (the firmware menu that they have been talking about is the way to do it I believe...)

The screen does go on and off with the the Mac, however, as I will not always be using the screen, and the hood may be down, I want the screen to be off then too...but have it spring to life when the screen raises...

New Video....
 

I've solved the problem....

I just put two contacts in. One on the moving hood, and one on the frame. When the hood is open, the contacts are touching, suppling power to the screen...., when the hood closes, the contact breaks, and the power is disconnected....

yay.

Busy making a video of the new Quartz Composer for the Music Vizualiser....Spinning silver 8, with track name, artist and artwork...as well as a music spectrum...

heres a quick preview....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZlY0LyE6M


Let me know what you think...

Deano

the 2 contacts makes sense... the link isnt working though! got a new one? or perhaps upload it to utube?

You tube added....click above or here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZlY0LyE6M

I love the spinning 8! I've been looking at mini/nano/pico atx boards, trying to figure out where I'm going to put my carputer. Would a mac mini fit in the center console or in the back seat removable trunk access panel?

The mini would fit (just) in the pass through box between the rear seats.

Now, onto an epic fail.

The OEM PCB blew today, meaning I lost all OEM button functions (tilt, open) etc.

I went ahead and built the circuit described on another thread, and that worked a treat...the only pain in the arse being that you have to hold the open button until the hood opens all the way. Trying to figure away around that now...

Fingers crossed I can come up with a solution.

Yikes! What happened? So we can learn from your bad luck :(

Also, I'm not sure which circuit you built, but I think there's a thread around here somewhere where they interfaced a microcontroller to an H-bridge and were able to get full open / close / tilt functionality. Here's a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UtPBqGrB_k

I've made a replacement controller, all the details are here:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/oem-navigation-hood-retrofit-carputer-application-140504/page2/
Post #50 has the important information if you don't want to read about my progress, lol.

Youtube video of mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhy2yOsaKNg

Another member using the controller:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOEqt...&feature=email

Are you sure the OEM PCB "blew"? What exactly happened? I learned a good amount reverse engineering the OEM board to build the controller.

ditto.. how did you "blow" it? chainu is your only hope!

It was all working fine, exactly like factory. Then I left it for a day... decided to test it again....hooked up the power...and nothing. The motor sort of twitched (in the closed position) and then that was it. I double checked all my connections... made sure the ribbon cable was seated properly, not broken, seated correctly. I checked my power wiring, all going to the correct pins...the illumination was working fine...checked the motor wires, all good.....it was just dead. Tried everything for about 3 hours with no joy, (and it was working perfectly the day before....)...

The only remote possibility is that a powered wire may have brushed the OEM PCB when I moved it...but I'm fairly sure the power was off at that point, but I have been known to be wrong.

Chainu, I looked at your information on post #50, awesome, but I fear that is WAY over my head. Okay, maybe making the PCB is do-able, but programing etc etc is beyond me. Unless you are selling completed boards, then looks like I will make do with the jerry rig I have hooked up....

Alzorz, I PM'd you re some questions about Dash Command and CentraFuse too...let me know how you did it if you get a moment....

Ta

You may have just lost calibration/alignment.. did you by chance take the inner "pod" that holds the screen and swivels out of the larger surrounding dash piece? If it becomes uncalibrated, the motor will close the screen (sometimes part-way, sometimes all the way) but it will not be able to reopen the screen. This could explain the motor twitching.

I'll try to explain calibrating the best I can:
Make sure that the white plug with three wires on the inside next to the gears/motor is firmly plugged in and try hooking it back up with everything put together. Take out that black gear that connects the pod and the dash piece, and actually holds the screen in place. It's easier to do before you put the pod back in. With it all put together and connected, try the open button again a few times. If the rod that the black gear was connected to spins, you're in business. When the rod spins counterclockwise, the screen is going from open to close and when it spins clockwise the screen would be opening. If I remember, you can only access the gear in one extreme position (all the way open or close).. so just make sure the motor did the spin for the correct direction, and make sure you're either holding the screen all the way up or it's all the way down and push that black gear in from the side (no need to take it all apart again)

If that doesn't work, PM me ;)

No need to keep that exchange private! I am also interested in how Alz0rz did it :)

Well F me, it worked.

I had to remove the little three pin connector from the motor to get anything to happen, then the motor started spinning when the button was pressed. Hooked up the three pin, the motor started behaving like it should, put the cog on the rod, and it works...

Thanks a million

Progress update...
 

Okay, after some trial runs, the boot is proving WAY too hot.

A bit of a rethink was needed, and I came up with an alternative. I stripped down an iBook and it fits perfectly under the passenger seat held in with velcro straps.

With the screen removed, the iBook can breathe and dissipate heat sufficiently. I removed the 'sleep' LED, so it can be extended and mounted in the dash (to get that really cool slow pulsing glow)

The power supply performs the same shutdown/sleep functions as it does with the mac mini... and there is an added advantage of the iBook having the battery back-up when its asleep.

No bluetooth in the iBook was overcome with a D-LINK dongle. Lilliput is connected via a Mini-VGA to VGA adaptor.

Heres a photo after the screen has been removed...

http://www.deanknowsley.com/slim.jpg

A number of us did warn you, but it's awesome you're adapting and moving on. At some point you'll have to provide us a pricetag as I know Apple hardware isn't cheap.

Annoying, yet fruitful.
 

I loaded my Mac Based GUI onto the ibook today, and yay, it doesn't work well at all. The iBook just doesn't have enough grunt. It can run iTunes fine, but not the visualisers and reversing camera...which is annoying....

By chance, I was pulling apart a G5 PowerMac today and came across some awesomely powerful yet small 12v blowers....

I then took the Mac Mini out to the car and set about looking for places that it would fit into, that I could duct air into....and voila! The rear centre compartment!

Sooooo.... the project has taken another 90º turn in 24 hours! The Mac Mini will now sit in the centre console compartment in the rear...the cables disappearing into the boot....through some carefully drilled holes... Along with some holes drilled for air to escape from on the rear inner face of the compartment. A blower will sit in the cup holder compartment, and blow air through some ducting through into the rear centre compartment. The blower will be on a temp switch, so theoretically it should only kick in once things start to cook. A small solenoid on the same switch will 'pop' open the cup holder lid about an inch to allow lots of air in....

Photos to follow...

Do you have the stock exhaust still? I'm wondering if switching to a dual muffler exhaust with small mufflers, something like the MS dual-can would help decrease trunk temperatures.
Also, what's the average daily high temp where you live?

Have you taken care of getting audio into the stereo yet? I've also been having trouble finding current info on aux in adapters (that aren't iPod specific,) for the 8.

One of these days I may get around to try integrating a car PC, but I've got a few projects to get out of the way first.

Water cool it!

Sorry for the lack of news, was waiting on bits and pieces to arrive, and has work issues.

Quick You Tube now the Lilliput is in the Nav hood and the electrics are working. Screen saver is running. Let me know what you think...

Deano

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhH5vbWlNiI

That's awsome, the mounting where did you hide the board? Or did you attach it to the back of the screen itself?

The board is separate. I extended all the wires, and put the board into a plastic casing which is tucked away safely under the dash.

Thats a damn good idea.

Im looking for a navhood to finish mine and just wanted to know how you mounted the screen in there. If you used clips, or if you used something different?

I'll post some pictures in the next day or two.

The Lilliput fits in the hood like a glove. I put it in, used sheets of thin card to 'wedge' it in, then folded the metal surround tabs over to hold it in place.
Then liberal amounts of gaffer tape to make sure it stays put....

More Pics of Build.
 

Ok, quick photo post...

Here are a few pics of the build...

there are some of the mechanism to get the screen to switch off when the hood is in the 'down' position. Basically, when the hood is down, the contacts touch, completing the circuit, powering a relay, which switches the monitor off. The hood has some little flanges/stoppers which suit this purpose brilliantly. A bit of hot glue to hold everything in place, and voila! Works a treat. Press open, and the screen comes on.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood1.jpg

Here is a screen test, hooking up a mac to the screen....

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood2.jpg

Lilliput in the Nav Hood

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood3.jpg

The lower part of the Nav Hood, external, with wire glued in place

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood4.jpg

Inside, with metal contact in place on stopper.

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood5.jpg

Upper hood part, external, wiring,

http://www.deanknowsley.com/hood6.jpg

Contact on stopper, upper hood part.

The kit is ready to go into the 8 now...just sorting out the mac mini.

Will need to pick someones brains on the Carnetix 1900 hook-up, a few things are bugging me...but thats a bit later.

I got an AuxMod in the end. It seems to work brilliantly. No dramas.

Do you have the MacPac from Carnetix? From what I hear it makes life much easier.

Yep, I got the MacPac.

My questions revolve around wiring the 1900 into the car...do I need to beef up any wires, or does it drop straight into the ACC circuit?

nav hood removal?
 

anyone know a good DIY for removing the nav hood?

THANKS A F_ LOT - Major Set Back
 

Picture speaks a thousand words....

http://www.deanknowsley.com/thanks.jpg

http://www.deanknowsley.com/thanks2.jpg

Needless to say the project is set back substantially. I really hope they know they have just forfeited their lives.

Holy hell, you do not have good luck with break-ins and door dings eh..

I guess its time for that good ole security system!
I hope they didn't find everything, what did they get exactly?

Problem is...
 

Problem is, I DO have a good ol' alarm system!

They smashed the window, found they couldn't open the door (thanks deadlock feature), so they scratched the f*** out of the side of the door with their belt buckles leaning in and ransacking the centre console and glove compartment.

They didnt get away with much, just my driving sunglasses, my wifes sunglasses, an iPhone cradle, and a some bits an pieces of shite.

It was more the taking the time to get the window fitted that annoyed me

So your carpc components weren't touched eh?

Similar thing happened to me a few years ago when I had a BMW. Passenger door window got smashed in with a chunk of cinder block, but only after they missed once and put a big dent in the upper door frame. Door still wouldn't open, so they made off with my 4 year old backpack (had a notebook in it,) and all the quarters out of my change holder. They did about $1300 of damage for a $3 score.