KYLiquid

So I installed my sub, some of you saw/heard it at the meets. It wont rattle the block as you drive around town, but it adds great low end punch you can hear and feel in the car. Compliments the stock Bose system well. $200 shipped and then another 25 for the wire and stuff I needed. Installed it myself in about 2 hrs.

I wanted the install to look as factory as possible, not like an after market system. I also wanted to try to leave as much space in the trunk as I could. The sub can also mount vertical, but I felt it would hit harder and sound better how it is. I adjusted the sub, and tuned it to my taste and then mounted it, so I could hide all the wires and everything.

Shinka_518

Man, I've got one sitting in the garage....Still haven't gotten around to installing it.

Looks nice!!

518!

swoope

iTrader: (5)

havent you been the bussy little beaver today. looks very good cant wait to hear it.

beers

woodysjh

Does it have its own amp? so do you have to run power to it ?(kinda a stupid question) Just interested, please can you give us some more information?

bureau13

Yeah, the Infinity Basslink is a powered sub. I have one too, and I'm very happy with it.

jds

KYLiquid

like burea13 said, the sub is a 10" sealed box with a 10" passive sub, so even though its really only 1 - 10" sub, the other 10" cone allows it to move more air, letting it reach deeper tones and have better response! It has a built in 200watt amp that is perfectly matched to the sub.

All you have to do is run power (+ and -) to it and a remote on (or use its auto sensing on, i went for the remote on) and then a line level input (or rca, I went with line lvl).

I rain a 8 gauge wire from the battery to the back of the car, then taped off the frame of the car in the back for my ground. I used the rear cigaret lighter for the remote on, and ran a line level in from the am in the bakc of the car under the rear shelf. It was a minimum of running wires (really only the power wire was the hard one) and it was all done pretty easy.

You cant see any wires anywhere, even under the hood, I made it so the battery cover hides everything. So its a totaly stealth install!

XDEEDUBBX

clean and simple..

Rotary Rasp

iTrader: (2)

^ what he said

rx8spiritR

i have a infinity sub too, but i have NO IDEA on how to install it, can you explain a little bit more on how to get this done, and what other parts do i need? i am stock with no bose.

RichardK

Can't you tap the rear amp for a remote-on signal? I would be inclined to make a loom which went between the amp and sub - plug amp connector into loom and loom into amp, and have the necessary wires tapped off for connection to the sub.

I could be wrong about what connectors are on the amp, so I'm not saying it SHOULD be done this way, I'm just wondering if it would be easier.

(When the standard 'surround sound' head unit in my Sera died, I made up a custom loom to connect off-the-shelf head units to the Toyota wiring - I get sick of finding cars where people chop up the wiring to fit radios! As a result, I can use the currently redundant centre speaker for navigation if I modify a car mount accordingly, or my ultimate plan which is to fit a Kenwood DDX double-din DVD headunit and dolby-digital decoder; the Sera's factory surround sound setup will become REAL surround sound! I'd need to upgrade the feeble amp/sub though).

Imidazole

Did you just tap its audio input to one of the rear speakers?

Imidazole

Scratch my post.

After doing a bit of research, I see that the amp is right next to the rear speakers. That will allow you to tap the preouts (before the amp) or the amplified outs (At the speakers) if you wish.

(Preout is the better choice.)

KYLiquid

for the input to the sub, i taped the pre-amp signal for the rear left and right speakers, I wired that into the sub, it has a built in crossover, so it filters out all but the lower frequencys.

For power I ran 8AWG wire from the + battery terminal to the rear of the car, I drilled and tapped a hole and put a #12 bolt in it and made my - ground of that. I used the power off the rear cig lighter for my remote on. You could go off the amp, and I wanted to, but I had a hard enought time diging thru the rats nest of wires for the audio signal.

Bottom line, its a clean, simple install. No buzzing or poping from the sub, no interference. The cars audio now sounds great, and it looks almost factory.

I am thinking of using a dremel to cut some kind of port fromt he trunk to the cabin. I think I will make it in the pass-thru cover. To allow more of the low end heard frequencys to pass thru into the cabin.

I bolted the sub down with 4 sheet metal screws. So its firmly mounted to the car. I have been thru 2 autox events and lots of street driving and the sub hasnt moved at all. The firm mounting also allows more of the felt bass to pass into your ****!

Jer

You hit the nail on the head when you said it compliments the Bose system well. I installed mine a few months back, and couldn't be happier. It just extends the bass response lower than stock, and blends well, not like a pounding low end. It's more of a "realistic" bass. Mine is vertical, firing forward, and has balanced in perfectly.

I just have to find a good place for the remote. It's currently loose, in the center console. I expect to mount it through the blank panel where the cassette player would be. I've saved that task for "phase two", when I mount my AudioLink, AuxMod, iPod, and XM head unit.

Wish I had a little more space. I hate thinking I'm going to have to sacrifice the cupholders. I like drinking.

"Phase one" was the back part of the car - installing the Basslink and running the XM antenna back into the "Shinka position" on the trunklid.